Installation
date: 10/16/99
Installation
continued:
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Once you
have the back half of the t'case sealed and bolted back up,
install the blue speedo gear "thing".
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Now apply
gasket maker to the new JB tail housing and bolt it to the t'case.
The JB kit supplies new metric bolts to use to bolt their tail
housing to the t'case.
Reinstall
the speedo gear housing and bolt down the housing retainer
clip. Make sure you rotate the housing to the correct position
so that your speedo gear engages the outputshaft, otherwise
your speedometer and odometer won't work.
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Now slide
the new rubber washer/seal (the large star-shaped rubber ring)
over the output shaft, install the new yoke and nut, and torque
it all down. Do the same for the front yoke. |
| This what
all the driveshafts look like compared to one another. The top
driveshaft is my stock front shaft. The next one is the new, heavy-duty
CV rear driveshaft from Tom Woods (notice the clearcoat finish,
rubber boot around the slipyoke, and output shaft yoke already
bolted to it). The dull grey one is my lengthened stock rear shaft,
and the last one is a stock rear shaft from a '96 XJ with an NP231
and Chrysler 8.75" rear axle. (yes those are the toes of
my boots at the bottom of the photo) |
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Once you
have the yokes torqued down, bolt up the driveshafts, fill the
t'case with a liter of ATF (make sure you've replaced the drain
plug), and you're ready to go.
One thing
I did before bolting the driveshafts up, just to make sure I
got everything back together correctly, was to start the engine
and shift through the tranny and t'case gears to make sure the
output yoke were spinning like they should.
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| If you
go with a CV rear drivehshaft, you will have to shim the axle
so that the pinion is within 3 degrees of the driveshaft angle. |
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Overall
I've been extremely pleased with the conversion and driveshaft,
I only wish I'd done it sooner. The JB kit was not very hard
to install at all, even with splitting the t'case on the rig.
Really, the hardest parts were just working with the lockrings
(my pliers weren't quite big enough), pressing the bearings
into the synchronizer (not hard, you just need the right tools),
and getting the front yoke nut off (air tools are definitely
on my wish list now).
The CV
driveshaft from Tom is very impressive. Definitely well built.
I would highly recommend Tom to anyone looking for a new or
custom driveshaft.
For more
information contact:
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