This is what the t'case will look like after removing the rear half. I got lucky and had all the silicon sealant come off on the rear half, so I didn't have to worry about cleaning the front half of the t'case. You can see bits of the silicon still left over though.

Pull the spring off the shift rail and set the spring aside.

Now slide the front and rear output shafts out of the t'case, the chain will come out with them. You can remove the shift ring with the main output shaft, or leave it in the t'case. I figured it would be easier to just leave it in. You can see the shift ring still in the t'case in this picture.

Unfortunately I didn't get any photos from pressing the new bearings into the synchronizer, but the JB instructions have good diagrams showing what to do and how far to press them in.

Here you can see the synchronizer, washer/shim, and large lockring reinstalled on the new output shaft.

This is what it should look like once you get the output shafts and chain reinstalled. Be sure to put the spring back on the shift rail.

At some point you will need to clean all the old silicon off the two t'case halves so that you can seal them back up. If you have silicon on the front half of the t'case, I would recommend cleaning it off while you have the chain and output shafts out so you don't get silicon flakes all over them. I used a round stiff wire brush on a drill to take the silicon off. It took a while, but worked very good and didn't scar the surfaces.

Once you get all the old silicon off, you can apply new gasket maker. I used UltraBlue RTV Gasket Maker and it seems to be working very well.

In this shot you can see the back of the oil "pump" and its pick-up tube. Make sure you get the pump and pick-up tube lined up correctly before reinstalling the rear half of the t'case and sealing everything back up. I had some trouble getting the pump to slide over the new output shaft, so make sure you've lubed the new shaft up well with ATF.