'55 Chevy 3800 Cummins - Page 6

6DoF · 02-15-2021, 09:45 PM

so i did return the 30" natural finish steering column and got a 28" all black. the 3 different materials/textures of the natural was pissing me off, and the less 2" should put me only JUST thru the firewall for better steering shaft angles.

so funny story, i returned it directly to the Summit Racing warehouse where i like to go thru the scratch n dent pile. well they got rid of it, and that sux, hopefully coming back after renovations cuz even the staff was pissed. so i'm getting my gift card credit at the cashier and with no one else in line i ask for some extra help. their online order history is only 3 years and i've already lost access to orders i made for this truck. i asked if she could print out my entire order history for me to scan back into a PDF. sure thing! so she proceeds to then tell my wife how much i've spent at summit racing since 2013.

so i set about getting the 12V placement figured, that was a b!tch. at one point i got it stuck between the chassis and cab and had to just start cutting, but at least it was stuff i needed to eventually cut anyways. it "fits". engine/trans and chassis are sitting on separate jack stands ready for mounts. i have them all drawn up, but need to get the plate cut now ... i really need my own plasma table ...

firewall reference for how far back it is, the #6 cylinder is totally behind it. the '55 AL radiator is in basically the stock placement to check clearance, and there is some. fun fact: there is 11" from the rocker of a 1955 chevy truck up to the under side of the floor. and yet, with an nv5600 sitting on the ground it still requires cutting! that trans is literally in there with the bottom parallel to the ground and the same 0.5" above the bottom of the frame that the rockers are.

please excuse the second "rock out selfie" ... it just keeps happening!

:metal:

Cobound · 02-16-2021, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6DoF

so funny story, i returned it directly to the Summit Racing warehouse where i like to go thru the scratch n dent pile. well they got rid of it, and that sux, hopefully coming back after renovations cuz even the staff was pissed. so i'm getting my gift card credit at the cashier and with no one else in line i ask for some extra help. their online order history is only 3 years and i've already lost access to orders i made for this truck. i asked if she could print out my entire order history for me to scan back into a PDF. sure thing! so she proceeds to then tell my wife how much i've spent at summit racing since 2013.

OOPS

Nice sweatshirt

6DoF · 02-26-2021, 07:34 AM

so i'll be really disappointed if i never get the chance to throw way too many PSI's at this motor. with that in mind, and my current record of blowing out drive shafts, i wanted to make sure i gave this every chance to live. enter the 1410 series u-joints, ram used them factory on some HD applications and is what the truck-pull guys will upgrade to as well.

i need a 2pc drive shaft just for length alone, and to get out from under the cab easier. i also wanted a CV rear shaft with the CV flange fixed right at the truck arm pivot. this would give me the "perfect" shaft angle thru the entire range of travel. this all meant that i needed a fixed carrier bearing at a different angle than the forward shaft, really you could maybe call this a 3pc drive shaft. the carrier bearing or mid shaft, will be at the same 6.5deg as the transmission and have a standard shaft between the trans to bearing. the bearing will be fixed to the chassis and give me the fixed CV flange output to the axle.

so Branik Motorsports sells this ultimate carrier bearing for KOH rigs. however they only sell it with a standard yoke on both ends. Dodge used a 1410 CV in the front of some 4x4 trucks, and dimensionally i figured it could be used in the assembly. i bought a used yoke, mailed it to Branik, and they machined it to work! 32spline chromoly shaft, shimmed bearing pre-load, and ready to weld in. can't weld it with the bearings in there, so once it's fit i'll pack it with grease and install the seals.

6DoF · 02-26-2021, 07:34 AM

new power steering pump n bracket to delete the factory vacuum pump gives me all kinds of room for motor mounts! and one less oil leak.

drew up the shock mounts. decided to use RS9000XL shocks for the adjustability, so i hit up service and got a PDF with every shock they make listed with lengths and eye's. took a bit to go thru, but found some.

also sandblasted a factory bezel before i made a backing to mount gauges. the plate is actually CORTEN and will most likely get a clearcoat to keep that look. at this point i'm leaning towards one gps Speedhut speedo centered low, and 2 Banks iDash datalogging gauges above. can display anything and everything i'd ever want, plus datalog and tune the 12v when i start playing with it. i probably won't order those until i get the body back on the chassis for good though.

xj_man_646 · 02-26-2021, 08:27 AM

Looking good.

You should get one of those in-cab adjustable fuel plates. If I had a 12V I would get one no question.

https://puredieselpower.com/12-valve...uel-plate.html

6DoF · 02-26-2021, 09:58 AM

interesting, i had not seen that before.

this is what i had seen:
https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/afc-live-gauge/

ultimately however, both are only doing one thing. they limit the max travel of the AFC and therefor limit the max fueling available. one physically moves the end stop, one interrupts the boost reference and limits the max PSI to the pump. one of the first steps in tuning a p-pump is to set the AFC spring/plate so that it achieves desired max travel (based on your possible fueling) at your max boost. limiting the psi will limit the travel just like putting in a physical stop.

so for $30 i bought a precision parker air pressure regulator with air blead and will stick it in-line with the boost reference. i'll also copy the AFC-Live guys and have a bypass valve switch. unfortunately it's not really a linear or proportional tuning reduction, just turns off the stupid zone. the AFC-Live also includes an orifice valve though, so you do have some control over how quickly the max psi you set is shown to the pump. combined these help make a 1000hp truck more street-able by giving you a simulated better throttle resolution.

the best solution would be to have variable in-cab control over the AFC spring rate, but i've never seen that. tune the truck right for "race mode" then use something to limit that for "street mode"

6DoF · 02-26-2021, 10:46 AM

i still have a TON to learn about tuning the p-pump. it truly has mechanical provisions to basically tune every aspect of fueling. the base fueling, the max fueling, the fueling profile thru the RPM range with 2 different profiles based on either partial or full throttle, psi proportional increase, timing, pressure of delivery, etc etc

xj_man_646 · 02-26-2021, 02:59 PM

Injection timing is the main thing I do not understand about direct injection engines. I know you can really screw sh1t up if you get that wrong, though.

6DoF · 02-26-2021, 04:05 PM

Haha, right! Well it seams like everybody and their brother goes to 18 to 20deg, so im going to shoot for 19. Factory is 12

6DoF · 03-02-2021, 08:05 AM

oooohhhhh yeah! she officially holds her own face finally!

you might also notice that i chopped out the rad mount and welded it back in. it used to stand proud of the support, but i made it flush to gain another 1/2" of clearance. was going to go further, but this was easier and still helped.

Cobound · 03-02-2021, 11:01 AM

Can't wait to see this thing do it's first burnout

I just got my JK home, need to pull the grille and mount the winch box again...or move the cooler from the Hemi install...hmmm...seems like childsplay compared to this

6DoF · 03-02-2021, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobound

Can't wait to see this thing do it's first burnout

me too!!!

Sir Sam · 03-03-2021, 09:22 AM

Looking good.

6DoF · 03-03-2021, 02:13 PM

so that's not going ANYwhere. a little alignment, a little more strap rubber, a few hoses, n fill it.

6DoF · 03-08-2021, 06:35 AM

she now holds the 12v! I'm super happy with the fit/function of these mounts, they aren't going anywhere. but they just lack something, they don't have the same style as other bits on the truck. they are missing with my eye, but unless i come up with something super easy, they aren't getting changed. front of the crank sits 1/2" passenger, and the trans output is 1/4" passenger to help gain clearance for the starter (and a throttle pedal)

6DoF · 03-08-2021, 06:36 AM

"Make the noise!"

6DoF · 03-08-2021, 08:46 PM

YYYEEEEAAAAAAAHHHHHSSSSSSSSS!!

I might have done some things out of order n had to re-do em ... But she's officially hanging. The crossmember should be good for the chassis, was easy in n out, and won't let that trans go anywhere.

I love the flat belly pics, b/c racecar

6DoF · 03-12-2021, 07:36 PM

made some shocking progress this evening

6DoF · 03-12-2021, 07:37 PM

got the carrier bearing mounted finally now that i knew the angle of the trans output. the sucky part is that i have to knock the bearing races out to fully weld it.

i do have some drive shafts i can start cutting up for temporary bits for the first test drive and sorting everything out.

6DoF · 03-12-2021, 07:40 PM

one thing i really want this to be is reasonable to drive for long distances on the highway. that's going to require a new rear gear to really get there, but I'm starting with noise and heat. while researching mufflers and killing drone on big exhaust for the 12v, the ONLY thing that everyone agreed on was that these resonator/mufflers are the best thing going. even adding another standard muffler after it for a great note that is actually more quite then factory in the cab. but it looks super screwy

my next issue is getting a 5" exhaust to go anywhere reasonable. i have always planned to run it down outside the frame on the passenger side with a side exit in front of the running board. the running board might now get scrapped for a 2nd muffler, but i'll save that for later. the real issue is going to be getting the exhaust around the frame, tire, shock, and body! if building this frame again, i'd move the 45deg section back by 3" to gain enough space to turn a 90 in plane with the ground and then turn a 90 straight up inside to the turbo. as it stands though, i have 5.5" between the floor and frame. i was thinking maybe i would just run a 4" down to the rocker, but now maybe i can crush a 5" down to a 4" tall oval locally there. we'll see, this will be a project.

02-15-2021, 09:45 PM	#101
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	so i did return the 30" natural finish steering column and got a 28" all black. the 3 different materials/textures of the natural was pissing me off, and the less 2" should put me only JUST thru the firewall for better steering shaft angles. so funny story, i returned it directly to the Summit Racing warehouse where i like to go thru the scratch n dent pile. well they got rid of it, and that sux, hopefully coming back after renovations cuz even the staff was pissed. so i'm getting my gift card credit at the cashier and with no one else in line i ask for some extra help. their online order history is only 3 years and i've already lost access to orders i made for this truck. i asked if she could print out my entire order history for me to scan back into a PDF. sure thing! so she proceeds to then tell my wife how much i've spent at summit racing since 2013. so i set about getting the 12V placement figured, that was a b!tch. at one point i got it stuck between the chassis and cab and had to just start cutting, but at least it was stuff i needed to eventually cut anyways. it "fits". engine/trans and chassis are sitting on separate jack stands ready for mounts. i have them all drawn up, but need to get the plate cut now ... i really need my own plasma table ... firewall reference for how far back it is, the #6 cylinder is totally behind it. the '55 AL radiator is in basically the stock placement to check clearance, and there is some. fun fact: there is 11" from the rocker of a 1955 chevy truck up to the under side of the floor. and yet, with an nv5600 sitting on the ground it still requires cutting! that trans is literally in there with the bottom parallel to the ground and the same 0.5" above the bottom of the frame that the rockers are. please excuse the second "rock out selfie" ... it just keeps happening! :metal: Last edited by 6DoF; 02-16-2021 at 05:54 AM.

02-26-2021, 08:27 AM	#105
xj_man_646 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: MN Posts: 27,350	Looking good. You should get one of those in-cab adjustable fuel plates. If I had a 12V I would get one no question. https://puredieselpower.com/12-valve...uel-plate.html __________________ - James I like diesels

02-26-2021, 09:58 AM	#106
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	interesting, i had not seen that before. this is what i had seen: https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/afc-live-gauge/ ultimately however, both are only doing one thing. they limit the max travel of the AFC and therefor limit the max fueling available. one physically moves the end stop, one interrupts the boost reference and limits the max PSI to the pump. one of the first steps in tuning a p-pump is to set the AFC spring/plate so that it achieves desired max travel (based on your possible fueling) at your max boost. limiting the psi will limit the travel just like putting in a physical stop. so for $30 i bought a precision parker air pressure regulator with air blead and will stick it in-line with the boost reference. i'll also copy the AFC-Live guys and have a bypass valve switch. unfortunately it's not really a linear or proportional tuning reduction, just turns off the stupid zone. the AFC-Live also includes an orifice valve though, so you do have some control over how quickly the max psi you set is shown to the pump. combined these help make a 1000hp truck more street-able by giving you a simulated better throttle resolution. the best solution would be to have variable in-cab control over the AFC spring rate, but i've never seen that. tune the truck right for "race mode" then use something to limit that for "street mode" Last edited by 6DoF; 02-26-2021 at 10:37 AM.

02-26-2021, 02:59 PM	#108
xj_man_646 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: MN Posts: 27,350	Injection timing is the main thing I do not understand about direct injection engines. I know you can really screw sh1t up if you get that wrong, though. __________________ - James I like diesels

03-02-2021, 11:01 AM	#111
Cobound - The Don - Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: MN Posts: 48,390	Can't wait to see this thing do it's first burnout I just got my JK home, need to pull the grille and mount the winch box again...or move the cooler from the Hemi install...hmmm...seems like childsplay compared to this __________________ To each his own. Not all those who wander are lost. The great irony - triggered snowflakes accusing triggered snowflakes of being triggered snowflakes

02-26-2021, 07:34 AM	#103
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	so i'll be really disappointed if i never get the chance to throw way too many PSI's at this motor. with that in mind, and my current record of blowing out drive shafts, i wanted to make sure i gave this every chance to live. enter the 1410 series u-joints, ram used them factory on some HD applications and is what the truck-pull guys will upgrade to as well. i need a 2pc drive shaft just for length alone, and to get out from under the cab easier. i also wanted a CV rear shaft with the CV flange fixed right at the truck arm pivot. this would give me the "perfect" shaft angle thru the entire range of travel. this all meant that i needed a fixed carrier bearing at a different angle than the forward shaft, really you could maybe call this a 3pc drive shaft. the carrier bearing or mid shaft, will be at the same 6.5deg as the transmission and have a standard shaft between the trans to bearing. the bearing will be fixed to the chassis and give me the fixed CV flange output to the axle. so Branik Motorsports sells this ultimate carrier bearing for KOH rigs. however they only sell it with a standard yoke on both ends. Dodge used a 1410 CV in the front of some 4x4 trucks, and dimensionally i figured it could be used in the assembly. i bought a used yoke, mailed it to Branik, and they machined it to work! 32spline chromoly shaft, shimmed bearing pre-load, and ready to weld in. can't weld it with the bearings in there, so once it's fit i'll pack it with grease and install the seals.

02-26-2021, 07:34 AM	#104
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	new power steering pump n bracket to delete the factory vacuum pump gives me all kinds of room for motor mounts! and one less oil leak. drew up the shock mounts. decided to use RS9000XL shocks for the adjustability, so i hit up service and got a PDF with every shock they make listed with lengths and eye's. took a bit to go thru, but found some. also sandblasted a factory bezel before i made a backing to mount gauges. the plate is actually CORTEN and will most likely get a clearcoat to keep that look. at this point i'm leaning towards one gps Speedhut speedo centered low, and 2 Banks iDash datalogging gauges above. can display anything and everything i'd ever want, plus datalog and tune the 12v when i start playing with it. i probably won't order those until i get the body back on the chassis for good though.

02-26-2021, 10:46 AM	#107
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	i still have a TON to learn about tuning the p-pump. it truly has mechanical provisions to basically tune every aspect of fueling. the base fueling, the max fueling, the fueling profile thru the RPM range with 2 different profiles based on either partial or full throttle, psi proportional increase, timing, pressure of delivery, etc etc

02-26-2021, 04:05 PM	#109
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	Haha, right! Well it seams like everybody and their brother goes to 18 to 20deg, so im going to shoot for 19. Factory is 12

03-02-2021, 08:05 AM	#110
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	oooohhhhh yeah! she officially holds her own face finally! you might also notice that i chopped out the rad mount and welded it back in. it used to stand proud of the support, but i made it flush to gain another 1/2" of clearance. was going to go further, but this was easier and still helped.

03-03-2021, 09:22 AM	#113
Sir Sam Working Mother Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 19,874	Looking good.

03-03-2021, 02:13 PM	#114
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	so that's not going ANYwhere. a little alignment, a little more strap rubber, a few hoses, n fill it.

03-08-2021, 06:35 AM	#115
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	she now holds the 12v! I'm super happy with the fit/function of these mounts, they aren't going anywhere. but they just lack something, they don't have the same style as other bits on the truck. they are missing with my eye, but unless i come up with something super easy, they aren't getting changed. front of the crank sits 1/2" passenger, and the trans output is 1/4" passenger to help gain clearance for the starter (and a throttle pedal)

03-08-2021, 06:36 AM	#116
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	"Make the noise!"

03-08-2021, 08:46 PM	#117
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	YYYEEEEAAAAAAAHHHHHSSSSSSSSS!! I might have done some things out of order n had to re-do em ... But she's officially hanging. The crossmember should be good for the chassis, was easy in n out, and won't let that trans go anywhere. I love the flat belly pics, b/c racecar

03-12-2021, 07:36 PM	#118
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	made some shocking progress this evening

03-12-2021, 07:37 PM	#119
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	got the carrier bearing mounted finally now that i knew the angle of the trans output. the sucky part is that i have to knock the bearing races out to fully weld it. i do have some drive shafts i can start cutting up for temporary bits for the first test drive and sorting everything out.

03-12-2021, 07:40 PM	#120
6DoF AKA: jeepnski Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 16,524	one thing i really want this to be is reasonable to drive for long distances on the highway. that's going to require a new rear gear to really get there, but I'm starting with noise and heat. while researching mufflers and killing drone on big exhaust for the 12v, the ONLY thing that everyone agreed on was that these resonator/mufflers are the best thing going. even adding another standard muffler after it for a great note that is actually more quite then factory in the cab. but it looks super screwy my next issue is getting a 5" exhaust to go anywhere reasonable. i have always planned to run it down outside the frame on the passenger side with a side exit in front of the running board. the running board might now get scrapped for a 2nd muffler, but i'll save that for later. the real issue is going to be getting the exhaust around the frame, tire, shock, and body! if building this frame again, i'd move the 45deg section back by 3" to gain enough space to turn a 90 in plane with the ground and then turn a 90 straight up inside to the turbo. as it stands though, i have 5.5" between the floor and frame. i was thinking maybe i would just run a 4" down to the rocker, but now maybe i can crush a 5" down to a 4" tall oval locally there. we'll see, this will be a project.