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Friday night i got out to the first cruise, had an absolute blast talking to everyone. no one really knew what it make of it! :rock: there was a huge parking lot behind where i'm taking the picture, i was "late" and in the overflow. ended up with a few rows of cars in the grass yet that evening.
Goal Achieved! grass shut in the door :rock: https://i.imgur.com/9KCBGOR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cCOgNB0.jpg |
turbo drain seal fixed, no leak. the stupid o-ring wasn't thick enough for the groove they put in the part. i just cut a new paper gasket from a roll i had, left the oring, and tightened her back up. guess that worked.
catch can had an internal filter that was restrictive, ditched that. i also forgot to put the steel wool de-mister in the can, so added that. then added 2 more breathers off my 2 oil caps in the front of the engine, no more breather oil. just the front main and rear main leaking oil :lol: added some firewall insulation, as you could imagine that was getting uncomfortably hot inside with the hot pipe basically touching. the wrap does a lot, but not quite that much. it's just warm now, so huge game on. https://i.imgur.com/VdVDDnz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PCAcYwn.jpg |
the wife had a dream recently that i had 3D printed mounts for a Bluetooth speaker under the dash. she woke up and ordered me this little Bose unit. no way i wasn't going to then print mounts for it! so far no latch of any kind, just cradles it. the rubber like body seams to keep it from moving at all.
with a mount, seamed like a great place to put and hide my "AFC Live" fuel control. should work just like the production version from Power Driven Diesel, but was like 10x cheaper. one bypass valve, an orifice valve to slow the boost signal to the injection pump, and one pressure regulator to set max boost the pump sees. allows you to set the springs and screws in the pump for max power, then dial it back for no smoke and smoother daily driving. or if lazy, have the screws n springs set wrong, and dial in appropriate fueling. in my case, i need to keep the power in check as i should have enough turbo and fuel capacity to yeet the head gasket before i shift gears. https://i.imgur.com/Iua2Km8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/S16E13Y.jpg |
finally the wife got bored and decided to see why i kept talking about washing the truck with CLR and a soft scotchbright pad. so far, so good! she wants to go over it again with the CLR, and i need to order some patina sauce ASAP.
a fair bit of brown reduction, not sure if it worked more or less than i was expecting haha. the nicest part is everything getting a TON smoother after the rub down. but now it almost looks weird with less blotch blue. https://i.imgur.com/TAFhb90.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dUO3MlU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JIsKvVl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IeGYGEA.jpg |
Awesome to see it on the road :rock:.
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More gay by the day - guys sucking yer nipples at every stop and drop :lol:
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The comet wash with steel wool works great too.
Coming out rad! |
as of Friday, we are free! the driveway is awesome, so so much better. and yet, i got Lil' Blue stuck in the driveway :lol:
so after putting in a lot of work on the barn, it was time to circle back to the truck for a bit. getting some tuning taken care of but mainly went after getting the hitch and rear bumper location figured out. decided i really needed to have the hitch on before doing the bumper mounting. i don't always take weld pictures, but these turned out particularly nice. this thing aint goin nowhere. a few extra gussets to the chassis, a few close out panels to clean up, and i'm really happy how it turned out. 2.5" receiver, CHECK! the power connection will be mounted to the bumper, so it's just zip-tied up for now. but then since i have a hitch, must test it out! hitched up the airstream and went for a cruise. she towed perfectly, better than expected, barely even know it was back there. absolutely next level reactions on the road too. thumbs up out the window, waving, the smiles and nods, it was cool to see. until i got home. round the new corner, building boost, head up the gravel hill where the 2wd starts to spin. not enough weight on the rear end yet for the total rig weight. got RIGHT to the top and she stopped spinning and dug. had to back all the way down the driveway and around the corners back to the road where i could unhitch and run up to get the Grand Chero-car. booo i know the picture just a post or 2 ago doesn't look steep, but it's hard to walk on cuz the gravel just slips out from under you. https://i.imgur.com/1qDdOTK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/r0bnxvA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eFeMefL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eNawo8z.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IJXi2og.jpg |
Hell yeah!
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They are a great combo!
Looking good! |
I love that you've shared this and we've been able to follow - you should consider doing Back to the 50's in St Paul in the coming years - join James and me for a spin!
:rock: |
That looks so rad!
Congratulations on a running project! I know it’s not done and probably never will be. :p |
fixed it! it's soooo much better now ... almost too smooth. pretty sure i'll be adding clicks to actually make it a little more responsive, and for a little more top RPM just cuz race truck things.
so first thing last night, lets try the cam plate. well, it's already fully to passenger side, crap. try mid, try full drivers, no change. time to pull the idle spring and see what's up for settings that way. feel like i'm going to drop stuff in the pump, and the wife offers to stop on her way home for a new pen magnet for me. she's awesome. in the mean time i watch the PDD gov spring install to see what i missed cuz none of the adjustment instructions make any sense on mine. see nothing i don't remember, go start pulling it all out just to make sure something stupid didn't happen like ... wait ... ffaaawwwwwkkkk ... i put the springs in upside down with the bottom seat on top. throw it all back together with a conservative click count, now all the descriptions make sense and are super easy to set up. back to the cam plate, still little change, but obviously was full passenger for it's entire life, lock it down and send it. she now starts with no throttle input, idles at like 800 cold n 830 warm, brakes or steering don't affect it much, i can even get going in 2nd gear with no throttle. almost like that's how it was designed! |
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truck did great, but it needs AC freakin ASAP. speaking of AC, the airstream's worked great until the condensation started running out between the wall panels instead of the drain. tried a few things but i'll need to tear the covers off and that can wait til sweater weather.
5th gear, 65mph, 2300 R's, it just didn't care that the trailer was back there. on the way out was 93deg, high humidity, and some of the long up-hill runs into the mountains the engine would get to 208, once to 214, but right back down to 190s on the downhill. might need a little more cooling capacity to run AC and pull a 10k trailer. but that's a Future Matt problem. the waves, thumbs up, camera's, was crazy. ppl at the campground were obviously talking about it cuz ppl would come by and know some of the details already :lol: https://i.imgur.com/eM0ovqJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dC1PN9H.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hvn56jz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yf2Og7h.jpg |
How is it in the truck with the exhaust dumping right behind the cab?
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the extra thick lizard skin on the valve covers, oil pan, and tappet cover i think made a really big difference worth the effort too. you'll never make that engine quiet, but the harshness is gone. |
Pretty sick man! Probably hard to relax at the camp ground having to answer questions the whole time.
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:rock: :us:
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new bits! got the bed floor screwed down and the fuel filler set up. floor is just pressure treated 3/4" ply stained black. it'll eventually get a full rubber bed cover, just not decided between utility or fancy yet. battery hatch i used 2 marine hatch latches for easy access, the maintenance/show door in the middle will get another pair with some hinges.
the fuel filler i can't take full credit for, I saw the jerry can filler neck on insta-tube or whatever propaganda site it was scrolling. the dual filler however was me and i hope it works as well as i'm thinking it will. we'll find out after work when i try n fill it. so the can is screwed to the bedside, you open the lid to reveal a Y tube. stick the fuel nozzle down one or the other and send it. each has their own vent. the tanks have a balance tube between them and i only draw/return to one, but it's not enough to fill thru. a check valve does keep it from draining away from the main in a long corner or hill. the side of the jerry can is cut out for easy access, but will get covered by an old job box. it's next on my list to get off the garage floor. will be nice to have some extra storage to just throw stuff. https://i.imgur.com/oqbw99l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9oVxq9B.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GqjMSkz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mcfEPZs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/gpECLYH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fks2ULG.jpg |
Can you share more details on the CLR wash? Soft scotch brite would be red? Follow it up with a general soap / water wash?
I really like the fuel filler idea. Nice work! |
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so the CLR is to remove rust stain from the paint or some oxidation, could do it with a nice towel too. the soft scurbby helps break down the heavier areas and rust flake, basically becomes a wet-sanding. soft scrubby on your car and i'd bet a quick follow with a buffer to get that thing to shine. we've been using a 50/50 clr n water and just scrubbing it. harder where it's bad and less over the cleaner paint. i'm following that with just a hose rinse in sections so it can't ever dry. once i finish, i got this stuff to go over it all. i cant' see doing any form of curing coating, just oil/wax and re-apply time to time. https://sweetpatina.com/ |
If you want to remove rust stain and rust altogether, it's tough to beat muriatic acid (aka weak hydrochloric acid) is super cheap for the job. Need to wear gloves. It's cheap at the home improvement store known as concrete etcher. I use it for all sorts of ****, including cleaning pontoons. Just don't do it on concrete or limestone as the fumes are terrible as it reacts with it.
You can also get HCl in gel format which is what I prefer from a lot of industrial supply houses but it's expensive usually... You can get weaker HCl at auto body refinish places but again it's usually at a premium. Sometimes they have phosphoric acid. Sometimes they sell them as gel and or foaming type, which again is super handy for vertical surfaces. Citric acid (like what is found in Iron Out) is handy, because you can get it in gel format at any store so you can spray it on and move it around and not pay attention to it like most other bathroom cleaner sprays that have phosphoric and glycolic acid (AKA CLR) that dry fast and run. I use the Iron Out gel for bathrooms on painted surfaces a lot. If you're super impatient like me, you can skip using the non-scratching scotchbrite pads and use 2000 grit wet/dry to speed things up with the muriatic acid. Edit: You can also use oxalic acid because it's way less abusive on iron... but it's super poisonous and can be absorbed through the skin way easier than the rest of the acids (that usually just cause burns and whatnot). I use it on thin iron pieces I can't risk pitting on. |
yeah, i use the acid to prep old metal for paint but i can't see using it on patina. it also makes the rust black-ish, and often leaves white mess that needs ground back off.
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before and after CLR wash and Patina Sauce. 3 coats, and since the final wipe down and a few days, it's less shiny now.
https://i.imgur.com/TAFhb90.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/piYLtu6.jpeg |
Did you use the VGG recipe?
I want to give the Impala the soapy quad-zero SOS pad treatment and a buff. That will be next Spring though, she's about to go into the barn for the winter. |
no, this is Sweet Patina - Patina Sauce. when i was looking i wasn't sure the VGG stuff was just the oil/wax.
i'm going to try a DIY mix on the job box to compare https://sweetpatina.bigcartel.com/product/dynamic-duo |
Nice. That looks pretty darn good.
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ok, did a little more research on the sauces and decided to buy 1gal of boiled linseed oil, plus 1qt of mineral spirits. 5x the sauce, 30% cheaper. i'll mix this up and use it on the job box (currently nothing on it) and compare.
the patina sauce smells like sun tan lotion or pina colada ... i should mix some "essential oils" or something in this DIY batch for a different scent. wife might stop helping me if it smells chemical-like :lol: |
I think VGG uses those two ingredients plus a dash of WD-40 or something like that.
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ordered some chocolate "essential oil" for my DIY batch :lol:
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:lol:
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How many miles have you put on the truck at this point? Any issues since you took it on the first break-in run?
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i'm over 1000 miles now. only real issue is the drivers front suspension came loose and dropped some alignment shims. glad i caught it while it was still as easy as just putting more back in and retorqueing it.
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Nice!
What's next for it, beyond the cosmetic work you've been doing? |
next next will be the bumpers/tailgate ... then i'd really like to get my diesel gauges going. after that it's into finish/redo the rear wheel houses, bed side steps to hide the fuel tanks, HVAC, etc, etc, and probably finally build the race engine.
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Hey, man, it's been a full month and then some - what other projects are keeping you from updating this :squint:
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- P7100 swap on the '93 (see that thread)
- finishing details on the Toy Box shell (i'll have to check when i last updated that thread) - started putting up Toy Box ceiling insulation Now that Hank is into tuning and i can drive it, next i'll be doing a set of tube fenders for Dietz new LJ. highline, integrated flare, etc. new design for me, and keeping the factory inner fender in the factory location. wish me luck! |
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