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	<title>Comments on: Replacing your rear main seal</title>
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	<description>Welcome to the new site!  As you can see, a lot has changed finally.  The new site is up and running, along with our third revamped photo gallery.  I&#039;m sure there are still some bugs lingering about, so if you run across any problems, please let me know.</description>
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		<title>By: Steve in Toronto</title>
		<link>http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/comment-page-1#comment-1948</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve in Toronto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:03:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeepin.net/?p=105#comment-1948</guid>
		<description>***WARNING!!!!-INSTALL PAN GASKET TO BLOCK WITH ADHESIVE AND A FEW BOLTS PLACED AROUND TO KEEP GASKET FROM FALLING ONLY!!****
It took me 3 gaskets -jugs of oil on the driveway(what a mess)and allot of four letter words!!!!to finally realize that it could not be done with the gasket on the pan.The back &quot;U&quot; would not seat right and would get pinched when putting the pan up(THIS IS NOT EASY WHEN YOU ARE LAYING ON THE GROUND BY YOURSELF!!)The back of the gasket at the seal side would not seat right and after the 4th attempt poured out of the back of the engine after starting her up.There was no other way!!
To keep this long and sad story short.
I will think twice before I go to change my rear seal on my 95 Cherokee Sport.I still have nightmares to this day and it will forever haunt me for the rest of my life.
Did I mention about removing the sump from the pump in order for the pan to clear there as well????I jacked mine from the frame-Dropped the axle as far as it would go--and still there was no room for that sucker to come out-so while you balance the pan on your chest -you will have to remove the sump from the pump and remember that it only goes one way on and off.Then I was able to maneuver the pan out of my @#$%&amp;^ way!!.
If I did something wrong -PLEASE let me know!!!--if not ---LET THIS BE A WARNING TO YOU BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE REAR SEAL ON A CHEROKEE 4.0L-GOOD LUCK!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>***WARNING!!!!-INSTALL PAN GASKET TO BLOCK WITH ADHESIVE AND A FEW BOLTS PLACED AROUND TO KEEP GASKET FROM FALLING ONLY!!****<br />
It took me 3 gaskets -jugs of oil on the driveway(what a mess)and allot of four letter words!!!!to finally realize that it could not be done with the gasket on the pan.The back &#8220;U&#8221; would not seat right and would get pinched when putting the pan up(THIS IS NOT EASY WHEN YOU ARE LAYING ON THE GROUND BY YOURSELF!!)The back of the gasket at the seal side would not seat right and after the 4th attempt poured out of the back of the engine after starting her up.There was no other way!!<br />
To keep this long and sad story short.<br />
I will think twice before I go to change my rear seal on my 95 Cherokee Sport.I still have nightmares to this day and it will forever haunt me for the rest of my life.<br />
Did I mention about removing the sump from the pump in order for the pan to clear there as well????I jacked mine from the frame-Dropped the axle as far as it would go&#8211;and still there was no room for that sucker to come out-so while you balance the pan on your chest -you will have to remove the sump from the pump and remember that it only goes one way on and off.Then I was able to maneuver the pan out of my @#$%&amp;^ way!!.<br />
If I did something wrong -PLEASE let me know!!!&#8211;if not &#8212;LET THIS BE A WARNING TO YOU BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE REAR SEAL ON A CHEROKEE 4.0L-GOOD LUCK!!</p>
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		<title>By: Sam</title>
		<link>http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/comment-page-1#comment-1783</link>
		<dc:creator>Sam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Mar 2012 12:39:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeepin.net/?p=105#comment-1783</guid>
		<description>Hi,

Mine is a 2,5 TDI 1997 with 250,000 kms on the clock and my experience is exactly the same - workshops just fill up with a high viscosity 05-15 fully synthetic and then the troubles start. Why does no one tell them. We all know. Right?
Thanks for the tip about the auto trans stop leak. This will be my last chance before having to change the seal. I am already on a 15-50 mineral oil with Castrol Stop Leak additive, and the leak just keeps on.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi,</p>
<p>Mine is a 2,5 TDI 1997 with 250,000 kms on the clock and my experience is exactly the same &#8211; workshops just fill up with a high viscosity 05-15 fully synthetic and then the troubles start. Why does no one tell them. We all know. Right?<br />
Thanks for the tip about the auto trans stop leak. This will be my last chance before having to change the seal. I am already on a 15-50 mineral oil with Castrol Stop Leak additive, and the leak just keeps on.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Chlee</title>
		<link>http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/comment-page-1#comment-1744</link>
		<dc:creator>Chlee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:51:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeepin.net/?p=105#comment-1744</guid>
		<description>For my 92 Sport (2WD and zero lift), in order to get the pan out I had to unbolt the shocks at the bottom, remove the oil pump (to me was easier than just the screen), and cut the exhaust pipe pre-cat in order to drop it after the Y. How anyone else does this without all this work is beyond me, drove me nuts!.  Both pieces of the seal were as hard as rock after 106k miles.  Used a nail punch on the upper piece to start the process of removing until could use the pliers, insuring I placed it on the wire contained within the seal before striking.  The comment to use the breaker bar on the balancer when installing is gold. Used the nail punch on the last quarter inch. If possible, degrease/power wash the entire area before starting this project, it&#039;s messy.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For my 92 Sport (2WD and zero lift), in order to get the pan out I had to unbolt the shocks at the bottom, remove the oil pump (to me was easier than just the screen), and cut the exhaust pipe pre-cat in order to drop it after the Y. How anyone else does this without all this work is beyond me, drove me nuts!.  Both pieces of the seal were as hard as rock after 106k miles.  Used a nail punch on the upper piece to start the process of removing until could use the pliers, insuring I placed it on the wire contained within the seal before striking.  The comment to use the breaker bar on the balancer when installing is gold. Used the nail punch on the last quarter inch. If possible, degrease/power wash the entire area before starting this project, it&#8217;s messy.</p>
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