Looks great!

:lol:

Yeah, those suck...I've actually helped, and don't recommend it :p

Does look titties tho - dope ride, dude, super excited for you :rock:

got after getting the 2nd turbo mounted. everything looks like it'll work out really good for the entire cold side, and the manifold adapter and exhaust exiting under the cab should be good ... this hot pipe between the turbo's is just TIGHT. it's going to requires a lot of small radius work.

3D printed some more jigs to help, the one pictured is just to slide into position and draw a straight line around the tube. i made another to mark out a 10deg pie cut from the bend.

https://i.imgur.com/XNUrHIA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0gNostI.jpg
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I don't know why, but it always seems funny to me that there's all that turbo weight just hanging off the side of the manifold like that, assuming there's no additional support anywhere.

I swear I've asked but what is under the crank damper with the little pulleys and belt?

right! i felt similar and lots of ppl build big support brackets down to the block for the primary. since mine is over top i don't have good access and started to research it. there's not a single compound kit on the market with a structural support bracket down to the block that i can find. any brackets used on the primary at best resolve the rotation so the hot pipe doesn't spin in the v-band on the back of the small turbo. my bracket will eliminate any possible spin, and provide some structure to keep the welded hot pipe from cracking since it's not carrying all the load.

this manifold has more than enough structure, and so do the 12x M10 bolts holding it to the head. my bits will all hold up ... so it's down to the 4x M10 studs as the only "weak" point. really shouldn't be any problem.

the mini-belt driven thinger under the balancer is my lift pump, Power Dirven Diesel predator mechanical pump. It's built for higher psi and flow than the factory mechanical could ever get too, and similar price to the electric ones.

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/produc...tor-lift-pump/

the pie-cut and straight cut stencils were awesome, highly recommend. the pie cut made quick work of adding some angle and tightening up the bend. it was a 10deg print, but i cut on the sharpie lines so probably more like 12-14 actual. the straight cut needed some tube for alignment, can't just cut off a sliver with it hanging off the end. before i started cutting back the start of the pipe i made multiple marks. ended up trimming it 3x, made it easy easy when already marked.

https://i.imgur.com/ADZ4aym.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nss2Cl3.jpg

i hate how my exhaust welds look, they are always nasty ... not going anywhere, but ugly. good thing it's getting painted and fully wrapped for that SEMA look :lol:

i am super excited this is together, and it's crazy sturdy when assembled. wish i had more room to make this pipe more racecar, but she should be fine. it's tight, but it's big at 3.5". should also have good room that i can get the 4" down pipe past the tire easy without rubbing it at full lock too. cross your fingers for me the outlet flange shows up soon.

https://i.imgur.com/rBu71dA.jpg
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Looking pretty good!

Have you considered a hood stack? :lol:

I kid, I kid.

maybe ... :james:

Admiration and respect.

Oh man, I have not checked on this thread in a while. Looking good dude! :rock:

Thought of you, dude…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1XFA...p0bWNibjUwb29q

That’s some serious practice :eek:

i would LOVE to have a TIG finally ... one day, after the shop is built.

visible welds i try to take more care in, but exhaust will all get wrapped ... i don't bother to change to a smaller wire and just let it eat. i also just fill some gaps vs taking the extra 20min to REALLY fine tune some exhaust pipe fits :lol:

was at the in-laws over the weekend, but still got some stuff done.

- Manifold turbo is officially installed (measured for oil lines)
- installed dash to windshield trim
- got sensor bungs on the hot pipe
- the wife cleaned the inside really good
- started fab of the intercooler mount
- installed seatbelts

i really like how the seatbelts came out. should be way better than just a lap belt or retrofitting a 3-point. also pretty comfy with no cutting into my neck or pulling bad.

https://i.imgur.com/P6GwNFU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tF9jDIY.jpg

In a vehicle that age, you legally probably only need a lap belt, no? So you could wear them either way you'd like?

legally i need absolutely nothing for a belt, i could go completely without. but i don't trust other ppl ...

Werd

Missed opportunity to use GMT800 front seats with the integrated seat belts.

I can't but help think I'd get annoyed with harnesses. YMMV though, and am enjoying following the build, so keep it up!

looked into those, but they are so bulky up in the corner where this cab curves in, they push the seat even further forward.

i have been using harnesses in the TJ for a long time and really like em. lap belt for just around town, shoulders for longer or highway trips. i really do prefer them.

Do you cinch them up to proper tightness when using the full harness? That's the part that sucks to me...otherwise what good are they doing :dunno:

"proper tightness" or not doing any good?? really? you could have visible slack, i contend that holding both shoulders will still keep you more secure than any 3pt could ever hope to.

if you are racing and could hit the wall at 200mph flipping 10x thru the air, yeah, wrench that sh!t down crazy-tight. if you are driving thru town on your way to Walmart, what tightness would you put a basic lap belt at? shoulder belts are similar without slack, but still allow you to breath normally.

IDK how it does it, but the automatic seat belt locks engage really quickly in my F250 based on changes in acceleration in the vehicle (which was super annoying when I had a constant vibration caused by sh1tty tires). To the point where I had a hard time reaching anything :lol:. I'll agree that in most cases they're slack, so your point is valid, though there is always some form of tension on the 3-point belts to keep them taught and against your body so you can't slip out of them easily or by accident.

hot pipe in paint, fully wrapped, and installed with the s475. i really like the one boot cold side connection. turbo oil lines are ordered, so i really need to get on mounting that charge cooler!

also, "hood stack" pic for James

https://i.imgur.com/QQLCVYD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/07FvHPT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cQr7A4C.jpg

Looking good. Keep the hood stack :pimp: :lol:

I got rid of the the harnesses in my J10 and went back to 3 points. I can tell you I wear my seat belt more now then I did with the harnesses. As Cobound would say, to each their own.


I have read the argument for not running harnesses in something without a cage is you dont want to be pinned up right if the roof gets crushed down. :dunno:

wrapped up the intake this weekend, that's officially sealed and tight. other than once the front clip is on i'll just need to figure out an air filter. so i figured what angle the intake stack needed to be, then in 3D i cut a model of 3.5" pipe and measured the arch length around the miter. i then made an ellipse of the same arch length that fit inside the intake mounting holes and had some plate cut. chopped some pipe, squished it, and I'm super happy with the transition.

i did add some weld bead around the top edge of the pipe to keep the coupler n clamp from slipping off.

i don't particularly like the look of the cooler on top of the engine. it's a nice compact packaging though, it's free space under the hood that isn't used for anything else, and the air path is really good. hard to argue with all that.

https://i.imgur.com/nuVHuel.jpg
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https://i.imgur.com/pVXRHxe.jpg

then moved on to the down pipe where thing got close, but they fit! 4" down pipe snaked :rock:

even pre-added some sensor bungs if i ever want them.

https://i.imgur.com/ige3i9p.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/idusLoN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oCUNf43.jpg
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Exhaust looks good. Are you just painting with hi temp paint? I’m curious about having the stock manifold on my flat fender ceramic coated.

Is that air cooler air to water?

it's just high-temp paint to seal the welds. i've had them rust bad enough quick enough before, and this stuff seams to really help the whole system last way longer. the TJ's entire system is still mostly black after over 10 years.
wrapping it also doesn't seam to hurt, this will get wrapped the whole way back to keep heat out of the cab.

Air to water, yup. it'll get water plumbed to one of the 2 radiators in the back. lots of skeptical ppl on the air-to-water deal

What's to be skeptical about? As long as it's sized sufficiently for the air volume and temperatures the concept itself is well proven, lots of cars run air to water these days.

I do see potential heat soak concerns with the mounting location, but even that can be offset if it becomes an issue. I'm assuming a traditional front mount intercooler was space constrained?

The truck is coming along nicely, I'm excited to see it starting to come together. Hopefully it's time for some body panels soon!

there's soooo many ppl skeptical about the water to air! from ppl running engine coolant thru the cooler to poor water cooling that lets it heat soak, etc. i guess we'll see hopefully soon enough. i specifically sized the radiator to be slightly bigger than the core of the charge cooler, in theory the system should be able to ditch more heat than it can take in. plus at some point it'll also have an aluminum reservoir in the bed that would shed even more heat.

Is it being plumbed into the engine cooling circuit? If so, I'd do a dedicated circuit for the air to water. You'd definitely want it cooling the charge below where the engine would be running.

Big air to air is more suitable for keeping temps in check in situations such as hauling up a long grade. YMMV though.

https://media1.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2...Uvrs/giphy.gif

it's not part of the engine cooling! ... no one should be using engine coolant for a water-to-air in any application except maybe sub-arctic. this comes up all the time on every forum and i have no clue where anyone get the idea from.

from now on i'm calling them water chillers instead of radiators ... maybe that'll help.

as for air-to-air vs water-to-air for heavy extended loading, either can suffer or either can be engineered to provide more than enough cooling capacity. the decision mostly comes down to space, complexity, and costs to pick one or the other. most ppl use some tiny water chiller due to space/location issues, or only an ice box reservoir for drag racing. an ice box will heat soak real quick.

i'm very space limited in the nose of the 55 from the long engine, and lowered chassis, plus getting the '78 steering in there. the 55 radiator is notably smaller than that of a 2nd gen ram to start with. by removing the air-to-air from in front of it, it's getting much cooler air to start with, should be no issue. water-to-air is more complex and more cost, but allows me to use space i have above the engine and under the bed. the key is ... did i size and place the components correctly to never heat soak. my water chiller should have more surface area than the charge cooler.

My air to water experience is fairly limited to the DSM platform, I have had numerous friends run it successfully. Their biggest issues typically related to keeping the coolant side sealed as the length and complexity of the lines were prone to leakage. They simply work when done right.

Your charge cooler looks to be at twice the size of what my DSM friends ran, so that tracks given the nearly 3x displacement increase and higher boost pressures being seen.

Most aftermarket charge coolers I've seen mounted to the side however, not directly above the engine. I assume that diesel will throw off a good amount of heat, especially with the turbos inches away, but you do appear to be liberally applying insulation that should help offset.

Given factory supercharged applications like the Hellcat and ZR1 included air to water intercoolers (charge coolers) are integral into the supercharger, even closer to the heat of the engine block, I'm sure you wouldn't be the first engineer combatting ambient temperature impacts on the charge cooler design.

I'm very interested to see how it works out, how close you get to target temps. Will you have probe(s) to monitor while driving?

Just refer to it / them as the heat exchanger(s) for the charge air cooler. Add that they're isolated from the engine cooling circuit if you must.

They're also integrated into the intake manifold, so the cooled charge basically goes right to the engine. Matt's distance from turbo to CAC to intake is very short. From that side of things, it should work nicely. Not a lot of people going the water to air method in the diesel world that I've seen (that said, I don't follow it much anymore either).

i keep thinking about scoops of some kinds in the hood. small details that make you looks twice, not something big n gaudy. was really thinking just one for the air filter to wash it with fresh air, but another to wash the cooler with fresh air wouldn't hurt.

i have a fit blanket for the s475, and still need to order one for the s362. i have some cut-to-shape blankets for the turbo adapter off the manifold and may also put more between the firewall and pipes. i hadn't thought about putting any under the cooler, but might make sense.

i also have 2 water chillers in the back, each is bigger than the core of this main charge cooler. the idea was to also have another water-to-air between the turbo's to help reduce temps even more ... but that's excessive for the boost levels i'll be running at the moment. can play that game later.

also at the moment i won't really have too many sensors, just enough to know if things are really going to hell or not. eventually after the barn is up and i have some cash again, i want to fully instrument and be able to data-log this thing to make is fawkin sing.

A charge air cooler of any type, between the turbos in a compound setup, is something I've never seen anywhere. I think that would be a large expense of time and effort for marginal gains, if any.

i think most of that is they are in bigger trucks with room to run a nice giant air-to-air easy n cheap like

the cooler charge will help the 2nd turbo efficiency, you are compressing cooler denser air. you also end up with less heat load for the main cooler to deal with.

Old Smokey F1 is the easy example to find. he had a water-to-air mid stage cooler, and the air-to-air final. he also had a MASSIVE rear mounted rad for the engine cooling, reverse of me. shame that truck got so wadded up again.

https://speedhunters-wp-production.s...0-1200x811.jpg

door parts finally came!! it's officially "dry'd in"

https://i.imgur.com/TeG22Al.jpg