Installation
date: 10/16/99
Installation:
 |
The first
things to do are to remove the front and rear driveshafts. You'll
need an 8mm socket to do this. Now remove the front yoke from
the t'case (be careful, the nut is on very tight, airtools would
definitely be good here). The JB kit comes with new rubber washer/seals,
so don't worry if yours gets mangled getting the yoke off (mine
did). You
may need to pry on the u-joints a bit to get them to separate
from the yokes. Also, when you remove the rear driveshaft, there
will be some gear lube in the driveshaft yoke, so watch out,
you don't want to pour it out on your head. ;)
|
|
Next drain
the oil from the t'case. Removing the upper fill plug allows
the oil to drain out much faster, and besides, you have to remove
the fill plug anyway.
|
|
 |
Next unbolt
and remove the speedometer gear housing. Then unplug the housing
from the speedo cable and set the housing aside.
Important:
Make a note of the exact position/rotation of the gear housing,
you will need this for reference when you reinstall the speedo
gear housing. There are number ranges
on the housing, write down which number range is facing
down.
|
| Now unbolt
the tail extension housing and pry it from the rear of the t'case.
As you can see, there will be oil in the extension housing... |
 |
 |
Now you'll
have to remove the lockring from the output shaft so you can remove
the tail housing bearing carrier. This is where that pair of lockring
pliers comes in. It's possible to use external-snapring pliers,
but lockring pliers make the job much easier and less frustrating. |
| Next unbolt
the rear bearing carrier and pry it from the back half of the
t'case. There are six 15mm bolts holding the carrier on. You'll
have to use a socket extension to get to some of the bolts if
you've left the t'case on your rig. These bolts will be replaced
with metric hex-bolts supplied in the JB kit. |
 |
 |
This is
what the t'case will look like after removing the rear bearing
carrier. That plate on the output shaft is part of the infamous
NP231 oil "pump". At this point it's a good time to
check the clearance between the shift rail (that rod sticking
out of the middle of the t'case) and the new JB bearing carrier.
Shift the t'case into 4LO so that the shift rail is extended out
as far as it will go. Place the JB carrier on the rear of the
t'case and see if the shift rail hits. If it does (mine didn't)
you'll need to grind/cut the tip off the rail. The JB instructions
go into this in more detail and also explain what to do if you've
got a vaccuum-disconnect front axle. |
| Now remove
all the bolts holding the two halves of the t'case together. The
top-most bolt is a 10mm 12-point bolt, so be sure to have the
correct socket handy. Also, that bolt has a nut on the back of
it that holds a bracket that holds the speedo cable (all the other
bolts are threaded into the t'case itself). Next, using a flathead
screw driver, gently (remember, it's made of aluminum) pry the
two halves of the t'case apart at the appropriate locations (there
are indentions are either side). The oil pump assembly will come
off/out with the back half of the t'case. |
 |
Now
for the fun part...
Page
1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page
4
Return
to Jeep Tech | Return
to Jeepin'
|
