PolarYJ: NextGen

[6DoF]

so tonight i'm going to run go carts with guys from work, and tomorrow i need to spend with the wife cuz i'm out of town wed/thrus nights, before a buddy shows up friday night from out of town. so nothing more is going to happen til next week.

i did order what i think is everything i need to get the d60 bolted in 2" fwd of before. bolts, taps, mounts, etc, so next weekend will hopefully see some good progress.

[nblehm]

looks good man.

Are you going to run a axle wrap bar? Curious if mounting the axle center line that far back on the springs will make it wrap

[6DoF]

so the reviews i saw on these perches all claimed less wrap with them. basically making the lever arm of the perch longer to resist it. on that note however, i will without question be running an anti-wrap bar! had one before, (you can actually see it hanging under the jeep) it really makes a difference when bound up or climbing.

i'm going to re-make the bar though. i bought new axles mounts that have more separation to hopefully lower the forces in the bushings a bit, along with the 2" stretch. i'll at least re-use all the old bushings and just re-tube it, it's already been cut and spliced 2 other times.

[ct90YJ]

She's looking really good

[6DoF]

well, made a little progress over the weekend once i got back from the work trip. i need my high steer arms to show up, and i need to clean up the 60 really good with the new kingpin hardware / paint.

so the axle basically bolted in where the GM d44 had been, but it wasn't that easy. first thing was to drill/tap the spring plate housing bolt holes for 3/4-16 to more easily make studs and to be stronger, then i didn't realize that side spring plate wasn't symmetrical and fought that for a while. next, both of my spring hangers were starting to rip, along with wanting to push them fwd, so they got replaced and moved 1.5" fwd. the longer shackles are still 45deg or less at max angle without moving the shackle pivot. also re-drilled the center pin hole in the spring perches by 1", for a total of 2.5" front stretch over both stock and what i was running prior. now 5.5" over stock for a nice 99" wheelbase.

[xj_man_646]

Do you think you'll need to relocate your steering box with the front stretch?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

Do you think you'll need to relocate your steering box with the front stretch?

undecided so far ... still waiting on parts to come in for the test fit. i ordered these high steer arms. my current plan-A would be a tie rod or double-ended ram that runs JUST under the leafs, mid connector bolt. the drag link could then run to the top of the arm over the leaf. let them live over top of each other but separated enough to never contact.

https://www.fourwheelsupply.net/coll...kle-tie-in-kit

[6DoF]

ULTIMATE goal ... is the 4500 style steering. servo to the double ended ram with a manual steering box and drink link still connected in.

[xj_man_646]

Do you want to maintain a mechanical connection just for the bling factor, or are there rules at play for whatever comps you plan to join? If you're already debating a double ended ram, I'd just go full hydro and never worry again.

[6DoF]

i'm really not sure on the steering rules for RC Rocks ... i should look into that.

the double ended ram makes all the sense in the world for power of steering, it's time, i need that. but having driven a full hydro rig back to camp while being towed, it SUUUUUXXXX. to that end, everyone i've talked to who has run the 4500 style has said the same thing. it has the steering feel and feed back of mechanical steering while racing, but the power of full hydro in the rocks. that just sounds pretty awesome.

also one more thing a cop couldn't hit me with if i drive this to work at some point. i do have a plate

[xj_man_646]

. Correct me if I am wrong, but the majority of 4400 rigs run full hydro, so there has to be a reason they don't bother with the mechanical linkage in the fastest class. Not that I think you should change your plans...do what you want .

Street driving makes some sense. I did see a full hydro steering 1 ton JK on 42's at the Tilted Kilt when I lived in MI, but I'm pretty sure he is generally OK because most of the cops around the Detroit metro have bigger fish to fry than the steering setup on a Jeep

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

. Correct me if I am wrong, but the majority of 4400 rigs run full hydro, so there has to be a reason they don't bother with the mechanical linkage in the fastest class. Not that I think you should change your plans...do what you want .

Street driving makes some sense. I did see a full hydro steering 1 ton JK on 42's at the Tilted Kilt when I lived in MI, but I'm pretty sure he is generally OK because most of the cops around the Detroit metro have bigger fish to fry than the steering setup on a Jeep

yeah, the complete lack of any fawks given in MI i miss ... "oh it has a plate? keep driving" ... "oh, you have a title from something you bought? good enough"

i think the biggest thing is with a 4-link double-triangulated front suspension vs the steering. the 4-link travels vertical, where the drag link would want to push with compression like a panhard bar. a nice full travel hit would swing the steering a bit with the 4500 style steering. i'm on leafs and a little bump steer doesn't matter to me ... 110mph across the lake bed, i'd care.

[xj_man_646]

I think it was Kurt on here who ran mechanical steering with a front 4 link and had no bumpsteer. Pretty sure that was the setup on his TJ.

I guess your logic could make sense though. Didn't think of that aspect.

The other part of full hydro that is attractive to me is no restrictions regarding the steering box or fighting between panhard and draglink lengths / angles (not that it is overly difficult to overcome, but things can get interesting once you start stretching wheelbase more than a couple inches)

[6DoF]

if you don't have crazy travel, and set the draglink set up JUST below flat at ride height, there's no reason it should be noticeable on the street. theoretically leaves without a panhard bar should act the same, or worse since the axle can move side to side some.

i feel like it's one of those "in good practice" kind of ideas that is only really an issue at the extremes. like when using 18" of axle vertical travel at 100mph. my 45mph, 10" of travel jeep probably couldn't care less.

[6DoF]

smashed out some fab stuff Friday, then cleaning and painting when i had a change to get out there the rest of the weekend. getting close enough i can taste it ... just need my axle guts order to show up.

[nblehm]

I'm always impressed with your pace of projects. When you get time you knock a bunch of stuff out

I vote 4500 steering, because I want to see how it works. Also I think you are right on in your thinking in your comment with bump steer. 2-5" of road travel no big deal. 100 mph suspension travelling 18" big deal.

It's been a long time since i have driven something with full hydro but i didn't mind it at all. The only time it really sucked was when the engine died and you have to steer that bitch out of a trail. End up with popeye forearms.

[6DoF]

Thanks! it feels so good to be back at it. my hands are cut up, i have metal splinters, grease i can't wash off that soaked into dry skin, etc. plus the fact that i feel more limber, and my endurance is coming back up off of none to a bit.

right now real steering is on hold, i need to get all the axle guts ordered and see what cash i don't have left.

[Cobound]

Bitchin...man, I wish I took that same initiative. Since driving back from CO a few years ago, on a trailer no less, and a bunch of road spray nailed all my undercarriage and turned to instant rust.

It literally went from a brand new vehicle to look like a winter driven rust ride instantly...and it had NEVER been on a winter road

I'd love to tear it down, respray, etc...but I'm just too damn lazy, and don't have the space I'd like to do it in.

Really appreciate seeing other's work tho, damn that stuff is nice!

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Cobound

Bitchin...man, I wish I took that same initiative. Since driving back from CO a few years ago, on a trailer no less, and a bunch of road spray nailed all my undercarriage and turned to instant rust.

and this is why i put them away in that weather.

you don't need to tear anything apart, you just need a wire brush, an air hose, and ChassisSaver!! (then a top coat of rustoleum cuz it's not UV stable)

[6DoF]

i'm really in a holding pattern now til i can get the axle guts i need. hopefully the axle gear install is a quick turn around local