Quote:
Originally Posted by nblehm
The inside stuff peeling off might make me stop working on a project  |
BS!! i have your solution! i was ready to murder kittens over that BS though, holy hell! no clue why i thought i could "do better" on this truck than prior YJ rust work ... i already had it figured out.
i've been researching deep into this rust junk now ... turns out there are only 2 products on the market that harden in the presence of moisture and actually seal the metal away from future oxidation.
POR15 and Chassis Saver. i've had amazing results from chassis save, and it's cheaper. it's basically the same thing as POR15 even thought POR15 sells a whole multi-step kit. chassis saver can be used in the same multi-stage process for WAY cheaper though, but i've not actually tried that yet.
works fine for years:
-wire brush
-blow chucks n dust off with air hose
-heavy wet coat of Chassis Saver
-rattle-bomb it whatever color you want
**can be even better if properly wire-wheeled vs brushed and properly cleaned after
Chassis Saver Multi-step process: (to match POR15 but way cheaper) {i've not tried this yet, but should be awesome}
-wire wheel
-clean with proper degreaser
-Kleen Strip Concrete and Metal Prep ($16 /gal at Home Depot)
... literally the same phosphoric acid as AutoTech Rust Prep and POR15 metal prep
... do NOT dilute per bottle instructions
... nice very wet coat (put down plastic or cardboard cuz it'll etch your cement, gravel driveway, etc)
... once drying on the edges, 2nd heavy wet coat
... let dry over night
-clean with proper degreaser
... you MUST clean it before any further coatings, it creates a white powder that nothing will stick to.
-heavy wet coat of Chassis Saver
... can 2nd coat if you want, i have lots of times.
-cure over night
-top coat with paint of choice (Chassis Saver is not UV stable and must have a top coat)