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Old 03-11-2019, 11:13 AM   #21
Blue XJ
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I'm trying to quiet down and block some heat in my hotrod, the exhaust resonates a bit inside, looking to make it quieter since the kids ride in it more now. I don't expect it to get rid of all of it, but covering the firewall with something has to be better than the nothing that is currently there.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:46 PM   #22
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I'm trying to quiet down and block some heat in my hotrod, the exhaust resonates a bit inside, looking to make it quieter since the kids ride in it more now. I don't expect it to get rid of all of it, but covering the firewall with something has to be better than the nothing that is currently there.
that was basically my thought. Something was better than nothing and wasn't willing to spend a ton.
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:59 AM   #23
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How think of kilmat did you use?
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:18 AM   #24
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Speaking of doing Jeep stuff...did a few light projects myself -

Replaced the spindle in my AEV tire carrier - hoping that solves the small wobble it had, kept breaking the saddle blocks, we'll see. Feels more firm now, that tire looks HUGE back there now that it's back on

Made a rear license plate light bracket - got pulled over in Moab last year cuz it wasn't lit

Installed my Trektop NX - turns out I love it

Packed up another Plano box for gear storage. I can fit two of them plus my RTIC cooler back there, under the Tuffy security box and still have room for other small items. Used to have all my tools in a backpack, now I fit my tools, both straps, plug kit, fluid recovery kit, and small odds and ends in a box, love it! Other box has camping gear and odds n ends for general anytime use. The box fits nicely on my tailgate table as well, love that thing!

Hmm...also got my ATP handles and some Molle rear door extensions installed several weeks ago. With the hard top off (if you have a hardtop and don't have a Harken Hoister, GET ONE) I'll have to get the holes drilled and Rhino Rack mounted...but I have time for that. Moab is right around the corner

















Anyone w/ a 4 door JK absolutely NEEDS these...especially if you have kids!! Before and after, the door opening is amazing!!

Before:


After:


Factory vs. Molle






For years I never installed the soft top cuz I had this, an easy on and off deal...but I'm running half doors and soft top for the trek out west, so this is such a great storage spot as well! Especially cuz I have very limited room otherwise


Here's to working on some little things, finally!!
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:43 PM   #25
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hauling a full-size 40 as a spare seams kind of ridiculous ... only reason i have a full-size 37 is because it was free. if going out over-landing for an expedition i could see it, like in racing, it'll be needed for extended use (i guess you kind of do that stuff). but when off-road, just keep one on the trailer ... or if you really want one around town just use a 35. it'll get you home that ONE time you use it, and be soooooo much less intrusive every day.
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:56 PM   #26
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I like the rear door hinge extensions! I think Ill have to pick up a pair. Even with my small kids getting them in can be a pain.
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Old 03-26-2019, 01:22 PM   #27
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hauling a full-size 40 as a spare seams kind of ridiculous ... only reason i have a full-size 37 is because it was free. if going out over-landing for an expedition i could see it, like in racing, it'll be needed for extended use (i guess you kind of do that stuff). but when off-road, just keep one on the trailer ... or if you really want one around town just use a 35. it'll get you home that ONE time you use it, and be soooooo much less intrusive every day.
Well, it came w/ my Jeep...and I like having things match, to boot. Otherwise, I don't run it locally, only when I head out on a long haul. Like the upcoming 3k mile round trip I'm about to take to Moab - and I've been known to lose a sidewall on occasion when I'm on the trail

I've talked to a lot of peeps about the spare...and they all say to take one when overlanding, period. So I will, I do.

I'm not going to store it inside either, that's valuable space waste!


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I like the rear door hinge extensions! I think Ill have to pick up a pair. Even with my small kids getting them in can be a pain.
Word. My kids are both grown now, but even an adult needs more room to get in these things than those doors provide
Putting gear back there is what I do mostly now...and they are AWESOME!
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:34 PM   #28
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Hopefully I can start doing Jeep things when I get back from Moab. Supposed to be leaving Thursday morning, but my truck is torn apart at the moment. Going to be down to the wire as to whether or not I can leave on time. High pressure fuel pump sh!t the bed and sent metal shavings through the fuel system....needs new pump, injectors, fuel lines, regulators, filters, etc etc etc.....
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:26 PM   #29
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Ha...my buddy Pat (SRT8) has his JK axles town out, doing a 1 ton swap, half doors...let’s just say, half doors came in yesterday from paint and he’ll be lucky to drive the Jeep next week. May even need to toss the 44’s back in if he can’t get it done

Ambitious efforts, I think he’ll make it. Ran into some snags, but when don’t you?!
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:04 AM   #30
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High pressure fuel pump sh!t the bed and sent metal shavings through the fuel system....needs new pump, injectors, fuel lines, regulators, filters, etc etc etc.....
Just out of curiosity...what did all the parts run you for cost (if you don't mind)? I've heard it can be in the 20k+ repair range if done at a dealer.
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:26 PM   #31
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Just out of curiosity...what did all the parts run you for cost (if you don't mind)? I've heard it can be in the 20k+ repair range if done at a dealer.
At the dealer, $12,000 - $15,000. I have a buddy that has a Diesel performance and repair shop to do the work. Total cost in parts was $5,730 and that includes a couple extra things dealing with the DPF. He'll have about 30-35 hours into the whole job when done.

My truck is a 2012 with 52,000 miles. Out of the 5 year/100,000 mile warranty
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:56 PM   #32
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WTF, how did that happen...and wow, that's pricey

I'd have to consider a Hemi swap at that point
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:06 PM   #33
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WTF, how did that happen...and wow, that's pricey

I'd have to consider a Hemi swap at that point
Its the CP4 pump (High Pressure Fuel Pump) found in the Fords and Chevys. Bosch makes it. I've read several reasons why they break down, first is that they apparently doesnt do well with the ultra low sulfer diesel in the states, and it causes the pump to eat itself up with the lack of proper lubrication. The other is if the Flow Meter on the pump itself goes out and sticks open, it runs the pump at 100% duty cycle, 60,000 psi, and it eats itself up. Both send metal dust, shavings, or chunks through the entire fuel system....leading to you needing to replace everything; injectors, pump, fuel lines, regulators, filters, injector rails, etc etc.

They do sell a "catastrophe prevention kit" that is supposed to take those metal pieces directly back to the tank and bypass everything else. So you would just need to replace the pump instead of what Im having to do.

XDP catastrophe prevention kit

Unfortunately, thats what I was originally having my buddy install, but when he got in there to do the work, found it was too late. A $500 job before my trip turned into an $8,000 jobs real quick, and the truck is still not done, and Im supposed to be leaving in 20 hours.
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:10 PM   #34
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Ah, your truck...read that as your Jeep. Damn, that so blows! Especially considering the timing, not just you were going to do the damn upgrade but you're leaving.

Why would that be an upgrade anyway, it should be included w/ the factory purchase, that's terrible!
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:02 PM   #35
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.

That sucks!

This isn't the same pump that is in the 6.7 Cummins trucks? Its surprising that I don't read of issues nearly as much...if it has the same pump.

I have also heard water intrusion into the fuel on the Ford trucks is a major reason why warranty claims for these failures were being denied years ago.
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:04 PM   #36
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.

That sucks!

This isn't the same pump that is in the 6.7 Cummins trucks? Its surprising that I don't read of issues nearly as much...if it has the same pump.

I have also heard water intrusion into the fuel on the Ford trucks is a major reason why warranty claims for these failures were being denied years ago.
I believe its a different pump in the Cummins trucks. Between Chevy and Ford, fortunately Ford is less expensive of a repair than Chevy, so I've heard. I've been reading a lot on it, and I've seen instances where people have their trucks in at the Dealer getting the work done under warranty, but the Dealer prefaces the work with, "During tear down, if we find any evidence of water intrusion, the warranty claim is denied". So you're going into it thinking its all covered, but might end up with a 15K bill.


Sorry Suke, didnt mean to hi-jack your thread....
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:24 AM   #37
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but might end up with a 15K bill.
there is no reason for that kind of number beyond pure price gouging.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:40 AM   #38
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there is no reason for that kind of number beyond pure price gouging.
When it takes 30 - 35 hour of labor...what do you expect? That is probably $4k in labor alone, at a stealership.

Also, see the term stealership.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:44 AM   #39
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Quote:
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there is no reason for that kind of number beyond pure price gouging.
You don't own diesel trucks do you?

Quote:
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When it takes 30 - 35 hour of labor...what do you expect? That is probably $4k in labor alone, at a stealership.

Also, see the term stealership.
Our labor rate is like 150 a hour. Dealerships around here are 160-190.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:09 AM   #40
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I know it was talked about in another thread, but those labor rates just blow my mind. Dealers around here are $130, which I still think is astronomical. With what new vehicles cost, the dealer should get a larger cut, so they can maintain operations and not have to gouge customers when they are fixing the $hitty overpriced vehicles that shouldn't need to be fixed in the first place.
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