PolarYJ: NextGen - Page 4

6DoF · 03-26-2020, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobound

Those switches are nice...use them on my JK, they were installed by the PO and I like them. I use CO2 for my lockers, a small Powertank setup, super slick.

the CO2 tank i think is my goal. i have a keg-orator, i think 20lb, CO2 cylinder from college and a poly performance 150psi reg. thinking i should have mounted that years go in the jeep, so it's time.

on the other hand, the engine still has the AC compressor mount. an engine driven compressor might also be the ticket.

nblehm · 03-26-2020, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6DoF

also, while RuffStuff no longer sells the rear axle flange for the front spindles ... i've been informed of a place that still does. i completely forget who right now, but Eric at EMS offroad knows. he's THE man for anything axle related from tech to options and the experience to back it up. great dude, just hard to get a hold of some time. last time we threw around ideas of how i might have done these axles differently, worth a call for ya i suspect.

I actually think I found some this morning. Check out diamond axles page. The description sucks but the look right

http://www.diamondaxle.com/parts.htm

6DoF · 03-26-2020, 02:52 PM

how much are they? when i click the "buy at" link it's a dead link.

i sent Eric a txt to see who it was ... right now i'm thinking it was Branik, but you had to call them to order, wasn't on the website.

nblehm · 03-26-2020, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6DoF

how much are they? when i click the "buy at" link it's a dead link.

i sent Eric a txt to see who it was ... right now i'm thinking it was Branik, but you had to call them to order, wasn't on the website.

150

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/ful...-housing-ends/

6DoF · 03-26-2020, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nblehm

150

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/ful...-housing-ends/

shoot, that aint bad.

6DoF · 03-26-2020, 03:27 PM

one thing Eric talked about was using a D50 spindle and hub since you could get them for dirt cheap. but i don't know what that means for brakes.

i used the TMR 3/4ton caliper bracket for GM d60. however, the dodge hubs i used have a different rotor offset vs the spindle flange. i accounted for this by actually mounting the TMR bracket to the back side of the spindle flange. had to cut the bracket to fit over the axle tube and only used 4 bolts then. it's about 1/16" off from perfect, but the caliper slides don't care. on the TJ i did make a spacer, but not on the YJ. you'd have to figure the difference for the different flange thickness if doing similar to me.

6DoF · 03-26-2020, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nblehm

150

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/ful...-housing-ends/

eric didn't respond with who, but he has a pair in stock. should really give him a call to talk shop anyways ... he always has some great tip or info.

http://emsoffroad.com/

Eric Startzel, he runs the joint, just ask for Eric

Blue XJ · 03-26-2020, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6DoF

the CO2 tank i think is my goal. i have a keg-orator, i think 20lb, CO2 cylinder from college and a poly performance 150psi reg. thinking i should have mounted that years go in the jeep, so it's time.

on the other hand, the engine still has the AC compressor mount. an engine driven compressor might also be the ticket.

I used a CO2 tank for a while and then switched to OBA. I Used the OBA for my ARB's, and quick pullups, but I primarily used the CO2 tank for full tire fill ups and air tools. I had a 3 gallon tank mounted under the bed for my OBA as well, with an air chuck in each bumper.

6DoF · 03-27-2020, 08:59 AM

i'll actually be using a cordless DeWALT pancake compressor for now

6DoF · 04-01-2020, 06:49 AM

few small updates ... really been working on my tractor, the yard, and my GMC. so got the rear fenders cut and i'm pretty happy with em. not a full comp-cut, still lots of clearance, but has that full-boddied look. i've had issues with the inner axle seals on the TJ, so decided i would pre-stretch them for easier install. can't hurt right? 1.5" shafts, so 1.5" tube that i polished up a bit. the new rear 3rd showed up with the ZIP locker and 5.40s, just need to drill in the air line bulkhead and bolt this thing in!

-assemble rear axle
-drive shafts
-"turn" brakes
-bleed brakes
-DRIVE IT ... and flex it to measure
-new shock mounts / order shocks
-*hopefully not* all new bump stops since i've never run any

-then drive around in the yard cuz the wheelin trip got canceled

6DoF · 04-05-2020, 08:13 PM

this air line routing feels stupid, but is what the directions, and Eric said to do. also managed to get this bulkhead fitting in without stripping it this time, haha.

then the MOSER shafts came in and one was long, good thing they had extra splines cuz my custom length shafts had to be cut down by .75". got a nice little slug for my desk at work now.

cut up the old rear drive shaft and added an inch for the new front. sleeved inside with the plug welds. she'll last more than long enough to work out all the details to order good new shafts. for a 2pc drive shaft and a stock axle pinion support, that's not a bad angle.

then, du da DA! she lives!!! still needs shock mounts to be trail ready, and eventually a real air system. of course i still have a full list of future plans

6DoF · 04-05-2020, 08:29 PM

brakes are a little spongy, but the front calipers are so much bigger it can't be unexpected.

gears vs tires feels pretty good, but i guess we won't know til i'm on the trail.

steering is week for sure, but is what it is. it's quicker than before, and turning more crap this time. feels fine while driving it, but 4x4 with both lockers in that **** feels like manual steering.

nblehm · 04-09-2020, 08:50 PM

6DoF · 04-22-2020, 11:14 AM

home from NC ... but going back next week. i had to miss the wheelin trip i had planned, and kinda dragged this wrap-up out a little bit.

dug into shocks finally. figured out all the new mounts n lengths, going to use the same Bilstien 5125's front and rear. also sticking with the 90s Ford f350 upper mounts, but cutting them down a bunch. rear will get out-boarded and half frenched into the frame now. steering needs a little frame notch, after wiggling the jeep around it settled down and touched. i'll also cut the misalignment spacers down by 1/4" without effecting their travel.

while looking at it all and only doing this once as a final solution, i decided to cut off the rear frame spring hangers like i did the front for HD hangers. will also be moving them back another 1" for a new total rear stretch of 4". the rear DS i have in it is on the long side, so no need to even change it.

Hoofmann · 04-23-2020, 11:31 AM

Looking good!

Any plans for the steering arms? While Chevy knuckles are a bit stronger than the Ford ones on my Jeep, the studs are also a weak point, especially when you add hydraulic steering. The keyed knuckles and hi-steer arms seem to be the best solution.

Also, I love that rear 9" build with the 8-lug, full float outers. Makes me want one.

6DoF · 04-23-2020, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoofmann

Looking good!

Any plans for the steering arms? While Chevy knuckles are a bit stronger than the Ford ones on my Jeep, the studs are also a weak point, especially when you add hydraulic steering. The keyed knuckles and hi-steer arms seem to be the best solution.

Also, I love that rear 9" build with the 8-lug, full float outers. Makes me want one.

Thanks! fawk i'm excited to go play!

right now i'm not doing anything special with the arms. they are non-keyed basic arms, springless, but they are drilled for the 5th bolt. with the 3/4" tie bolt going to the factory steer arm, and the tie rod being way closer to the factory arm than the high steer, i'm much less concerned. my only thought right now has been to run a nut/bolt into the 5th hole and then weld the nut hard solid to the knuckle.

i really love this rear axle design, it's why i duplicated it to the YJ from the TJ. my only complaints are around the seals. the inner seals actually took me a pretty good learning curve, think i have em now. the pre-lube and assembly order are KEY. also the main spindle seal on the hub isn't made to be an oil bath, just grease. so when the inners leak ... the outer will.

Hoofmann · 04-23-2020, 05:10 PM

I just went back through the thread and see that you have the bolt through the factory steering arm. Should be fine.

nblehm · 04-24-2020, 02:30 PM

Pshh, I used to lift my rig by turning the wheels when it was on its side. Stock knuckles

6DoF · 04-27-2020, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nblehm

Pshh, I used to lift my rig by turning the wheels when it was on its side. Stock knuckles

6DoF · 05-12-2020, 08:28 AM

so i got WAY wrapped up in work recently, and that's where i usually post updates

the shocks all on, same shocks f/r to make things easy. though, with them outboard in the back it is a bit over-damped back there. not that i drive it over 5mph much, but some more weight would help this and balance things out. for more protection i already have some corner guards that i've never put on, as well as i'm getting a free fold-down Poison Spyder tire carrier to put on it. better protection, balance, looks good, etc.

i used the f-350 towers and cut them up as needed. back was frenched in 1" to help tire clearance.

03-26-2020, 03:27 PM	#66
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	one thing Eric talked about was using a D50 spindle and hub since you could get them for dirt cheap. but i don't know what that means for brakes. i used the TMR 3/4ton caliper bracket for GM d60. however, the dodge hubs i used have a different rotor offset vs the spindle flange. i accounted for this by actually mounting the TMR bracket to the back side of the spindle flange. had to cut the bracket to fit over the axle tube and only used 4 bolts then. it's about 1/16" off from perfect, but the caliper slides don't care. on the TJ i did make a spacer, but not on the YJ. you'd have to figure the difference for the different flange thickness if doing similar to me. Last edited by 6DoF; 03-26-2020 at 03:31 PM.

04-23-2020, 05:10 PM	#77
Hoofmann AKA: Kebo Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 7,822	I just went back through the thread and see that you have the bolt through the factory steering arm. Should be fine. Last edited by Hoofmann; 04-27-2020 at 03:35 PM.

03-26-2020, 02:52 PM	#63
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	how much are they? when i click the "buy at" link it's a dead link. i sent Eric a txt to see who it was ... right now i'm thinking it was Branik, but you had to call them to order, wasn't on the website.

03-27-2020, 08:59 AM	#69
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	i'll actually be using a cordless DeWALT pancake compressor for now

04-01-2020, 06:49 AM	#70
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	few small updates ... really been working on my tractor, the yard, and my GMC. so got the rear fenders cut and i'm pretty happy with em. not a full comp-cut, still lots of clearance, but has that full-boddied look. i've had issues with the inner axle seals on the TJ, so decided i would pre-stretch them for easier install. can't hurt right? 1.5" shafts, so 1.5" tube that i polished up a bit. the new rear 3rd showed up with the ZIP locker and 5.40s, just need to drill in the air line bulkhead and bolt this thing in! -assemble rear axle -drive shafts -"turn" brakes -bleed brakes -DRIVE IT ... and flex it to measure -new shock mounts / order shocks -hopefully not all new bump stops since i've never run any -then drive around in the yard cuz the wheelin trip got canceled

04-05-2020, 08:13 PM	#71
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	this air line routing feels stupid, but is what the directions, and Eric said to do. also managed to get this bulkhead fitting in without stripping it this time, haha. then the MOSER shafts came in and one was long, good thing they had extra splines cuz my custom length shafts had to be cut down by .75". got a nice little slug for my desk at work now. cut up the old rear drive shaft and added an inch for the new front. sleeved inside with the plug welds. she'll last more than long enough to work out all the details to order good new shafts. for a 2pc drive shaft and a stock axle pinion support, that's not a bad angle. then, du da DA! she lives!!! still needs shock mounts to be trail ready, and eventually a real air system. of course i still have a full list of future plans

04-05-2020, 08:29 PM	#72
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	brakes are a little spongy, but the front calipers are so much bigger it can't be unexpected. gears vs tires feels pretty good, but i guess we won't know til i'm on the trail. steering is week for sure, but is what it is. it's quicker than before, and turning more crap this time. feels fine while driving it, but 4x4 with both lockers in that **** feels like manual steering.

04-09-2020, 08:50 PM	#73
nblehm Needs moar dagger Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 26,780

04-22-2020, 11:14 AM	#74
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	home from NC ... but going back next week. i had to miss the wheelin trip i had planned, and kinda dragged this wrap-up out a little bit. dug into shocks finally. figured out all the new mounts n lengths, going to use the same Bilstien 5125's front and rear. also sticking with the 90s Ford f350 upper mounts, but cutting them down a bunch. rear will get out-boarded and half frenched into the frame now. steering needs a little frame notch, after wiggling the jeep around it settled down and touched. i'll also cut the misalignment spacers down by 1/4" without effecting their travel. while looking at it all and only doing this once as a final solution, i decided to cut off the rear frame spring hangers like i did the front for HD hangers. will also be moving them back another 1" for a new total rear stretch of 4". the rear DS i have in it is on the long side, so no need to even change it.

04-23-2020, 11:31 AM	#75
Hoofmann AKA: Kebo Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 7,822	Looking good! Any plans for the steering arms? While Chevy knuckles are a bit stronger than the Ford ones on my Jeep, the studs are also a weak point, especially when you add hydraulic steering. The keyed knuckles and hi-steer arms seem to be the best solution. Also, I love that rear 9" build with the 8-lug, full float outers. Makes me want one.

04-24-2020, 02:30 PM	#78
nblehm Needs moar dagger Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 26,780	Pshh, I used to lift my rig by turning the wheels when it was on its side. Stock knuckles

05-12-2020, 08:28 AM	#80
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,862	so i got WAY wrapped up in work recently, and that's where i usually post updates the shocks all on, same shocks f/r to make things easy. though, with them outboard in the back it is a bit over-damped back there. not that i drive it over 5mph much, but some more weight would help this and balance things out. for more protection i already have some corner guards that i've never put on, as well as i'm getting a free fold-down Poison Spyder tire carrier to put on it. better protection, balance, looks good, etc. i used the f-350 towers and cut them up as needed. back was frenched in 1" to help tire clearance.