Project: PapaBear

[6DoF]

Small update i guess, i did get the 5.13s in and can't really tell a differance over the 5.25s
as assumed, so no big deal. did go easy on them for a while, did change the fluid after 500 or so miles.

also, so i still had the same pads/rotors on the front axle as when i bought the jeep in 2010 since "i will just replace the whole axle real soon". when i got it back on the road with the FF 9" i just contributed the lame brakes to the old fronts. well, now that it'll be at least 2 years before i do the front axle with this house build i decided it was time to finally replace some parts. low and behold, didn't totally fix the issue. when i built the FF-9" axle i put on the sexy Wilwood dual piston D52 (old gm 1/2-ton) calipers but opted for the smaller piston "rear" version. well even with the adjustable proportioning valve all the way open, they were not enough force. so i just swapped back to stock d52 single piston and turned the prop valve all the way in again and they are just a tad much. i wish Wilwood made a D52 dual piston sized between the 2 current options ... oh well, better too much and know to be careful not to lock em then too little and no way to stop.

yes i still need big front brakes to balance it, but at least i now have the more correct rears.

[JEEPJERK]

TJ's truck has the fronts from a late 70's 1 ton on the back. It is way touchy....I have come in hot to an intersection and the light changes. No choice but to stand on 'em hard....once they lock, it's tough to get unlocked and back to a reasonable braking situation.
Everyone looks when you fly up to an intersection with the rears locked and the old MT/R's squealing like a mother.

[xj_man_646]

Originally Posted by JEEPJERK

TJ's truck has the fronts from a late 70's 1 ton on the back. It is way touchy....I have come in hot to an intersection and the light changes. No choice but to stand on 'em hard....once they lock, it's tough to get unlocked and back to a reasonable braking situation.
Everyone looks when you fly up to an intersection with the rears locked and the old MT/R's squealing like a mother.

It might be worth checking into stepping down to a 1/2 ton sized caliper for the rear. On the newer (GMT800) trucks, the front calipers from a 1500 are used on the rear of the 2500 HD. Might as well swap in one of the hydro boost units while you're at it

[6DoF]

yeah, i've locked up the back 2 different times on the street with this set up on the old axle ... once the lady didn't actually pull out, once the TJ ate a VW. i can still stop significantly shorter with lock-up then i could with too little pressure, this is why i wish i could get a middle ground caliper piston size. the difference is massive, 2.5x the area. and even though the stock single has more, the big dual is supposed to stop better still due to even pressure.

Total piston area:
Stock D52 ----- 6.78
front wilwood -- 6.28
Rear wilwood -- 2.46

part of me is thinking about taking apart these small wilwoods, having them machined bigger, and making a custom piston ... but that's not really priority.

EDIT:
Total piston area:
Cadillac ('76 -'78) Eldorado E-brake Calipers -- 4.55

EDIT V2:
Total piston area:
79-85 K20 JB7 front calipers -- 7.82 (metric banjo)

Edit again:
GM 1-ton caliper -- 8.90

[6DoF]

found that the Cadillac ('76 -'78) Eldorado E-brake Calipers might be the way to go ... but are $$$ at 3-4x the cost of standard d52's. you not only get the ebrake, but the piston area is 4.55. the perfect middle ground option!

[6DoF]

so this sh!t happened again ... the jeep is cursed!! this is a 1350 Spicer CV! WTF!?! i have been so much nicer to this shaft vs the old 1310, i don't get it. no clutch drops, no 1st gear launches, i only take off in 2nd (5.61:1 vs 3.04:1) and yet POP. there was no lead-up signals, just turned left from a stop sign and rolled into the throttle on 2nd gear, never even made it to WOT. left the shaft laying in the middle of the road.

i did clearance the crap out of the CV for more operation angle. there was no binding, the rust places are where i didn't repaint after grinding. it didn't fail anywhere near any place i had ground either. the 4-link is tight so i didn't get crazy pinion movement, and there was no tire spins so no wheel hop. the ONLY thing i can think is a spring clip left and a cap walked out.

[thezentree]

I don't know if you're posting pictures, but I can't see any of them.

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by thezentree

I don't know if you're posting pictures, but I can't see any of them.

James couldn't, and now you ... they are hosted on G+ since FB turns off the URL after a short while and all the rest suck and are blocked on the work computer :bang:

[Cobound]

I can see them...maybe you need to be logged into G+

My FB pix always work, what is your experience w/ the URL turned off, never heard of that

[nblehm]

I see pics

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Cobound

I can see them...maybe you need to be logged into G+

My FB pix always work, what is your experience w/ the URL turned off, never heard of that

can you still see pictures in the first few posts of this thread? i used to be able too ... how exactly do you post from FB then?

[6DoF]

talked to the driveline shop last night about the shaft ... guy straight up said "i've seen every failure and break possible, and i've never seen this"

SO, i decided to get a whole new shaft and have him bandaid the old one to have a spare. he says he'll fix the old one for free since i'm buying new, these have always been great guys, win. and since the 1350 needs clearanced to work right, he's actually going to clearance it for me before high speed balancing! it's going to be sooooo much better. he said he might not get 100% of everything i need clearanced, but he said he would get the majority of the worthless metal out of there before balancing.

[Cobound]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

can you still see pictures in the first few posts of this thread? i used to be able too ... how exactly do you post from FB then?

[bbaCJ8]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

talked to the driveline shop last night about the shaft ... guy straight up said "i've seen every failure and break possible, and i've never seen this"

SO, i decided to get a whole new shaft and have him bandaid the old one to have a spare. he says he'll fix the old one for free since i'm buying new, these have always been great guys, win. and since the 1350 needs clearanced to work right, he's actually going to clearance it for me before high speed balancing! it's going to be sooooo much better. he said he might not get 100% of everything i need clearanced, but he said he would get the majority of the worthless metal out of there before balancing.

Sounds like a great shop!

Your theory about the cap backing out makes the most sense. The trunion looks fine and I would hope the casting on the double cardan wasn't junk. Probably too much damage on the parts to do any kind of decent failure analysis or look for porosity. Given your track record with caps coming out, that's probably the most likely scenario.

[6DoF]

got the shafts back last night and he did good. the part that broke is much beefier on the new shaft and he made good clearance on most of the contact points. one last small area that hits the body of the joint and we'll be good. it's a small enough change close enough to center that it shouldn't effect balance much either.

my goal for tonight is to clearance both shafts to match, then get the new one in the jeep. this weekend i want to have all the factory jeep/gm AC parts installed and all the custom bits ordered.

[6DoF]

My birthday present from my parents came in, they got me the radio i wanted to upgrade too. i took the GenRight idea of the RZR radio in a jeep and did my own thing. so i got a marine radio, and just out of the box it looks 1000x better quality then any car audio i've seen. super excited to get it installed. it even came with a fit rubber cover for the remote head if it is to be installed on an outside boat helm, should also protect from mud

https://www.fusionentertainment.com/...nits/ms-bb300r

[Cobound]

Interesting.

[6DoF]

in order to finish installing all the factory GM/Jeep AC bits, i had to pull the lower rad hose ... well now that it's off i'm going to replace it and the heater hoses with stuff that sux less. once all that is back together i can then order the custom AC bits and start getting this radio in.

so by x-mas

[nblehm]

I want to put ac in my truck now with the lq4. I have a under the dash unit, but also might look at vintage air. Factory parts would be cheaper though

[6DoF]

since the jeep already had hvac with the evap in the dash, i just needed to get it hooked up under the hood.

so here's what i'm doing. i called Cold Hose (https://coldhose.com/) and talked to them. the woman who answered the phone like a secretary really knew her sh!t and helped me sort it out. i am using the stock condenser, a 97-98 accumulator (has different connections that are easier/cheaper to adapt to than 99+), stock orifice tube, the stock GM truck compressor on the LQ4 (down low, i cut the pass upper control arm mount off the axle for a stock 3-link), and the rest will be custom. coldhose has the hose ends and hose i need, along with the pressure switches.

bought the AC hose crimping tool since i'll need to do the '55 as well at least, and i plan to buy a full charge kit with vac pump.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and while this isn't quite scientific, it gets the basic idea across for wiring