Project: PapaBear - Page 4

xj_man_646 · 04-15-2025, 03:03 PM

Front axle?

6DoF · 04-16-2025, 06:22 AM

maybe! i just really want to build my own housing.

hell, i'm actually thinking about building a super heavy duty vs for the front of Hank too. pinion angle still sux and with the leaf perch cast into the housing it's kind of a pain to rotate it up. plus cut n twist the knuckles back.

xj_man_646 · 04-16-2025, 01:30 PM

Just swap a super duty axle into Hank and be done. 2005+ D60s are like $200 these days. Re-drill the UBHs, buy a 3rd UBH and re-drill it to have as an on-hand spare, and call it a day. OEM 1550 joints in the shafts are cheap. Steering angle is better than any kingpin variant could hope for.

Of course that is just my opinion.

MBood82 · 04-16-2025, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

Just swap a super duty axle into Hank and be done. 2005+ D60s are like $200 these days. Re-drill the UBHs, buy a 3rd UBH and re-drill it to have as an on-hand spare, and call it a day. OEM 1550 joints in the shafts are cheap. Steering angle is better than any kingpin variant could hope for.

Of course that is just my opinion.

Is the $200 sarcasm or legit? At $200, it's almost worth buying one of those for when I look at new transmission/t-case options for the Blazer. The passenger side drop on my current D60 is a limiting factor, most OD transmissions I look at would have a drivers side drop. Could convert to coils if wanted to get adventuresome even...

6DoF · Yesterday, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBood82

Is the $200 sarcasm or legit? At $200, it's almost worth buying one of those for when I look at new transmission/t-case options for the Blazer. The passenger side drop on my current D60 is a limiting factor, most OD transmissions I look at would have a drivers side drop. Could convert to coils if wanted to get adventuresome even...

what transmissions are you looking at that you wouldn't keep the current t-case?

MBood82 · Yesterday, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6DoF

what transmissions are you looking at that you wouldn't keep the current t-case?

It isn't about the transmission, current tcase is a 203 with a part time kit. I should do something to get better gearing and it seems the world opens up easier if I go drivers side drop for the easy options.

6DoF · Yesterday, 10:31 AM

you can run a d300 driver or pass drop. only thing you need to do is make sure the shift seals are in good shape and plug/re-drill the vent hole to the other side. good gearing options, big spline outputs, etc. With the abuse i've seen heavy buggies give and what i've put mine thru, your truck with maybe a few hundred pounds extra would be no issue even in stock form.

wrath · Today, 06:21 AM

I keep looking hard at Ford laterish model Dana 60s.

The price of them is enticing, but you still end up replacing literally everything in them anyway and you either get to deal with a bastard bolt pattern or deal with modifying unit bearings. Since they're wide you need to deal with the rear axle swap also.

The center section is way off in left field so it's a no-go for leaf spring vehicles.

People talk about the 1550 joints but all the easier to use ones come with 1480s.

People also forget about the brake changes over the years. Pretty much better off with either a 2010 or around a 2014.

If you've already got a proper kingpin 60 with narrow perches... I'd just keep it.

https://www.jbconversions.com/produc...mpletecase.php
https://www.offroaddesign.com/np203-...ubler-kit.html

Hoofmann · Today, 10:25 AM

There are a few advantages to the 2005+ D60s.
1. Larger axle tubes.
2. Larger knuckles than the previous ball joint version or kingpin knuckles.
3. Room for big bell RCVs or 1550 u-joints in the 2005+.
4. 35 spline stub shafts, stock. (older versions have 30 spline and nobody wants that)
5. 10” ring gear as opposed to the old 9.75”. I think this might be moot once you regear. I have heard that 10” ring gears fit in the older castings and the aftermarket gears might all be 10” now. I have aftermarket gears in my kingpin 60 but I don’t know how big the ring gear is.

If you’re worried about the bolt pattern, do what James said -OR- since you’ll likely be swapping rear ends anyway, run a matching Ford 10.5” rear. Wheels are readily available for that pattern, now.

MBood82 · Today, 11:07 AM

Forgot about the bolt pattern differences, that alone adds enough cost difference that the benefits are starting to outweigh the cons.

I already have a 14B and D60 on leaf springs on the K5, they sit perfectly under the truck. Just looking at future projects for it, after I move next year I want to work on getting the Blazer to be more streetable, without losing it's current off-road capabilities (or improving where possible).

I know the current t-case is not optimal in many ways, and taking the easy route of a single bolt on case rather than trying to build a doubler or other mongrel is appealing. I also have a length issue, the Blazer is similar to the TJ in that the rear driveshaft is fairly short and needs a CV joint even at low lifts. I know I can make a doubler work length wise, but the shortest overall setup is appealing.

wrath · Today, 11:20 AM

$2k for a Lomax is the easy solution. I've been buying up Ford NP205s for parts when I see them.

04-15-2025, 03:03 PM	#61
xj_man_646 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: MN Posts: 27,863	Front axle? __________________ - James I like diesels

04-16-2025, 06:22 AM	#62
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 17,115	maybe! i just really want to build my own housing. hell, i'm actually thinking about building a super heavy duty vs for the front of Hank too. pinion angle still sux and with the leaf perch cast into the housing it's kind of a pain to rotate it up. plus cut n twist the knuckles back. __________________ ...................................___ .................. ________\|\|___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;..;\|/_(O)\______ /_(O)\|

04-16-2025, 01:30 PM	#63
xj_man_646 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: MN Posts: 27,863	Just swap a super duty axle into Hank and be done. 2005+ D60s are like $200 these days. Re-drill the UBHs, buy a 3rd UBH and re-drill it to have as an on-hand spare, and call it a day. OEM 1550 joints in the shafts are cheap. Steering angle is better than any kingpin variant could hope for. Of course that is just my opinion. __________________ - James I like diesels

Yesterday, 10:31 AM	#67
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 17,115	you can run a d300 driver or pass drop. only thing you need to do is make sure the shift seals are in good shape and plug/re-drill the vent hole to the other side. good gearing options, big spline outputs, etc. With the abuse i've seen heavy buggies give and what i've put mine thru, your truck with maybe a few hundred pounds extra would be no issue even in stock form. __________________ ...................................___ .................. ________\|\|___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;..;\|/_(O)\______ /_(O)\|

Today, 06:21 AM	#68
wrath Jeeper wannabe Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 3,162	I keep looking hard at Ford laterish model Dana 60s. The price of them is enticing, but you still end up replacing literally everything in them anyway and you either get to deal with a bastard bolt pattern or deal with modifying unit bearings. Since they're wide you need to deal with the rear axle swap also. The center section is way off in left field so it's a no-go for leaf spring vehicles. People talk about the 1550 joints but all the easier to use ones come with 1480s. People also forget about the brake changes over the years. Pretty much better off with either a 2010 or around a 2014. If you've already got a proper kingpin 60 with narrow perches... I'd just keep it. https://www.jbconversions.com/produc...mpletecase.php https://www.offroaddesign.com/np203-...ubler-kit.html

Today, 10:25 AM	#69
Hoofmann AKA: Kebo Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 7,934	There are a few advantages to the 2005+ D60s. 1. Larger axle tubes. 2. Larger knuckles than the previous ball joint version or kingpin knuckles. 3. Room for big bell RCVs or 1550 u-joints in the 2005+. 4. 35 spline stub shafts, stock. (older versions have 30 spline and nobody wants that) 5. 10” ring gear as opposed to the old 9.75”. I think this might be moot once you regear. I have heard that 10” ring gears fit in the older castings and the aftermarket gears might all be 10” now. I have aftermarket gears in my kingpin 60 but I don’t know how big the ring gear is. If you’re worried about the bolt pattern, do what James said -OR- since you’ll likely be swapping rear ends anyway, run a matching Ford 10.5” rear. Wheels are readily available for that pattern, now.

Today, 11:07 AM	#70
MBood82 Turd Ferguson Join Date: May 2004 Location: Almost Wisconsin Posts: 14,807	Forgot about the bolt pattern differences, that alone adds enough cost difference that the benefits are starting to outweigh the cons. I already have a 14B and D60 on leaf springs on the K5, they sit perfectly under the truck. Just looking at future projects for it, after I move next year I want to work on getting the Blazer to be more streetable, without losing it's current off-road capabilities (or improving where possible). I know the current t-case is not optimal in many ways, and taking the easy route of a single bolt on case rather than trying to build a doubler or other mongrel is appealing. I also have a length issue, the Blazer is similar to the TJ in that the rear driveshaft is fairly short and needs a CV joint even at low lifts. I know I can make a doubler work length wise, but the shortest overall setup is appealing.

Today, 11:20 AM	#71
wrath Jeeper wannabe Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 3,162	$2k for a Lomax is the easy solution. I've been buying up Ford NP205s for parts when I see them.