What about...hear me out here...turning one frame rail into the exhaust? :lol:

right!!

:f2:

dude ... you are actually not the first person to suggest that :james:

The more I think about it...the more I think it could work. Cross section might be a bit small at the back section...I bet it would sound really weird :lol:

Got a new toy in the mail today! I had the swag press brake, but just got the adapter for tight bends. I think this is going to be good.

The sheet is 16g CORTEN i had left over from building the house, so its nice n solid. I was thinking about where to put a bead roll or 2 and its just noooot needed. The floor structure bridge will be plated over and under to box it.

https://i.imgur.com/ZBfU4eA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FZV4csN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8tiemYN.jpg

I have a meeyon uses for that thing, where did you get it? It looks like it does an awesome job.

If you google swag off-road he makes a bunch of add ons for standard tools and HF stuff. We have an air over hydraulic adapter for the JD2 bender and it works great. Swag does cool stuff. He

Yep swag off road brings a lot of win! I have a portaband table mount as well

Getting a little better at this sheet metal thing. I'll fill the floor flat across to the tunnel, and will be a huge flare going fwd around the bell. Lucky me, i was able to read my own sketch :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/rGB7ojp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XKVbh2z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zwe22iq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9pZO3NE.jpg

finally got the throttle pedal i ordered like 2 months ago. There was NO way my size 13 boot was going to fit between the tunnel and the brake pedal where it was. Relief cuts, reversed the bends to get the pedal arm on the other side of the column n i think we are golden. I actually like the mirrored look better to!

https://i.imgur.com/JTC2uAF.jpg

Welp, I know what I need to order now.

ok, finally stopped procrastinating and got to work on the new doghouse for the #6 cylinder. lots of trial work with the markers before i finally settled on something i liked.

made the firewall cuts, measured twice, then bent myself a 6.5" sidewall to the doghouse. fit it, realized i had measured wrong, and had to cut in half since i didn't want to waste that much steel. got it welded back together and that little panel had a little warp in it. i hate sheet metal. and i really could have taken a tiny bit more out of it, but oh well. she fit pretty well.

https://i.imgur.com/n95rs0Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rIgQDj8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WtOx9Bs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n2criUn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/igcgbVS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ctdnsas.jpg

so before i swung that massive chunk of cast iron out of the frame, i had measured about where i wanted to cut the tunnel on the dog house back plate. nothing like trusting in your notes and making holes! the back plate has a 6.5deg bend (same angle as engine tip) in it as well, trying to pull the face fwd and give my boot a little more room. i need to test fit with all the pedals and seat in place, but i could actually do like a 1" chamfer up that whole corner if needed too. i'll finish the rest of the tunnel first.

should have enough room on the exhaust side for an aftermarket manifold and full blanket to keep the cab cooler.

https://i.imgur.com/VK4baEV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b5wh5Rw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CKy2eFi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XDm9vxQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/32vnZzP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Bi3m2C4.jpg

my biggest win was that the engine/trans were able to swing in together at the same time! that trans is STUPID heavy and i have zero interest in trying to put it in from the bottom. i'd probably pull the cab. my tunnel cut lined up nice, and i'm buring it all in solid now.

https://i.imgur.com/o3jmUcN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kjy7sYR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gVLytud.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PhijXY1.jpg

Looking good. Also agree that I would not want to lift the trans in from the bottom unless I had a 2 post and trans jack.

fawk, i'd not even attempt it on a trans jack! maybe if i had 2 of them under it, one at the bell and one at the tail. only way i would do it would be on a lift, lower the truck down until the trans rests on an HD rolly cart, block it, unbolt n roll back, then lift the truck up off.

actually did that last time i pulled the nv4500 out of the TJ at a buddies house. sooooooo gooooood.

Drill 2 holes for the back head bolts and seal with grommets so you can pull the head bolts out and take the head of without pulling the motor.

In the top of the cowl? Or?

i was thinkin about that, but there are like 4-6 bolts under there. plus i'm not sure i can get the valve cover off, or the exhaust manifold easy.

other than the anxiety of the weight on a HF crane, it's actually not bad puling it vs other junk i've messed with. i made the engine mounts come out really easy totally out of the way, and the front clip won't have anything mounted to it but one lighting connection and 6 bolts to pull. drain some fluids, drive shaft, fuel line n starter wires.

Yeah dodge does it from the factory. I almost got ****ed on that doing a head gasket on a 12v swapped suburban.

Reeeeeeally. I did not know that.

:us::pimp:

aaalllllll the tack welds

https://i.imgur.com/ZiwZyso.jpg

Nice signature :lol:

:rock:

sheet metal is so not my thing ... i had to stop the first night i tried to cap the rib before i threw tools thru the windshield. next day took a zen moment and went back to it. not perfect, but good enough to cover in bed liner! i went under the truck and welded it from the bottom so that i could round the edges similar to the stamped rib in the floor.

other progress didn't happen cuz i went n beat on the jeep. wedged myself between a rock and a tree for the first real cowl damage i've gotten. i'm sad, haha

https://i.imgur.com/1a29YcL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0hKIGWJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/paqnwuu.jpg

sat down last night to officially tackle the pc that's been giving me anxiety. first shot with cardboard was a total bust, so tried a new tactic. i covered the entire opening with tape, drew on my bend lines, then cut the tape along the edges. best part about the tape was it then stuck right onto my sheet. cut out, transferred bend marks, and BOOM.

so the sharp back corners of the doghouse are kinda bugging me. i'm debating cutting them out for a 1" 45, but really need to just round them like the floor rib and see how it looks after.

https://i.imgur.com/aM4Rfgj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rMsRySW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ie1KGSc.jpg

Baller...kudos on plowing through this, tedious little things that are actually huge things in the end. Man, mad props to you guys doing this stuff, love it!!

That’s a great idea to transfer that odd pattern! Noted. :)

Lord knows I get the tedious stuff, but it’s also those things that set aside a really top notch build from a slap it together barely working build.

Slowly but surely working on sheet n got the tunnel finished! I welded the inside of each joint and ground the outside to hopefully resemble the bends after spraying the liner.

https://i.imgur.com/pq971FT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CLu3c6m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aFUh3TT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8oxbnQx.jpg

ok, i finally stopped slacking as bad and did some work this weekend.

the drivers rear body mount reinforcement wasn't attached any more, so i fixed that. welded some floor cracks under it, wire wheel, Auto Tech rust prep, weld-thru primer, and hot metal glued it back on.

then i set to work on the firewall, more sheet metal i've been dreading. started with smoothing out the rib that ended up under my brake booster, and then continued to fil holes. lots to go, but making progress.

https://i.imgur.com/Ya9ivwF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7YtkSp8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NiRXmMu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EZVUrYQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G2siOf9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Pl8CcVe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9IjKS1F.jpg

so i'm still putting off having to do the floor repair, decided to take the firewall a little further tonight. wire wheels, cleaned, Auto Tech Rust Prep, cleaned, and primer to see it in a solid color. a little smoothing here and there, some body caulk, and she'll be ready for the Lizardskin. nothing like a nice textured black coating to hide even more imperfections.

also finished getting the old pedal and steering holes filled, while leaving the new steering hole in place.

https://i.imgur.com/grs1qP0.jpg

Looking good! Nice work on the sheet metal so far.

oh man, my cardboard list is getting shorter! i now HAVE to do the floor patch work before anything else on the cab, it's time to dive into the mess ...

fitted up some frame horn caps and gussets cut from extra box tube.

added the axle center pins to the truck arms. 7/16 cap head bolts slightly turned down down in a drill with a grinder, to specifically fit the smallest drill bit size i had that was larger than 1/2" to open up the perches with. then got the shock mounts, bag mounts, and finally the fish plates fully welded on the arms. just a quick gusset to add to each upright on the bag mounts (cuz beef, and cuz why not) to call these 100% done. the axle however now IS done and ready for clean-up n paint.

https://i.imgur.com/r1f1HGm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/t6U3P5L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EVZC25X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sGvOjhE.jpg

Good Lord, the beef...this thing is gonna be a smoooth ride, but a tank!

Are you tracking all the time and materials spent on this project?
Wow!

i'm tracking parts for sure, but not time/consumables. stuff like the undercoating or something is in the parts, but welding wire/gas isn't.

all in i've dropped some pretty good coin on this thing so far, but should have almost everything to make it drive. there's a lot more to spend making is more hotrod though!

No turning back now! and this, so far, is sucking less than anticipated :lol:

so i found a pdf online of a black and white photo set and description from a magazine that said to cut out the bulk and remove each section of spot welds individually. what a world of difference this one tip has made. a buddy then said to wire-wheel the area to see all the spot welds a lot easier, again, huge win. i still have the little bit around the cab mount structure to get out, but that shouldn't be too bad.

https://i.imgur.com/R3Osp7O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UtuRgou.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lBn71FD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZEPB9tG.jpg

this rust prep stuff seams LEGIT now that i'm finally getting a handle on how to use it. AutoTech Rust Prep.

this stuff ... the gallon is cheaper than the 16oz spritz bottle, so i bought my own bottle. protect your floor, it will etch the cement. i also try and keep it off my chassis since i plan to clear coat it, it will also etch any bare steel it gets on.
https://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Tech-M...0ZAOI97M&psc=1

also finally found an application method i like. i have it in a spritz bottle and mist it on, but have a rag to wipe up the drips coming off the bottom. then once the rag gets kind of saturated i use the rag to dab everything down and make sure it's in all the little spaces. once it's about half dry and the white starts to show up, i re-coat the whole thing with extra rag dabbing to help clean off the start of the white residue. after it's totally dry you have to clean all the white off with water (just a wet rag) before paint.

these pictures are not wet, that's the hard finish it leaves. just needs the rest of the white cleaned off.

https://i.imgur.com/qlSCM7D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z0jXi8v.jpg