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#41 | |
Working Mother
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My hose crimper is a little different, its not hydraulic, and it works well for these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
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#42 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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So i got the new radio mounted and its better than expected! The sound is amazing, noticably better with no other changes. With the spare space i plan to mount the 2 seat heater switches, and a digital air pressur gauge.
Had to trim a little inside the dash, but nothing it'll miss. The sub amp was already in place of the air bag. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#43 |
pee pee pants
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I dig the Dewalt shift knob. Nice touch. Do you still have a hook up there?
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#44 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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#45 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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Melinda, my wife, just described sitting on the sub woofer under the passenger seat of the TJ as feeling like "you have that explosive diarrhea right there"
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#46 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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Update 1: This radio sounds amazing, and generally the idea is great. The execution however BLOWS and it's going in the trash where it belongs. Maybe into the ski boat where I don't need to user it as much.
Update 2: I got the rear air bumps on! It's TIGHT in there, but all fits. Time for a test drive. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#47 |
Needs moar dagger
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Now need jump videos.
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#48 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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#49 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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the crap radio is finally out! thing was soooo bad, the company was soooo bad ... so i followed Sam with the Android radio. so far i love it, i serve a hotspot from my phone. but depending on how it starts, sometimes the audio is mute until you close everything and re-start the music app.
i had been fighting some thermal issues and have been changing things up and adding things. turns out the winch creates a HUGE low pressure at the radiator on the highway. so that sucks and i need to french it down into the frame. however i've done a lot to help with reducing air recirculation, add an oil cooler, hood louvers, etc. sorry for the crappy oil cooler pic, i used the factory hard lines up to the front of the motor, cut them off for compression fittings, and screwed a 12" can style cooler under the radiator. i also then built a new CAI and it's proven amazing. engine temps are down again just from it, throttle response is up, it even winds out at the top end better. this also means i was able to use more fuel on the highway and my MPG went down ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#50 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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small update i guess, junk i've been working on this season.
new thermostat and water pump. seams like the water pump might have made a big difference in cooling, no clue what could have been wrong with the other. don't ever buy a motorad thermostat cuz this 180 is actually a 195, same as the reviews. wouldn't ever buy an android based radio again, the next will be a wireless android auto with a general interface. thinking Kenwood for the XJ. waxed a 2nd set of 5.13's in the rear axle ... 2 different installers and i trust both, very deliberate break-in this last time. general consensus is either that the supertech 80/90 isn't up to the task of 80mph with that pinion speed, or the case is somehow machined off a bit. i set up a used set of 3.55's and could see the old really good contact, there was NO way i could get anywhere near it in my case so i'm leaning to weird case machining. these really make a lot of noise after a LOT of set-up work. switching back to 3.55's is WAY better than the 5.13s (on the street)!! with the 3.55's i drive it like a 4spd with a useless OD, with the 5.13s i drive it like a 4spd with a useless crawler gear. but worst case if i throw a 4:1 in the d300 my crawl still works out fine. with 5.13s in actual 1st you redline before even getting past the start line, it's USELESS short on the street. using the low first as 1st: 3.55 * 5.61 = 19.9 ... 19.9 * 4 = 79.6 3.55 * 3.04 = 10.8 using 2nd as first: 5.13 * 5.61 = 28.8 ... 28.8 * 2.62 = 75.5 5.13 * 3.04 = 15.6 5.13 * 1.67 = 8.6 so really the 3.55s give me 27.5% more torque to ground off a stop sign, and 25.5% more torque in "2nd". way way better. i'm trying to get a stock 3.55 3rd and swap in a 35sp spool to have a spare 3rd and use in the mean time. then i can wait til spring to order a new big bearing 3rd with the posi.
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#51 |
Needs moar dagger
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You still have this thing? Day dreaming a ls TJ for my daughters first car and made me think of this jeep.
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#52 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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**** yeah! drove it to work this morning, I freaking love this jeep!
![]() post-winter she needed the battery charged but fired right up. the spare factory 3rd i set up last year with the spool and 3.55's was getting on my nerves, so i set up the old yukon/LSD with another used set of 3.55's. these set up much better and are nice and quiet. this time i have good oil in the diff, we'll see how long they last. she'd be the most bad-ass chick in town driving an LS TJ for a first car ... maybe start with a 4cyl TJ, then after a few years hook it up with the LS?
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#53 |
Needs moar dagger
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![]() ![]() Yeah probably not the best idea to stick a teenager in a 3-400 hp swb jeep ![]() |
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#54 |
- The Don -
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: MN
Posts: 49,090
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Nate
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To each his own. Not all those who wander are lost. The great irony - triggered snowflakes accusing triggered snowflakes of being triggered snowflakes ![]() |
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#55 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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JAMES!
so here is what i am working on. this jeep really is more of a street rod, i really didn't want the weight of a 1-ton axle up front. the spider9 housing might be lighter than a d60 housing, but are still REALLY heavy vs a stock 9" housing or even vs a d44. i built a junkyard 944 with a stock stamped housing and machined stock knuckles recently that made a shockingly light housing. plus the fab'd 9er housings are all like $1000+ now, not the $350 they used to be. got me thinking, can i just build a light weight version and for way cheaper? so the housing is built to "stock+" strength, while still looking sexy, easier to fab on mounts, and generally being a fun project. i found the 3rd for download and built off it. i designed a few check gauge plates to verify bend angles, and should only need the jig rod i use for welding on axle ends to fixture it all. ![]() ![]() then a completely different direction ... one of the guys said "what if we used the entire tube with welded spindle from a 14b" basically just cut off the cast housing and weld em into my center housing. so i designed a center with heavier plate, wider in case the tubes aren't long enough (investigating), and for the bigger 3.5" tube dia. i built the model as a top-down, so a few changes and all the parts updated around it. i love it when a plan comes together! ![]()
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#56 |
Senior Member
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That is pretty awesome. How much CAD do you do in your day to day job? I forgot 44's came in 8 lug too so 9/44 for this application probably makes sense.
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- James I like diesels |
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#57 |
Jeeper wannabe
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What about modernish Dodge D60 tubes/outers? I see them all the time and keep telling myself I'm going to pick one up but never do.
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#58 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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daily, no ... but multiple times a week for sure. we do a lot of fixtures, custom enclosures, assembly aids, etc for the floor. our 2 PRUSA prints run basically non-stop in 'The Cave' (the windowless Mfg Eng office for 5 of us and the boss)
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#59 | |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,821
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it was only $2xx for SendCutSend to cut n ship all the plate including the bend gauges. i'm hoping a local buddy will do it for way less.
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