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Old 03-30-2018, 07:17 AM   #1
6DoF
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Default TJ long arm build

so i've been a bad sharer, here i've been helping a buddy build a long arm TJ. basically re-printing the 4-link from my TJ for the back but with the stock wheelbase. also using my old semi-float 9" but with 4.25" cut out to make it a centered pinion. got in there to find the rust in the frame was way more then expected. drivers rear upper link ripping off, and pass front lower is also ripping off. so once we are confident that things are up and running in the back, we'll be doing a 3-link on the front with the stock d30 and stock panhard bar.

cut and welded the axle tube, it's thick wall, trussed, already had link brackets on it, and used the end cup to align it with my axle jig. also decided in the short term since he was just using my ragged old 3rd, to cut and weld the axle shaft. with the angle iron clamps and a set of v-blocks, the shaft has less run-out at the flange then it did when i gave it to him. i also figure even if weaker then the shaft use to be, the larger diameter of the shaft where welded vs the neck down at the splines was ok, vs the d35 is good.

had to dent the front of the gas tank by like 1/4" to not scrape the spider9. ran a ram 2500 master cyl with Earl's braided stainless -3an line back to a Parker ball valve, then split for future cutting brake and back to the calipers.










Last edited by 6DoF; 03-30-2018 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:08 AM   #2
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my brackets and geometry, custom links from Throbros.com, Rusty's 2" coils and shocks, stock upper coil bucket, re-used stock lower bucket, and welded in a bump stop extension. gas tank clears by like 1/8" now. went for the longest first test run ever, but was awesome. smoother than stock, corners flatter than stock, and even with my cut n welded axle AND drive shaft it's buttery smooth on the highway.

did all the work at my buddies new place. he moved out from living with his now Ex after i sold my house ... and he's already up and running with a lift






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Old 03-30-2018, 08:11 AM   #3
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if anyone is interested, that's my old brake set up. yes, they are Ford d44 rotors pinned to the back of the 9" shaft with the d44 studs. GM d52 caliper and weld-on brackets. when the axle was full-width, it narrowed it just a smig, plus i had a hard time finding rotors with hats big enough to fit over the flange, but small enough to work inside the calipers. also didn't want some huge dia rotor in the back, they already grab pretty damn hard.
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:27 PM   #4
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That axle that was welded together is just temporary right?
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:32 PM   #5
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That axle that was welded together is just temporary right?
Xeleventy billion. That better be a template for a set of custom shafts.

The welded shaft. The twisted splines. So much derp.


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Old 04-01-2018, 10:05 AM   #6
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Xeleventy billion. That better be a template for a set of custom shafts.

The welded shaft. The twisted splines. So much derp.


That right there is why I never buy used parts, New cost more, but you know what your getting!
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:08 AM   #7
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What's the worst that can happen, it breaks
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
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That axle that was welded together is just temporary right?
yes, he's going to be getting a 35spline helical posi in a nodular 3rd to make the most of custom shafts. in the mean time though we needed to test the 4-link before tearing the front apart ... elimination of variables and all ... and still trying to decide on the front axle and what bolt pattern to run.

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What's the worst that can happen, it breaks
right? shaft was already "junk" from the twisted splines ... worse case, we weld it back together

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I doubt it makes enough torque for the shaft to be a problem, and it's probably still stronger than a D35.
this

plus, it's smoother on the highway then his d35 was by a noticeable margin we welded it in a set of v-blocks with a dial indicator on the flange, it's actually straighter then when i sold it to him

Last edited by 6DoF; 04-02-2018 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:22 AM   #9
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in the end, cut n welding the axle shaft is a great experiment. we want to know what happens. any time i've researched it i can only find ppl who bash the sh!t out of it with zero first hand, or guys who have been running them for 10 years with no failures on trail rigs and dirt track cars. correct best case? no ... good enough? we'll find out.
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:42 PM   #10
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Glad to see you haven't changed too much, Matt. I was worried you got money and Millerstein disappeared entirely.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:20 PM   #11
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in the end, cut n welding the axle shaft is a great experiment. we want to know what happens. any time i've researched it i can only find ppl who bash the sh!t out of it with zero first hand, or guys who have been running them for 10 years with no failures on trail rigs and dirt track cars. correct best case? no ... good enough? we'll find out.
This is what I liked about the wheeling scene. Just try stuff and see if it works. Now days if you don't have d60s eith rcvs you can't wheel your jeep on 35s
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:59 AM   #12
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This is what I liked about the wheeling scene. Just try stuff and see if it works. Now days if you don't have d60s eith rcvs you can't wheel your jeep on 35s
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Old 04-15-2018, 08:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
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This is what I liked about the wheeling scene. Just try stuff and see if it works. Now days if you don't have d60s eith rcvs you can't wheel your jeep on 35s
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Yeah, I don't know how my old CJ followed anyone through Moab, with all the high-zoot rigs around.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:45 AM   #14
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Yeah, I don't know how my old CJ followed anyone through Moab, with all the high-zoot rigs around.
Right...and no high paid spotter to point your mini in the right direction

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Old 04-16-2018, 12:21 PM   #15
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he's got the exhaust all re-done and out the back again. put a cherry bomb right after the Cat, dipped under the upper link close to the frame, then was actually able to use the stock tailpipe from there out.

jeep goes in to get the d30 geared to match this week, then next week starts the front 3-link.
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