2013 Ram 1500 Laramie - 5.7L w/ code P1004 - Short Runner Valve

[bbaCJ8]

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

Yeah that makes sense...as soon as the check engine light (MIL) comes on, OEM remote start won't work (at least on Chrysler products that I'm familiar with...2011+).

Same thing on newer GM, my wife's 09 Tahoe remote start wouldn't work when it was throwing a CEL for bad cat.

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

My manifold studs broke too, I took it in to get fixed, had to wait 4 months to get into their heavy repair section. In that time the other side let go as well. He said it would have been about $850 if I had to pay for it out of pocket!!

Seems to be a common trend for most of the aluminum head engines with cast iron manifolds....or at least the ones I've paid attention to. Got 2 in my driveway that need some studs replaced, but neither has caused any issues besides a tick at cold start so they haven't received any attention yet. Sounds like a project that can wait till spring.

[Cobound]

Yeah, I get the cold tick in the morning...otherwise it's not an issue.

Light just came on during startup this morning

I'll run my scanner on it when I get home tonight, see if it's the same thing. Pisses me off, I just had a few recalls done yesterday and they should've cleared everything from the computer.

Anyway, likely the same thing...super intermittent. Doesn't seem to run bad, already get poor fuel mileage so I don't know if it affects that or not. Either way, I'm keeping it until I see the Gladiator in person...and likely gonna have to keep it anyway cuz of costs

[xj_man_646]

Originally Posted by bbaCJ8

Same thing on newer GM, my wife's 09 Tahoe remote start wouldn't work when it was throwing a CEL for bad cat.


Seems to be a common trend for most of the aluminum head engines with cast iron manifolds....or at least the ones I've paid attention to. Got 2 in my driveway that need some studs replaced, but neither has caused any issues besides a tick at cold start so they haven't received any attention yet. Sounds like a project that can wait till spring.

For whatever reason, the 6.0L in the gmt800 2500/3500s seems to be the application with most common manifold issue. My '04 had the issue, but my '05 1500 with the all aluminum 5.3 does not even after almost 290k miles. I honestly have no idea why this trend exists...

Originally Posted by Cobound

I'll run my scanner on it when I get home tonight, see if it's the same thing. Pisses me off, I just had a few recalls done yesterday and they should've cleared everything from the computer.

They probably did. You probably set a pending fault on your way home, and it kicked the MIL on when you started it up this morning. A lot of diagnostics require fault detection over two drive cycles to turn on the light. Some diagnostics only require 1, such as catalyst damaging misfire (usually also a blinking light), or severe electrical issues could also trigger the MIL right away, but I'm guessing this one is a two trip MIL.

[Blue XJ]

I know it is purely coincidental but right after I had the studs replaced in mine, it threw a CEL for no fuel pressure, however it ran just fine. Dealer wanted $320 to replace the fuel pressure sensor. I bought the part for $85 from the dealer and spent a whopping 15 minutes replacing it. I really don't know how dealers still get customers in for service.

[bbaCJ8]

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

For whatever reason, the 6.0L in the gmt800 2500/3500s seems to be the application with most common manifold issue. My '04 had the issue, but my '05 1500 with the all aluminum 5.3 does not even after almost 290k miles. I honestly have no idea why this trend exists...

At a guess, it's an issue of differing materials with differing coefficients of thermal expansions. Aluminum expands and contracts at different rates than cast iron, which expands and contracts at different rates than high strength steel bolts/studs. Add in some galvanic corrosion and extreme heat cycles and you've got a lot of stress. Maybe even stress corrosion playing a role. Or maybe they just spec'd out the wrong kind of fastener. Something too strong may be too brittle to survive the heat cycles and varying CTEs over time. Something too soft that easily survives the varying CTEs may not have enough ultimate strength to survive.

[Blue XJ]

Now that's an engineering answer if I ever heard one! But I agree 100%. The manifold design plays a role in it too, it's really only common on the trucks, the cars dont see stud failure as often. I assume the truck manifolds might be thicker in the mounting area not allowing them to expand/contract as much as the car manifolds.

[Dennis]

Can't comment on the technical issues with the manifold, but I got the infamous ticking on my pentastar a few months ago. 50K miles but 5 years one month of ownership. . My JKU is just out of the vin range for the recall, but I argued with Mopar and the covered 90% of the charges for all new valves and two camshafts. I'd call the dealer and see what they can do. Mopar Customer Care to get the ball rolling is 800-521-9922

[nblehm]

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

I know it is purely coincidental but right after I had the studs replaced in mine, it threw a CEL for no fuel pressure, however it ran just fine. Dealer wanted $320 to replace the fuel pressure sensor. I bought the part for $85 from the dealer and spent a whopping 15 minutes replacing it. I really don't know how dealers still get customers in for service.

I bet the last steak at a steakhouse was the same price as the grocery store.

[bbaCJ8]

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

Now that's an engineering answer if I ever heard one! But I agree 100%. The manifold design plays a role in it too, it's really only common on the trucks, the cars dont see stud failure as often. I assume the truck manifolds might be thicker in the mounting area not allowing them to expand/contract as much as the car manifolds.

I doubt it's the mounting flange thickness as much as everything surrounding and attached to them, but maybe that's part of it too. The chassis mounts of the engine, the exhaust system, and the design of the exhaust system itself can all play a role. I imagine a unibody car has entirely different engine and exhaust mounts/isolators than a body-on-frame truck/SUV. The unibody car dampers are probably softer and more supple to mask more issues. This probably allows freer movement and puts less stresses back into the exhaust system and its mounts(the manifolds). The body-on-frame truck basically has an extra set of rubber isolators between the chassis and frame to ward off additional NVH issues from the occupants. 100% theory on that one, but makes sense in my head.

[Blue XJ]

Originally Posted by nblehm

I bet the last steak at a steakhouse was the same price as the grocery store.

I see what your saying, but really, almost $250 in labor for something that took me 15 minutes?? Unclip the fuel line from the rail, unclip the sensor and then reconnect. I could see 1 hours labor at a minimum, but not $250.

[xj_man_646]

Originally Posted by bbaCJ8

At a guess, it's an issue of differing materials with differing coefficients of thermal expansions. Aluminum expands and contracts at different rates than cast iron, which expands and contracts at different rates than high strength steel bolts/studs. Add in some galvanic corrosion and extreme heat cycles and you've got a lot of stress. Maybe even stress corrosion playing a role. Or maybe they just spec'd out the wrong kind of fastener. Something too strong may be too brittle to survive the heat cycles and varying CTEs over time. Something too soft that easily survives the varying CTEs may not have enough ultimate strength to survive.

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

Now that's an engineering answer if I ever heard one! But I agree 100%. The manifold design plays a role in it too, it's really only common on the trucks, the cars dont see stud failure as often. I assume the truck manifolds might be thicker in the mounting area not allowing them to expand/contract as much as the car manifolds.

I agree, but why the issue on the 6.0L and not the 5.3L? I haven't looked into the differences between the manifolds on the 1500 vs 2500 but it is still odd in my mind...especially for how common it is on a 6.0L

[nblehm]

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

I see what your saying, but really, almost $250 in labor for something that took me 15 minutes?? Unclip the fuel line from the rail, unclip the sensor and then reconnect. I could see 1 hours labor at a minimum, but not $250.

Labor rates here (according to my shop owner, haven't checked) at dealers are around 170-190 an hour.

Originally Posted by xj_man_646

I agree, but why the issue on the 6.0L and not the 5.3L? I haven't looked into the differences between the manifolds on the 1500 vs 2500 but it is still odd in my mind...especially for how common it is on a 6.0L

I see just as many broken 5.3 bolts. Most commonly the Driver side rear bolt. Followed by pass rear, then drivers front. Manifolds and I believe y pipes are all the same.

[xj_man_646]

Originally Posted by nblehm

I see just as many broken 5.3 bolts. Most commonly the Driver side rear bolt. Followed by pass rear, then drivers front. Manifolds and I believe y pipes are all the same.

Interesting. I've never seen a ticking 5.3L on the roads, but everyone I know with a 6.0L has or had the issue. I'll keep crossing my fingers for my 5.3L. Coming up on 290k miles now

[Blue XJ]

Originally Posted by nblehm

Labor rates here (according to my shop owner, haven't checked) at dealers are around 170-190 an hour.

That's insane, hard to believe people wouldn't just hit the independent shops to save some cash. But even at $190 an hour, they are still grossly over charging for the job.

I think the dealers by me charge $125 an hour.

[Cobound]

Stealerships.

Light is back on, drove it a few cycles and no change. Haven't driven it since Thursday, hopped in today and it's still on.

I'll be running my scanner again tonight to see if it's the same thing...likely.

[xj_man_646]

So, are you going to fix it?

[Cobound]

Yep.

[Blue XJ]

He has a scanner, he can just shut it off!

The only reason I fixed that FP issue on mine was because the remote start stopped working, and it's single digit highs here the last few days!

[xj_man_646]

Originally Posted by Cobound

Yep.

[Cobound]

Originally Posted by Blue XJ

He has a scanner, he can just shut it off!

The only reason I fixed that FP issue on mine was because the remote start stopped working, and it's single digit highs here the last few days!

Yeah, my remote start stopped working some time ago...this doesn't help it any. I just cleared room in the garage for me to get back in there tho, so that helps.