Project: PolarRAM

[nblehm]

Interesting. Thanks for the input. Right now I have a cut down Heim, but it isn’t the best.

[6DoF]

well ... the rattle/ringing wasn't 100% gone ... stupid sticks :LOL:

they are still metal to metal on the tube welded to each stick for side to side spacing. i can make some PTFE washers and re-adjust the spacing the bolt bottoms on, but first i found this boot to try. CJ2a transfercase shirter boot. boot was a huge win, 2-fold. the ringing in the sticks was is 100% eliminated again. the flange and extra material also helped block more exhaust and road noise from coming up into the cab.

These sticks really need a plastic washer between them to damp them, but i'd need to grind/machine something to make room for it. that's my next step.

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-1860...,aps,96&sr=8-4

[6DoF]

next was a new shifter, i ditched the chineesium short throw shifter from the picture above and installed a CORE shifter. talk about a night and day difference!! like going from pumping a Nerf blaster to ratcheting an old lever action Winchester. from soft and sometimes had to occasionally try again, to a mechanical masterpiece of precision. has nothing to do with speed shifting, the shorter throw is nicer, but it has EVERYTHING to do with the simple, solid, action. you know exactly where it's at at all time. anyone who claims they are louder must be driving a stock 3rd gen or something, cuz there was absolutely zero difference in my the 1st gen.

[6DoF]

and finally ... hello, my name is Matt, and i have a problem. i hoard transmissions now.

multiple times when i was looking for a 5600 while dealing with the G360 issues, there was nothing to be found. or only over-priced swap kits for 2nd or 3rd gen trucks that i was not going to deal with. i finally found one, got it in the truck, got worried it might need rebuilt and started gathering parts/tools. well now i have 2 non-functional 5600 that need rebuilt, the tools, and the rebuild kits ... but where the hell am i going to get the time?!?!?!

first one is completely torn apart, but i believe has all the parts. the rear input bearing exploded and everything else looks minty. the 2nd was taken apart and refreshed by a guy, made it 1000miles, and has locked up. input and counter shaft spin ok, main shaft does not. since he replaced the 6th gear pair in the refresh, i'm guessing he tows in 6th. betting he burnt the first one, i have the receipt for the ebay gears that went back in it, and smoked it again. my hope is that it didn't weld/spin a bearing in the main case. at least that bit is available easy enough.

[xj_man_646]

Looks like some decent progress. This is one of the neatest 1st gen projects I've seen. I dig it.

[6DoF]

thanks man!

[6DoF]

started having oil psi concerns watching the gauge. no issue in the engine though! 60psi cold and 40 hot, we good.

there's something nice about the hood mounted gauge ... i mean, wiper arm mounted gauge

[xj_man_646]

Are they connected to different areas or is the gauge just failing?

[6DoF]

right into the same port as the factory sensor ... pretty common for the sensor or wiring to **** in the old trucks now.

i'm debating if i just put an under-dash aftermarket in there so i know the actual value vs the factory 'nominal range'. eventually i'd like to re-do the dash with all new gauges anyways.

[nblehm]

Do they make Dakota digital gauges for your truck? I have been really impressed with the ones I put in my j10. Was only a little more than doing my own autometer setup and looks almost factory.

[6DoF]

they actually recently launched a kit for it! it has a rev counter thought and i have a factory option tach pod on the dash ... i'm torn over that.

[6DoF]

my Friday did not go as planned, my annual state inspection found both front axle u-joints were TOAST. of the 8 total caps only 2 had what resembled grease left. only 2 others had what resembled needles left. easy enough, i even already had spare joints since my crawler uses the same d60.

but then, with the truck already in the shop and up on stands ... i decided it was time that i dealt with the front springs. since I've owned it, i knew the springs hit the frame. i knew this junk bottomed out way too much. super short shackles that i guess are built to factory length, coupled with the lift spring that i suspect were made longer to keep the factory short shackle angle functional. going from a stiff to infinite spring rate doesn't make for a great ride. only way to fix that is to make a larger gap.

i had some 1.5" longer shackles made, giving an effective 0.75" lift. the math said my pinion and caster would change by ~1.5deg. i already could have used more pinion angle, not less, so i used some 2.5deg shims to slightly over compensate for the change. to account for the height i pulled leaves and also benefit from the slightly lighter spring rate. after shackles, shims, and pulling the smallest leaf i ended up 3/8" taller with +0.8deg pinion angle. crap, try again, took me 48min to rebuild the leaf packs again. i put the smallest leaf back and pulled the 2nd smallest. this put me back at EXACTLY the same height as before all this started and still had the +0.8deg at the pinion. all win.

truck rides WAY better in the front end! it steers and corners better even. it must have been hitting the frame way more than i thought it was. time to re-try the adjustable shocks to see what happens now. also gets me excited to rebuild the back with the GM leaves finally too.

[Hoofmann]

Hahaha the front leaf springs on my ‘93 were the same. I always knew it was terrible for ride quality but I was too broke in college to do anything other than non-essential repairs.

[6DoF]

somehow that makes me feel better that mine wasn't the only one

[xj_man_646]

I wonder if that is the reason the 1st gen I test drove yeeeears ago rode like a hay wagon.

[Hoofmann]

There is no question. Every first gen Cummins I’ve ever seen has springs like that.

[6DoF]

they were known for being the worst riding of the era for sure. but i think mine was build to be even worse.

i have new springs for the back too. 1998 GM 1500 3" lift springs ... should be enough lift with a shackle reversal that i can remove the factory lift block entirely. plus the GM spring is 64" long vs the dodge at 53". the 64" spring swap is super common, and then i'll just use air bags for load capacity.

[nblehm]

My buddy is swapping 63s under his first gen quad cab right now. I have thought a bunch about putting them under the back of the j10 as well. It’s got Alcan springs on it now but they were about 6” too tall so I have taken half the leafs out. Still doesn’t ride or flex like I hoped it would. Then I start thinking if I’m cutting off leaf brackets I should just 4 link it and total just stall the project

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by nblehm

My buddy is swapping 63s under his first gen quad cab right now. I have thought a bunch about putting them under the back of the j10 as well. Its got Alcan springs on it now but they were about 6in too tall so I have taken half the leafs out. Still doesnt ride or flex like I hoped it would. Then I start thinking if Im cutting off leaf brackets I should just 4 link it and total just stall the project

dude ... i am VERY familiar with that rabbit hole ...

don't tempt me, i've thought about a 4-link and bags in the back of Hank a few times. great load capacity, good ride, could kneel the truck to load/unload the bed, i already have the lower links to combat spring torque wrap, i have to have an air bag over the leaf for load capacity anyways and i have a full air system to go in already ...

the only reason i don't is the upper links or panhard are hard to fit around the fuel tank/exhaust, and the reliability and simplicity of the leaf

damn you ... now i'm thinking about it again ... but i already have all the hangers n new leafs!

[nblehm]

You already have the leafs, just get er done