04-17-2018, 08:54 AM | #1 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,843
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Project: PolarYJ
Same jeep, new thread.
Managed to pick up some nifty bits last night for a deal even the wife was ok with me not passing up. i've been talking about needing new tires for WAY too long, these IROKs have been sitting out in the sun for 12 years now. 40" Nitto's! 6 of 'em! so this also means new axles for sure. i have everything but the 3rd and shafts to build a matching axle to the TJ for the back. full float 9" with front 60 hubs, etc. i'll build it exactly the same width so all the shafts match, and use the same gear ratio but with a different diff. i love having spare parts, and less to keep track of. for the front i have a basic GM Dana60 that needs gears and locker. both axles will get pushed out by 1-2" as well. they will be mounted on the exact same wheels, might as well at some point see what a TJ with 2" of lift and 40s will do Last edited by 6DoF; 04-17-2018 at 08:56 AM. |
04-17-2018, 08:37 PM | #2 |
Needs moar dagger
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I really like my trail grapplers. Nice pick up!
So I've been looking around for a project I have in my head. How do you set up your rear ends, hub wise? Just welding on 60 spindles or? I've looked at unit bearings, off, 9" sf stuff. Also from the axle tube end to the was, what is that width? I know it changes for every setup, just curious what set up you have and what width it is. Having trouble finding the measurements I've been looking for. |
04-18-2018, 08:53 AM | #3 | |
Senior Member
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Quote:
He finally saw the light! Also...where are your images hosted? I wonder why I can't see them on my work computer .
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- James I like diesels |
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04-18-2018, 01:06 PM | #4 | |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,843
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Quote:
yeah yeah ... the d44 obviously served me VERY well. if i were just getting new 37s i'd have not changed it, but with a few recent breaks and trying to consolidate parts all the same YJ/TJ, it just made sense. plus more tire, more gear, etc. pics are hosted in G+ ... i put them in a collection, then on the computer i can copy image link from the thumbnails. started doing this since FB turns em off after a while. |
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04-18-2018, 01:29 PM | #5 | |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,843
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Quote:
-Spider9 housing -Rough Stuff housing ends for bolt-on front D60 spindle -GM front D60 spindle -dodge external lock-out front d60 hubs -moser 35sp custom shafts (basic full float shaft, custom length n bolt holes) -TMR GM dana 60 3/4 ton brake conversion bracket -custom 1/16" caliper bracket space -d52 GM calipers, i used the dual small piston willwoods for the back hubs/shafts: i chose the dodge hubs because they have the same 8-bolt circle for the lock-out as a standard 14b FF hub for the shaft, but it uses smaller bolts. when i ordered the shafts, i just ordered it with smaller holes to use the stock hub size bolts vs drilling and tapping them larger. custom length for the axle. this means cheaper shafts and no buying drive flanges! but you still get the convenience of the bolt-on spindle. brakes: the dodge hub has a different offset for the brake disc then the GM, so the TMR bracket won't simply bolt over the spindle as designed. however to create the proper location, you flip it around and put it behind the rough stuff axle flange with a spacer to move it inboard by that last 1/16" to center the pads. this also involves cutting off the unnecessary full wrap to all 6 spindle bolts. the flange is threaded all the way thru, so bolts from the bracket thru stick out for the spindle. the bracket then stays bolted to the flange when you pull the nuts on the spindle. width: i can get you the actual measurements if you want but i simply determined my WMS (~64"), assembled the hubs to the flange and subtracted to get where the flange went. i only put the housing about 3/4 of the way thru the flange so i could weld it internally and externally. note that you'll want different length shafts and the centered pinion. pinion isn't centered in the housing so you'll have to measure off the diff bolt holes. i have a drawing of dim's and clamp a straight edge to the diff flange to measure from. TJ pic for reference: Last edited by 6DoF; 04-18-2018 at 02:13 PM. |
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04-18-2018, 03:41 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
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I was just curious about your pics because I can’t see any of them on any of my devices
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- James I like diesels |
04-18-2018, 04:12 PM | #7 |
Needs moar dagger
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What I'm trying to figure out is, if I take a front hp60 and cut the inner c's off what kind of width that would leave me. From the rough internet measurements I could find I think I'd be pretty narrow at 56-57ish wms to wms. But the full floater spindles might help with that.
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04-18-2018, 10:32 PM | #8 | |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,843
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Quote:
Edit: I opened it in a different browser and fail ... Shoot, now what? Last edited by 6DoF; 04-18-2018 at 10:37 PM. |
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04-18-2018, 10:35 PM | #9 | |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 16,843
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Quote:
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04-19-2018, 01:17 AM | #10 |
Needs moar dagger
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04-19-2018, 10:49 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
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Can you use imgur? That won't help me see them from work, but it is a free image hosting service
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- James I like diesels |
04-19-2018, 11:32 AM | #12 |
Needs moar dagger
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I can see them fine on my phone.
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04-20-2018, 06:47 AM | #13 |
Senior Member
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Must be a google thing? I wonder if I need to be 'signed in' to google somewhere to see them.
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- James I like diesels |
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