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Old 03-31-2012, 03:43 PM   #36
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Looks like it
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:08 PM   #37
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And thats dye green not antifreeze green?

(looked like there was some on the rad cap which is why I ask)
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #38
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Good question
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Good question
And?
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:03 PM   #40
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Yeah I don't know yet, been spending my time chasing electrical gremlins on it, and I pulled the trans out of the Z28 yesterday. Coolant overflow level is normal. I need to clean it up and watch for where it's coming from. AC still blows cold.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:17 PM   #41
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Does it smell like coolant?
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:40 PM   #42
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No, it doesn't
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:33 PM   #43
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Does it smell like dye?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #44
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Does it smell like virgin boy pee?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #45
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Does it smell like piss?

Damn St. Patricks day beer!
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #46
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dammit JJ!
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:36 PM   #47
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I'll give it a good whiff tomorrow for you guys
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #48
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Quote:
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I'll give it a good whiff tomorrow for you guys
Just taste it and tell us if it tastes like ethylene glycol.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:06 AM   #49
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Just taste it and tell us if it tastes like ethylene glycol.
...or virgin boy pee.
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:27 PM   #50
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Yeah it's coolant

:edit: I was wrong, its dye.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:02 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Yeah it's coolant
Glad we got that sorted out.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:29 PM   #52
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yeah now I gotta figure out what the hell is causing coolant to spit out my radiator cap

I bought a new one today to put on there tomorrow, we'll see if that fixes it
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:03 PM   #53
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yeah now I gotta figure out what the hell is causing coolant to spit out my radiator cap

I bought a new one today to put on there tomorrow, we'll see if that fixes it
I was gonna say, probably just a bad cap.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:19 PM   #54
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yeah i hope so

put the new one on today and cleaned up all the green shiz aroudn it, we'll see
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:45 AM   #55
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BTW, I think its the distributor. I had those same symptoms in my '88 and it was the distributor.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:11 PM   #56
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Upper radiator hose, which is on the other side of the radiator, was ballooning and leaking a bit. Hopefully that is the only culprit. I thought I was having a trans fluid leak at the radiator but I'm not sure now. We'll see.

We have a Tahoe of the same year as this WJ with 20,000 more miles on the ticker. In the 1.5 years we've had it, I haven't seen nearly this many issues.

I guess this is what happens when you buy a 10+ year old vehicle that was the first year after a major redesign.

It's not so bad, it's just annoying because I need to finish getting the Camaro back on the road.

What I haven't mentioned is I've also had to replace the 2 dash speakers, taillight assemblies (after replacing every bulb), and the rear glass shock things. Still need to adjust the shifter, it doesn't find the gear selection well. There are other things im not thinking of, too. Bah
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:48 AM   #57
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We told ya!
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:52 AM   #58
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Yeah...first year after major re-design = inevitable problems IMO.

OBS Chevys rock. They don't seem to die easily.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #59
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Keep in mind too is that things like a radiator hose and AC leak are easy to ignore for awhile until they all kinda catch up with you.

I get lots of vehicles that someone put off that type of work for a long time.....then when I get them there is a host of minor issues that need to be fixed.......

The last 97 I had needed new hatch shocks.....and the hatch was stuck shut so it needed the linkage adjusted, and then the rear window wiper switch was busted, then the rear window wiper motor was busted, then the sprayer arm was busted, then the mirror circuit wasn't working.....etc etc.

If you just take care of them one at a time its no biggie, just put it off over and over then it all kinda comes to a head....usually when a new owner gets it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:14 PM   #60
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Popped the hood today and there's a bunch of green again, not sure where it's coming from. BAH

Maybe the lower hose.

Good points, Sam.
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Old 07-15-2012, 05:46 PM   #61
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Ok steve I did it, I got the electric vac pump, used a 20% off coupon and got it for $90 after tax. Gotta fix some AC now.
Sam, which one did you buy? 2.5CFM or 3 CFM?

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-...ump-98076.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-sta...ump-66466.html

I blew an a/c hose in the Z28 today so I'm gonna make sure I pull vacuum before recharging this time. I'll probably finally redo the WJ this time around as well.

I'm hoping you bought the cheaper one and its working out because its a $50 difference and I'm cheap
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #62
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Alright, I bought the 2.5CFM and am about ready to evac/refill the system.

What I don't quite understand is how to charge the system once it is in a state of vacuum. What I would typically do is just pull the hose for my gauge set off the low side and connect my can's hose to the low side connector. I'm afraid that if I do that now, I'm going to lose vacuum. Maybe not?

I think that I need a way to pull vacuum through my gauge set (which I can do now), then switch over to the can to have it suck in freon from the can.

The low side of the gauge set has a valve that the connector of my can's hose seems to connect to, but it looks like a dummy connector. I'm talking about the connector sticking out to the left of the blue valve in this pic:



Am I overlooking something stupid? I think the same hose that I currently connect to the vacuum will connect to the top of the R134a can, but I'd have to puncture it and quickly connect it and that sounds like a bad idea.

Sam?
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:21 PM   #63
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I figured it out. The can tap valve on my can kit screws off and the end of the yellow line of my gauge kit connects right to it
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:56 AM   #64
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Yep, hook up the can, and loosen the yellow hose at the gauge end to let refrigerant flow through it before you charge the system, to get all the air out of it.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:24 AM   #65
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there's a schrader valve that i used to purge the line from the can to the gauges before charging. you can't see it in the pic but its under the front yellow cover pointing towards the camera, just under the little glass thing
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:29 PM   #66
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Nice.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:24 PM   #67
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there's a schrader valve that i used to purge the line from the can to the gauges before charging. you can't see it in the pic but its under the front yellow cover pointing towards the camera, just under the little glass thing
Yup thats exactly it, purge the air from the line until its filled with r134a.

You can get additional lines that allow you to pull a vacuum while your big can of r134a is still connected, good if you have the 10lb can of it, otherwise just purging with the little cans works good.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:28 PM   #68
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Pulling a vacuum with the can connected... wouldn't that just empty the can through the vacuum pump?
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:58 PM   #69
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Smells like freon....




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Old 07-25-2012, 12:36 AM   #70
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So yeah I guess it wasn't coolant that I noticed before. Just found a reman hose/accumulator on eBay for $38. At least I have everything I need to evac/recharge when I get it replaced.

Bah

FYI guys amazon sells r134a cans in packs of 12 for about $80, not bad at all!
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