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Many
of the base model XJs come with a dash that has a large speedometer,
a large gas gauge, and warning lights that are supposed to let you know
if something is wrong. These lights are not very reliable. In this article
I will cover how to swap in a gauge cluster in place of the “idiot lights”,
so that you can better see if something is not right under your hood.
You also get the addition of a tachometer and a trip counter.
Specifically,
I will cover the install on my ’96 Cherokee SE. There are many changes
that happened to the XJ’s gauge package over the years. I will try to
cover differences so this article will be useful with any year.
What you
need:
For
my ’96, I needed a package from a ’91–’96 XJ, which are completely
electronic. ’84–’90 packages are also interchangeable. They
are electronic except for a speedometer cable connection. ’84–’86
and ’87–’90 use two different speedometer cables, so you will
need the upper cable from the donor vehicle if you want to swap
these years. You can also get it from Mopar, only $10. The ’97–’01
XJs also use an electronic setup, however it is a completely
different style from the previous years. I got my gauges from
a local scrap yard for $50. This is a pretty good price; they
usually go for $75-$100. You can buy them new, however they
are rather expensive.
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For mine,
I also needed a new oil pressure sending unit, and a new coolant
temperature sending unit. This is necessary for all ’84-’96 XJs.
’97+ will work with the original senders. You can go to a Jeep
dealership and get Mopar original replacements (what I did), or
go to your local auto parts store for aftermarket replacements.
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Installation:
NOTE: this applies for ’84–’96 models with the 4.0L engine. 97+ models
or other motors may be different.
1.
Remove the dash. There are four Phillips head screws, all facing up.
There are also some clips around the dash, including by the radio, and
the heater vent on the right. Go around and pull straight out. If you
have a ’95 or newer, you also need to remove the steering column cover
to remove the dash bezel. To do that you need a T15 Torx driver.
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2. Remove
the gauges. There are 6 Phillips head screws holding it down,
all easily visible. After you pull it away, unhook the 2 connectors,
and the speedometer cable (if applicable).
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3.
Install new gauges. Do exactly what you did to take the old one out
in reverse order.
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4. Install
new senders. The oil pressure sender is located above the oil
filter. Just unhook the wire, unscrew the sender, and install
the new sender. NOTE: several people who have done this have had
problems with the old sender breaking off. It would be a good
idea to have an extractor handy.
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5. The temperature
sender you need to change is located in the back of the engine
block, beside the valve cover, to the driver’s side. Just remove
the connector, unscrew it, and install the new one. It is not
necessary to change the sender on the front of the engine, because
this one is for the computer, and does not affect the gauges.
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After
you’ve done all that, your new gauges should work.
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Since you
are installing a new odometer with your gauge package, you should
find a local speedometer shop to change your new one to match
your old one. The shop I went to changed it in 5 min (I removed
it for him), and only charged me $10. Some other places charge
more, and do the legal paper work stating that there was a change.
I was not concerned about that, since I will probably run this
Jeep until it is dead.
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The
only other problem I had was after I put in the new gauges, I realized
the plastic panel that covers the gauge mechanics was gray, while my
dash was black. I didn’t like the difference, so I took the plastic
cover off the old package, and placed it in the new one. I had to drill
a hole for the trip meter reset switch; otherwise they are exactly the
same.
Good
Luck and enjoy your new dash!
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