Building a multi-purpose XJ rear bumper By Jeff Ayers

---

Rear Bumper

• Features I included in my custom built bumper:
• Low cost – owner fabricated
• Tight to body – good departure angle, aesthetically clean, follows bodylines
• Air storage ability
• Winch mount
• Swing out tire carrier
• Swing out water/gas can carrier

I built my bumper from 2x6x3/16 rectangular tubing. For mounting, I welded short extensions of 2x4x3/16 rectangular tubing at right angles to the back of the bumper to line up with the factory trailer hitch rear most mounting holes. A piece of ¼" plate was then welded to the back of the 2x4 to act as a mounting plate against the factory bumper mounts on the body. This plate was drilled for the four mounting bolts per side. In addition, a hole was drilled in the bottom of the 2x4 extensions that lines up with the factory trailer hitch mounting holes. The factory nut strap for the trailer hitch was then slightly modified to sandwich the 2x4 extensions for another bumper mounting point. The factory nuts on the back side of the bumper mounting area were all removed and a 1/8" backing plate with bolts and nuts was used to mount the bumper in the four outer factory holes. Two additional support pieces made of 1/8" steel were used on the inner four bumper mounting holes. Once mounted, the ends of the bumper tubing were cut to match the bodylines and plates of ¼" steel welded in place to finish the ends. The area under the taillights was then filled with various pieces of 1/8" steel. All the welds were ground smooth to give a finished look to the bumper. The bumper could now have an air inlet installed for compressed air storage although I haven’t done that yet.

Peripherals:
The design called for a swing out arm on either end with a removable winch mount in the middle. The swing out arms were built from 2x4x3/16 rectangular tubing. The hinge ends use 2"x1/4" tubes into which 1 ½ " x 1/8" wall oil impregnated brass bushings are pressed. The hinge pins are 1 ¼" solid steel mounted to tabs welded to the bumper. Each hinge pin is mounted to the tabs with two bolts top and bottom to prevent the pin from rotating. The latch for each arm incorporates a ½" pin that is spring loaded and pokes into a hole drilled into the hinge pin to hold the arms in their open position. The actual latch for the arms is made from a modified GM Blazer factory swing out spare carrier latch. These latches were fairly expensive, but looked like they would work well for me. I also used two rubber bumper devices per side from this carrier to put tension on the latch when closed. The handle that I fashioned is made from an implement pin and rides on nylon bushings in the swing arms. This handle is bolted to a lever sandwiched within the swing arm. Rods attach the lever to the latch on one end and the pin on the other end. Finally, the latch closes on a pin welded to the bumper via two tabs.

The tire carrier is mounted on the left rear swing arm and is made of 2x2x1/4" stock. I placed it there because I felt that the area of the rear window that got blocked would be directly behind my head, which is a fairly dead area anyway. It mounts the tire high enough to clear on departure angle and slightly angled to look aesthetically pleasing. A CB antenna mount was added to place a whip in a protected location although probably not the best RF location. Also, a 1 ¼" receiver hitch mount was welded inside the actual tire mount to mount a removable lawn chair carrier.

The water/gas can carrier was designed to be removable and the final design incorporated a removable mount for a 5lb-propane cylinder too. I originally wanted to carry two water/gas cans, but the leverage all this weight would place on the bumper mounting points made me reconsider. The can carrier is made mostly of 1x1x1/8" or 1x2x1/8" tubing and bolts to the right rear swing arm.

The detachable winch mount that I envision is yet to be built (since I don’t own a winch anyway) and the license plate hold down system is pretty hokey but works for now. Also, a proper paint job or powder coating is definitely needed.

Hindsight:
If I were to do this again, I would probably do a few things differently. The oil impregnated bushing in the tire carrier seized up during the first winters use. I disassembled the whole hinge, cleaned all parts, installed a grease fitting and reassembled the unit. It works well so far, but there is quite a bit more play in the hinge and the tire can move around and rattle some now. Next time I would look into using a small hub with tapered roller bearings and grease seals for the hinge. I would probably make the bumper deeper and mount the spindle pointing up just behind the taillight. The hinge would then swing on top of the bumper. I don’t know what type of latch I would use. Although my bumper blends very well with the bodylines, I think having it extend past the body could provide more protection for the rear quarter panel. Also, the end caps could possibly extend along the lower rear quarter panels almost to the flare for more protection. Tomken machines bumper ends do extend past the body, but I think they look kind of cheesy. I think they would look better if they more closely matched the bodylines.