'55 Chevy 3800 Cummins

[Hoofmann]

Nice sparkly frame! Your progress on this thing is pretty astonishing. My progress would be much slower.

[jeepkid05]

Do you have spots for water to drain out of the frame? Or do you plan on dumping a few gallons of fluid film inside the frame and tumbling it around so it coats all the nooks and crannies?

[6DoF]

Do you have spots for water to drain out of the frame? Or do you plan on dumping a few gallons of fluid film inside the frame and tumbling it around so it coats all the nooks and crannies?

inside the frame rails are sealed, or will be. the only opening is the very back where i need to finish it once the bed is built. even the front where the suspension bolts in, that section of tubing was capped at both ends before i welded it into the frame.

i do like the fluid film addition though! i might have to dump some in before the final capping.

[Cobound]

Fantastic color, totally pops, can't wait to see the full truck now :rock:

Also, neighbors...so thankful for them. You've seen all my different options of toys I have, and how I've swapped out RTT on one to another...if not for neighbors, I'd be screwed. Having moved from the country to the city I was nervous, not any more...hell, now anywhere we look I'm always considering the neighbor options :lol:

Great update, all the best to you as you unstick yourself :p

[6DoF]

Sprayed over the LizardSkin with Summit Racing single stage satin black. That should help it clean up better! Also means the cab is ready to set back on the chassis for good!

The varying texture of the lizard skin took the paint a little differently and created some more and less shiny spots. Not a big deal under the truck, just heads up to anyone doing the same.

https://i.imgur.com/IylRQp4.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/yTdFJcl.jpeg

[6DoF]

well ... crap ...

things were going quite well this weekend, for a while. i had high hopes and solid ambition to get as many smaller parts painted as possible. figured i'd start by finishing off the only remining orange bits. tent up, heater staged, lights, parts cleaned, primed, even got a really good couple layers of paint laid down. then it wouldn't cure enough for me to flip them over, to finish. i started cleaning up more parts for black, but only got them into primer in the shop before i had to just bring the orange in without flipping for the night. so i still need to paint the other side hopefully soon.

then i wake up at 12:15 to a storm, i thought it was only supposed to just rain. that ends and you can see a bigger stronger cell coming behind now and more wind predicted. so 12:30 and i'm out there taking the stupid tent down, got all wound up, couldn't get back to sleep, and here i am typing this at work half asleep ... :facepalm:

https://i.imgur.com/jTdSrhN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rpNIzWu.jpg

[6DoF]

ok, so new plan ... the tent, it's out ... built a large, foldable for easy storage, spray booth so i can just shoot paint in the garage.

3 4x8 sheets of white 1/8" wall board, hinges, some duct tape, a few box fans, furnace filters, and i should be back in business. i gota make it big enough to paint an axle in, and hopefully i can keep it together and use it for future projects.

finally got my booth all set up last night! the fans are on the back just hanging from some hooks, and i put a lazy susan bearing on my stand to spin things. before i paint i'll cover the floor with something, and hang a drop cloth on the garage door behind the fans to make sure nothing sticks to the door.

she even folds up nice to store it for later.

https://i.imgur.com/rgL6ByB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HcYvnma.jpg

[nblehm]

Nice. I may have to do something similar. I am working on some of the rust of my truck so will be painting different parts soon. Also seems my wife always has something for me to paint.

[Cobound]

Saw your IG cab post...you going to keep the original patina and go clear...I forget.

Way to adapt n overcome :rock:

[6DoF]

Patina and sauce it outside, inside and under is all hotrod

Now the only big thing between me and final assembly to drive it is paint work.

https://i.imgur.com/wqIHBtj.jpeg

[Cobound]

:rock:

[Baby peez]

I like your tire dollies, never considered making my own

[6DoF]

I like your tire dollies, never considered making my own

they perfectly fit the HF jack stands currently under the frame, or set a tire in there ... BUT ... the tubes are kinda too close together and i've had then shoot out from under a tire before. if they get stuck on something the tire can roll up over it. one day i'll make an extension to make that deeper.

[6DoF]

I like your tire dollies, never considered making my own

these are the wheels i used from summit, 2500lb capacity

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrm-m998133

[6DoF]

this weekend i really got after putting bolts in! now i just need to get more bolts :lol: it can however support it's own weight again.

got a few more things i can just bolt on to get off the shelf/floor, then i really need to start working on getting the engine in. transmission needs cleaned/painted, rear main seal, clutch, and painting the oil pan and valve covers with sound control before i stab it between the rails. once in i have more work that'll need done, but getting there.

https://i.imgur.com/XkPdy1y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0olAbex.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UbewrG2.jpg

[Cobound]

Can't wait to see the engine dropped into this beast :rock:

[6DoF]

first the good news, parts ready for install! i really like how "thuddy" the oil pan is now. 2 coats of lizard skin sound control on the valve covers and tappet cover, 4 coats on the oil pan. should totally help smooth the audible-ness of this engine.

https://i.imgur.com/umpMtVS.jpg?1

and then the bad news ... so i knew there was a small bit there and i was hoping to just dab some urethane on the pin hole outside n be good for a year or 2. but decided to pull the windshield for new rubber and to paint the inside easier, that's when i found the mouse nest filling the upper bulkhead over the windshield and had to actually investigate the extent of the rot.

i ordered patch panels, gunna fix it all, just sux cuz i thought i was done with sheet metal 'til after i drove it. roof skin is totally solid, very lucky there, it's just the eyebrow filler and upper inside structure that are compromised.

https://i.imgur.com/0cD384I.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/vwSwwW0.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/Y5qLRVt.jpg?1

[Cobound]

Yeah, that's slightly more than character :(

[6DoF]

lots been going on ... but it all got posted on the Cheby forum

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=814071&page=13

[Cobound]

Well then, looks like we have some lurking to do ;)

[Cobound]

First few posts - HOLY CHRIST :eek:

[Cobound]

FTR - this is what people that question vehicle work and prices need to see - a thread like this, a build progress with the amount of time it takes to do the little things, and not just the end project. Those plasma cut plates, the attention to detail...THAT mouse-de-nester 3000 :lol:

Having had a vehicle done, and having been a part of some relative's hot rod builds over the years, I absolutely love what you're doing, what you've done!

Man, that is insane, I'm in awe - truly awesome detail, great body work, man - kudos!!!!

Excited for you to get this done and drive it - holy hell :rock:

When it's drivable, I fully expect to see you at Back To The 50's (https://msrabacktothe50s.com/) in St Paul, MN!!!!!!!!

[xj_man_646]

That is a boat load of progress. Nicely done! Sucks about that stuff you used inside the cab peeling off.

[nblehm]

The inside stuff peeling off might make me stop working on a project :lol:

[6DoF]

The inside stuff peeling off might make me stop working on a project :lol:

BS!! i have your solution! i was ready to murder kittens over that BS though, holy hell! no clue why i thought i could "do better" on this truck than prior YJ rust work ... i already had it figured out.

i've been researching deep into this rust junk now ... turns out there are only 2 products on the market that harden in the presence of moisture and actually seal the metal away from future oxidation. POR15 and Chassis Saver. i've had amazing results from chassis save, and it's cheaper. it's basically the same thing as POR15 even thought POR15 sells a whole multi-step kit. chassis saver can be used in the same multi-stage process for WAY cheaper though, but i've not actually tried that yet.

works fine for years:
-wire brush
-blow chucks n dust off with air hose
-heavy wet coat of Chassis Saver
-rattle-bomb it whatever color you want

**can be even better if properly wire-wheeled vs brushed and properly cleaned after

Chassis Saver Multi-step process: (to match POR15 but way cheaper) {i've not tried this yet, but should be awesome}
-wire wheel
-clean with proper degreaser
-Kleen Strip Concrete and Metal Prep ($16 /gal at Home Depot)
... literally the same phosphoric acid as AutoTech Rust Prep and POR15 metal prep
... do NOT dilute per bottle instructions
... nice very wet coat (put down plastic or cardboard cuz it'll etch your cement, gravel driveway, etc)
... once drying on the edges, 2nd heavy wet coat
... let dry over night
-clean with proper degreaser
... you MUST clean it before any further coatings, it creates a white powder that nothing will stick to.
-heavy wet coat of Chassis Saver
... can 2nd coat if you want, i have lots of times.
-cure over night
-top coat with paint of choice (Chassis Saver is not UV stable and must have a top coat)

[6DoF]

lots been going on ... but it all got posted on the Cheby forum

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=814071&page=14

lots of updates happened! and more to come soon hopefully

[6DoF]

so lots more updates on the Chevy forum ... but i'll just leave this here

the Matt taping the truck gave ZERO fawks about the Matt who had to peal it all :lol: but i'm super excited with how it came out! super clean tuxedo interior is a great contrast to the rat rod. i'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

https://i.imgur.com/9vSz0fB.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/6e3bL4O.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/r5WlLNo.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/iWALjII.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/qDFkgRw.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/fiVJxx1.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/Dtgw0ig.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/Tp75tB2.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/ojKGDPw.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/iqk8SQr.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/sexVCeH.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/9Zn0xlF.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/drf88Zu.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/MhF1JAN.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/pR7RsWG.jpg?1

[xj_man_646]

Looks really good. Excited to see it come together.

[nblehm]

:rock::rock::rock:

[Cobound]

That is going to be so bad ass.

[nblehm]

The floor looks really nice painted! Nice work on all the sheet metal

[Hoofmann]

Can’t wait to see this thing run! Paint looks real good.

[6DoF]

getting closer! slowly working thru the lines/hoses, routing has been a lot of staring at it to get it just right :lol:

brakes, clutch, and power steering are all run and pretty much a known, just need to finish the execution. still need to start fuel, but hopefully have everything. air switches are ready in the truck, just need the home runs to the bags now.

i also need to nut-n-bolt the whole thing

[6DoF]

I drove it!!

:rock:

[6DoF]

vids!

https://imgur.com/YyUudp8

https://imgur.com/o8EM0Vz

[Cobound]

:rock:

I see you were cautions not to put dents in the roof from smiling too large :lol: :p

[xj_man_646]

Hell yeah!

Sounds so weird without a turbo :lol:

[6DoF]

it sounds kinda bad ass, i kinda want to drive it around NA and freak ppl out trying to figure out what it is. even thought about a pre-turbo cutout :lol:

[Dennis]

vids!

https://imgur.com/YyUudp8

https://imgur.com/o8EM0Vz

https://i.imgur.com/mTS5bXR.mp4

[nblehm]

Without scrolling all the way through again, you are putting this on air bags right? What are you using to control that system?

[6DoF]

Without scrolling all the way through again, you are putting this on air bags right? What are you using to control that system?

Yup, air. Its all manual at the moment, but the valves are really slow. 2 bags per corner in the back, ride and load, so 6 switches. The holes are for the bulkhead fittings.

These valves:
https://thorbros.com/products/1-4-manual-2-way-paddle-valve

https://i.imgur.com/O2I0m9m.jpeg

[nblehm]

:thumbsup:

I ran across the manual valves after asking on here. Kind of went down a rabbit hole while I was sick and want to run bags in the back of the j10 (to start). All the automated controls are expensive the manual valves are more my style. Too bad you can’t get them in 3/8 line

[6DoF]

if you want really high volume manual air control, this seams to be the only real option. I'm very very tempted to get a 4-way and use the current paddle switches just for the load bags.

http://www.airejax.com/touch%C3%A9/

[6DoF]

the '55 is out and back to priority. i WILL be driving this in the spring.

just organizing the shop, pulling it back out, and cleaning was a bit. going thru parts to remember what i had vs what i needed, black friday sales are going to be expensive this year.

started working on the doors to get them squared away. seals on both, but need to drill holes for the clips in the new metal. drives i think is good, but the pass needs aligned better. started cleaning up all the factory latch bits i'll be using, and started painting the handles. ran em thru the sand blaster and a random orbital to smooth out the pitting first. trying to order new hardware to ditch the double-d bits, etc.

the big issue is getting the core support re-worked. everything fit with the factory balancer, but this larger fluidamper and the belt drive fuel pump stick out more. i'll actually be flipping the core support mounts up on top of the frame vs under, under was a stupid plan. it also gives me easy bumper mounting points too. then i just need to figure out how i want to rework the rad mounts to get it to lay flatter against the core support.

https://i.imgur.com/4qlnebUl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HmfKlovl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/buWWrL3l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eWMJXial.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1vc5HTjl.jpg

this will NOT be me!

https://i.imgur.com/zuMKFYlm.jpg

[Cobound]

Stay on task, dude, stay on task!!!

I got the third stall all cleared out last night so I could pull my trailer or SXS into it...not sure which I'll keep there yet, but it felt good to have some shiit tossed and space cleared out again!!

[xj_man_646]

Explain the belt driven fuel pump. Lift pump I assume, due to your fuel cell design?

[6DoF]

Explain the belt driven fuel pump. Lift pump I assume, due to your fuel cell design?

mechanical lift pump that'll support way more fueling than the factory lift pump. plus higher PSI for better fuel control at higher RPM in the p7100.

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/12v-predator-lift-pump/

[wrath]

just organizing the shop, pulling it back out, and cleaning was a bit. going thru parts to remember what i had vs what i needed, black friday sales are going to be expensive this year.
https://i.imgur.com/zuMKFYlm.jpg


I've been trying to do the same. Been trying to do triage and let some things go forever when I had to go back to work. That commute and lunch time lost is bigly. We normally only have 1 kitchen bag of trash each week... been filling two 55 gallon trash cans every week for a year. Some of the stuff has been hard to let go (like first gen S10 stuff and 73-91 stuff).

I still have a garage full of windows for the house I bought two years ago. I only put the 3 worst ones in.

There is something gratifying about sorting the work area and starting fresh.

Where do you look to find useful sales?

[6DoF]

once in a while i have to stop buying parts of things and just make myself complete the crap i already bought. i have a PILE of stuff for Hank, but that's waiting til the '55 is on the street now.

i missed a sale last month on all the glass and door components i need, that junk gets expensive. i've never looked, but i guess classic industries and similar have good (or best) sales for black friday.

i also need to hit up some diesel supplier for a pair of turbo's and some injectors at least. i need to call around again and get opinions on best setup for what i wanna do first, compare everyone's choices.

[6DoF]

satisfying

https://i.imgur.com/81GKwYc.mp4

[Cobound]

Right...what seems like the little things can be so big :rock:

[6DoF]

got my bolts in and ordered a TON of parts!

Turbo's: S362/65/.7 under an S475/96/1.32 ... plus some hot side pipe fab bits
Fueling: new injectors, new valve springs, new pump governor spring

door guts: vent window assemblies, glass, seals n slides

plus electric wiper motor

did a bit of work aligning the doors, and drivers door i'm super happy with. the passenger door doesn't seam like it's going to fit. it's very tight against the cab, but adjusted all the way out ... then on the front edge at the top it's almost against the A pillar and the back has a lot of gap still ... but if i til the door back, the body lines end up way low. i have moved the door up some since the pictures, but didn't help much.

https://i.imgur.com/qQGQeqyl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZDzZXSHl.jpg

[wrath]

My Dad used to work kwality/repair line at GM and how they fix door alignment using a block of wood wrapped in a chamois to fix door problems like that. Just close the door on the block of wood and it bends the hinges just enough to fix the problem.

I have done the same on a lot of G-body, W-body, Y-body, and F-body to fix droopy doors, which is usually caused by fat people or children dangling off them.

[6DoF]

parts started coming in, first turbo is on site. credit card still trying to recover from Black Friday ... ugh

then it was on to re-doing the core support mounts and radiator mounts. wish i had done this from the start, but whatever it's there now. i even drilled and tapped the frame for am extra bolt in the face to help bumper mounts later, something about going into the new paint was panful :lol: the old body mount hole and the new face bolt should make the bumper mount easy enough.

after getting the new mount tacked in place while everything was held by the old mounts, was time to burn. when i cut the bottom off with the old mounts, i had to move the mounting for the cross bars and the lower tube up too. just cut and welded, doesn't look perfectly symmetrical but it aint going nowhere. had to bend the rad mounts quite a bit to get it to angle forward at the bottom vs straight up and down, now clears the fuel lift pump mini-belt just fine.

what it didn't clear however was the dang water neck getting past the belt tensioner :dohh: right freakin into it! is an aftermarket belt routing kit already, so i just modified the brackets a bit and good to go. ordered what i hope to be all the parts for rad hoses, cross your fingers that should be doooone then.

something else i ordered was new valve springs to hand the higher R's and PSI, made sure the rear valve cover came off and it cleared by less than 1/2", all win with that!

https://i.imgur.com/n1xBMfYl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NC5md6Zl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zfdYWNbl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wlMNBtWl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AUZ0xWLl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JoeOoXpl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q2dJllHl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QylxJ2gl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7Fqtbpcl.jpg

[6DoF]

been bouncing around working on everything and anything to get myself a fat check mark on the list. as much as i hate christmas tree style clips, these zipties with one molded on are pretty solid. cut the tree n not reuse like a normal ziptie vs trying to save it.

working on black friday sale parts, i got the upgraded "60lb" valve springs all installed. #6 was a wanker to get to, but we got it! valves are lashed, but i feel like i want to re-check them after running it for a while. also got the 4k governor spring in the pump to let this thing eat.

i had forgotten to seam seal the new eyebrow plate i welded in before paint. not really a big deal and i'll leave it like it is, at least she's sealed now. actually did the whole tape both sides, smear it, and peal for nice lines. i'm pretty happy with it. this is not the same 3M Urethan i had used on the cab before, it's SIKA 221. seams like awesome stuff.

got the other turbo and started planning for how to cram it all in there. the normal flipped manifold was just all kinds of wrong. worst part was i only had 3" from the v-band on the back of the turbine to the firewall. then factory 2nd gen turbo location was basically in the middle of everything so i ended up making an angle adapter. normal manifold orientation, but will tuck the "small" turbo down under it closer to the engine. should have better room for piping, and more room for the atmospheric turbo. crossing my fingers the design was good, had send-cut-send laser cut all the parts and hopefully i see em soon.

the chineese short throw shifter i bought was hot garbage. didn't realize it until i bought a second one for my other truck. swapped that one out for a CORE shifter and loved it, so just swapped this one too. they are hands down the best shifter i have ever used. i even got one for the jeep i like em so much. just tight n right. the hurst style stick for the ram however didn't quite work in the 55 :lol: i'll have to cut n weld that later.

https://i.imgur.com/7tRMVczl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qAc7PFBl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yZvGdb3l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l4XuCPml.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4YcBgFxl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qLY6PFwl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sPm1MUAl.jpg

[nblehm]

Dude this thing is SO cool.

Was reading the first pages and frame and suspension stuff again. My project adhd really wants to build a jeep cab ramp truck. Went back and looked at your build.

[6DoF]

Dude this thing is SO cool.

Was reading the first pages and frame and suspension stuff again. My project adhd really wants to build a jeep cab ramp truck. Went back and looked at your build.

thanks man! i'll gladly send you the chassis 3D/2D!

the only thing i think i'd change is where the step starts in the front ... if i could make it closer to the cab i'd be able to rout exhust between the tire and chassis vs frame n cab.

i'm also having issues with the summit racing paint chipping off. not sure if it's my application or a paint issue, cuz it's the same for all 3 colors.

[nblehm]

There is a f450 rolling chassis for sale near me for under 2k. Might be a cool plate form to start with. 12v or a bbc and a jeep body, ready to roll :lol:

[6DoF]

There is a f450 rolling chassis for sale near me for under 2k. Might be a cool plate form to start with. 12v or a bbc and a jeep body, ready to roll :lol:

12v or BBC ftw ... i'm really getting the itch that i need a bbc in my life :james:

if you can use the chassis, suspension, and entire driveline i could see a body swap being worth it. but if doing new bod mounts, engine and trans mounts, then some suspension ... it's worth just building the custom chassis too.

[6DoF]

Started getting things torn down and reassembled in the rear axle for new gears. going from the axles factory 4.10s to as high as i possibly can at 3.21. the Cummins loves load, and this way i'll be able to do highway speeds with the 30" tires :lol:

front shocks are on, and got the little bracket i made the other night on after the paint dried. something satisfying about a little stupid tab that the brake lines can ziptie too. just a nice KISS thing.

also cut down the shifter. makes ya cringe grinding into new chrome, but it's 1000x better. custom cut shifters that fall exatly where your hand is just makes the whole feel. and the fact it stood straight up is kinda cool.

https://i.imgur.com/1bv1n2zl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QdVEAyBl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yhvQLLYl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XjnzVyMl.jpg

[6DoF]

got after the crazy door assembly again last night ... why were the stupid horizontal lower felts even more ridiculous to install than the vent window!?!?! 4 clips, just pop em in, the dude on the youtube said it was easy ... i blame the aftermarket for copying GM vs doing something better when GM made a crap design.

but it's together, it's functional and smooth, and i like it. though, i don't like how much paint i chipped. i'm not sure if it's my application, or the paint itself, but i'm getting flakes vs scratches in all 3 colors.

https://i.imgur.com/e5QSit5l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FJljd4wl.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Flaking paint would point to a prep or some other type of adhesion issue IMO. Compatibility issues in my limited experience would bubble, so I don't think that is your problem.

[6DoF]

wife helped me last night, there was definitely a learning curve to the windshield install. still only took us about 30min, and afterwards she said we'd be way faster the next time. even offered to help other ppl if she got paid :lol:

only thing i broke was when i knee'd the flasher button on the new column ... little jerk broke off inside :dohh:

https://i.imgur.com/LtU3Vdv.jpg

[6DoF]

Flaking paint would point to a prep or some other type of adhesion issue IMO. Compatibility issues in my limited experience would bubble, so I don't think that is your problem.

yup ... i know a few places i cleaned the primer wrong, but i could have also ended up with a dry spray or something application related. one thing i saw was maybe i laid it down too thick as well.

or all of the above! sux, but i'll touch things up and should be good.

[6DoF]

still haven't gotten back to the rear gears, but i got the turbo angle adapter all burnt in! i enjoyed the crap out of building that. welded and welded again to get the exterior corner radius on the plate, then internally ported back to smooth again.

50deg, T4 to T3, as compact as possible.

https://i.imgur.com/YI2rWl7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Fk94Hze.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/31nfU8G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ApZPWnW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bZi8IuW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MNbSrm7.jpg

[xj_man_646]

That adapter looks pretty good. This will be compound turbo in the end, or single? I can't recall.

[6DoF]

That adapter looks pretty good. This will be compound turbo in the end, or single? I can't recall.

compounds incoming!

S362/65 ... s475/96

https://i.imgur.com/l4XuCPm.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Schweeeeet.

[6DoF]

the problem is that i'm setting up my fueling and the turbo's to be WAY more capable than the current head gasket :lol:

i re-torqued the head bolts to the higher spec, so that'll help a little ... but i really need studs. to get the last few head bolts out i have to actually pull the head or engine, i can't just replace them one by one in the new doghouse. if I'm pulling the head, i really need to fire ring it to truly hold what i'll throw at it. might as well buy the ported head pre-machined for those vs wasting money machining the stock head when i can just sell it as-is. plus you have to have the rocker pedestals machined for the studs or buy upgraded ones.

for now i'm just doing the bare minimum to not have to re-fab anything later and to support an entertaining truck. it'll be "tame" for now at only 45psi max, but that could still be 450+hp if i get the screws turned right.

the stupid thing is that Hank will push 60PSI, but his fueling is junk.

[6DoF]

if someone ever asks you to help them install the windshield on a truck with the gasket vs glue-in ... do it, it's a cool process and pretty satisfying. plus it's a 2 man job, help a dude.

if someone asks you to help them with the rear window on a truck with the gasket style and the locking strip ... you punch them in the face and walk away. what an epic process of hateful things! the seal is missing a chuck where the lock strip goes, so it's extra floppy and unstable to get the glass into the basic opening. then the lock seal needs tucked into the groove under both edges, but the gasket is all over the place without it. the corners are especially hateful where it's all collapsing. took me 2 nights cuz the first night i had to take a break to throw stuff around the shop and start over last night :lol:

but it's in! it's clean, it works, it's good to go!

https://i.imgur.com/asZ3al9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n1BB16V.jpg

[Dennis]

Looks great!

[Cobound]

:lol:

Yeah, those suck...I've actually helped, and don't recommend it :p

Does look titties tho - dope ride, dude, super excited for you :rock:

[6DoF]

got after getting the 2nd turbo mounted. everything looks like it'll work out really good for the entire cold side, and the manifold adapter and exhaust exiting under the cab should be good ... this hot pipe between the turbo's is just TIGHT. it's going to requires a lot of small radius work.

3D printed some more jigs to help, the one pictured is just to slide into position and draw a straight line around the tube. i made another to mark out a 10deg pie cut from the bend.

https://i.imgur.com/XNUrHIA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0gNostI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WmgowhF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WyK7nWE.jpg

[xj_man_646]

I don't know why, but it always seems funny to me that there's all that turbo weight just hanging off the side of the manifold like that, assuming there's no additional support anywhere.

I swear I've asked but what is under the crank damper with the little pulleys and belt?

[6DoF]

I don't know why, but it always seems funny to me that there's all that turbo weight just hanging off the side of the manifold like that, assuming there's no additional support anywhere.

I swear I've asked but what is under the crank damper with the little pulleys and belt?

right! i felt similar and lots of ppl build big support brackets down to the block for the primary. since mine is over top i don't have good access and started to research it. there's not a single compound kit on the market with a structural support bracket down to the block that i can find. any brackets used on the primary at best resolve the rotation so the hot pipe doesn't spin in the v-band on the back of the small turbo. my bracket will eliminate any possible spin, and provide some structure to keep the welded hot pipe from cracking since it's not carrying all the load.

this manifold has more than enough structure, and so do the 12x M10 bolts holding it to the head. my bits will all hold up ... so it's down to the 4x M10 studs as the only "weak" point. really shouldn't be any problem.

the mini-belt driven thinger under the balancer is my lift pump, Power Dirven Diesel predator mechanical pump. It's built for higher psi and flow than the factory mechanical could ever get too, and similar price to the electric ones.

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/12v-predator-lift-pump/

[6DoF]

the pie-cut and straight cut stencils were awesome, highly recommend. the pie cut made quick work of adding some angle and tightening up the bend. it was a 10deg print, but i cut on the sharpie lines so probably more like 12-14 actual. the straight cut needed some tube for alignment, can't just cut off a sliver with it hanging off the end. before i started cutting back the start of the pipe i made multiple marks. ended up trimming it 3x, made it easy easy when already marked.

https://i.imgur.com/ADZ4aym.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nss2Cl3.jpg

[6DoF]

i hate how my exhaust welds look, they are always nasty ... not going anywhere, but ugly. good thing it's getting painted and fully wrapped for that SEMA look :lol:

i am super excited this is together, and it's crazy sturdy when assembled. wish i had more room to make this pipe more racecar, but she should be fine. it's tight, but it's big at 3.5". should also have good room that i can get the 4" down pipe past the tire easy without rubbing it at full lock too. cross your fingers for me the outlet flange shows up soon.

https://i.imgur.com/rBu71dA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JjdPJnZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Co8TQcQ.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Looking pretty good!

Have you considered a hood stack? :lol:

I kid, I kid.

[6DoF]

Looking pretty good!

Have you considered a hood stack? :lol:

I kid, I kid.

maybe ... :james:

[Cobound]

Admiration and respect.

[Hoofmann]

Oh man, I have not checked on this thread in a while. Looking good dude! :rock:

[Cobound]

Thought of you, dude…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1XFADFL7vz/?igsh=dGp0bWNibjUwb29q

That’s some serious practice :eek:

[6DoF]

i would LOVE to have a TIG finally ... one day, after the shop is built.

visible welds i try to take more care in, but exhaust will all get wrapped ... i don't bother to change to a smaller wire and just let it eat. i also just fill some gaps vs taking the extra 20min to REALLY fine tune some exhaust pipe fits :lol:

[6DoF]

was at the in-laws over the weekend, but still got some stuff done.

- Manifold turbo is officially installed (measured for oil lines)
- installed dash to windshield trim
- got sensor bungs on the hot pipe
- the wife cleaned the inside really good
- started fab of the intercooler mount
- installed seatbelts

i really like how the seatbelts came out. should be way better than just a lap belt or retrofitting a 3-point. also pretty comfy with no cutting into my neck or pulling bad.

https://i.imgur.com/P6GwNFU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tF9jDIY.jpg

[Cobound]

In a vehicle that age, you legally probably only need a lap belt, no? So you could wear them either way you'd like?

[6DoF]

In a vehicle that age, you legally probably only need a lap belt, no? So you could wear them either way you'd like?

legally i need absolutely nothing for a belt, i could go completely without. but i don't trust other ppl ...

[Cobound]

Werd

[xj_man_646]

Missed opportunity to use GMT800 front seats with the integrated seat belts.

I can't but help think I'd get annoyed with harnesses. YMMV though, and am enjoying following the build, so keep it up!

[6DoF]

Missed opportunity to use GMT800 front seats with the integrated seat belts.

I can't but help think I'd get annoyed with harnesses. YMMV though, and am enjoying following the build, so keep it up!

looked into those, but they are so bulky up in the corner where this cab curves in, they push the seat even further forward.

i have been using harnesses in the TJ for a long time and really like em. lap belt for just around town, shoulders for longer or highway trips. i really do prefer them.

[xj_man_646]

Do you cinch them up to proper tightness when using the full harness? That's the part that sucks to me...otherwise what good are they doing :dunno:

[6DoF]

Do you cinch them up to proper tightness when using the full harness? That's the part that sucks to me...otherwise what good are they doing :dunno:

"proper tightness" or not doing any good?? really? you could have visible slack, i contend that holding both shoulders will still keep you more secure than any 3pt could ever hope to.

if you are racing and could hit the wall at 200mph flipping 10x thru the air, yeah, wrench that sh!t down crazy-tight. if you are driving thru town on your way to Walmart, what tightness would you put a basic lap belt at? shoulder belts are similar without slack, but still allow you to breath normally.

[xj_man_646]

IDK how it does it, but the automatic seat belt locks engage really quickly in my F250 based on changes in acceleration in the vehicle (which was super annoying when I had a constant vibration caused by sh1tty tires). To the point where I had a hard time reaching anything :lol:. I'll agree that in most cases they're slack, so your point is valid, though there is always some form of tension on the 3-point belts to keep them taught and against your body so you can't slip out of them easily or by accident.

[6DoF]

hot pipe in paint, fully wrapped, and installed with the s475. i really like the one boot cold side connection. turbo oil lines are ordered, so i really need to get on mounting that charge cooler!

also, "hood stack" pic for James

https://i.imgur.com/QQLCVYD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/07FvHPT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cQr7A4C.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Looking good. Keep the hood stack :pimp: :lol:

[nblehm]

I got rid of the the harnesses in my J10 and went back to 3 points. I can tell you I wear my seat belt more now then I did with the harnesses. As Cobound would say, to each their own.


I have read the argument for not running harnesses in something without a cage is you dont want to be pinned up right if the roof gets crushed down. :dunno:

[6DoF]

wrapped up the intake this weekend, that's officially sealed and tight. other than once the front clip is on i'll just need to figure out an air filter. so i figured what angle the intake stack needed to be, then in 3D i cut a model of 3.5" pipe and measured the arch length around the miter. i then made an ellipse of the same arch length that fit inside the intake mounting holes and had some plate cut. chopped some pipe, squished it, and I'm super happy with the transition.

i did add some weld bead around the top edge of the pipe to keep the coupler n clamp from slipping off.

i don't particularly like the look of the cooler on top of the engine. it's a nice compact packaging though, it's free space under the hood that isn't used for anything else, and the air path is really good. hard to argue with all that.

https://i.imgur.com/nuVHuel.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BN6uiAC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z11Q4eW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mS68tUD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U57vhbB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pVXRHxe.jpg

[6DoF]

then moved on to the down pipe where thing got close, but they fit! 4" down pipe snaked :rock:

even pre-added some sensor bungs if i ever want them.

https://i.imgur.com/ige3i9p.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/idusLoN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oCUNf43.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7WxQP68.jpg

[nblehm]

Exhaust looks good. Are you just painting with hi temp paint? I’m curious about having the stock manifold on my flat fender ceramic coated.

Is that air cooler air to water?

[6DoF]

Exhaust looks good. Are you just painting with hi temp paint? Im curious about having the stock manifold on my flat fender ceramic coated.

Is that air cooler air to water?

it's just high-temp paint to seal the welds. i've had them rust bad enough quick enough before, and this stuff seams to really help the whole system last way longer. the TJ's entire system is still mostly black after over 10 years.
wrapping it also doesn't seam to hurt, this will get wrapped the whole way back to keep heat out of the cab.

Air to water, yup. it'll get water plumbed to one of the 2 radiators in the back. lots of skeptical ppl on the air-to-water deal

[MBood82]

Air to water, yup. it'll get water plumbed to one of the 2 radiators in the back. lots of skeptical ppl on the air-to-water deal

What's to be skeptical about? As long as it's sized sufficiently for the air volume and temperatures the concept itself is well proven, lots of cars run air to water these days.

I do see potential heat soak concerns with the mounting location, but even that can be offset if it becomes an issue. I'm assuming a traditional front mount intercooler was space constrained?

The truck is coming along nicely, I'm excited to see it starting to come together. Hopefully it's time for some body panels soon!

[6DoF]

What's to be skeptical about? As long as it's sized sufficiently for the air volume and temperatures the concept itself is well proven, lots of cars run air to water these days.

I do see potential heat soak concerns with the mounting location, but even that can be offset if it becomes an issue. I'm assuming a traditional front mount intercooler was space constrained?

The truck is coming along nicely, I'm excited to see it starting to come together. Hopefully it's time for some body panels soon!

there's soooo many ppl skeptical about the water to air! from ppl running engine coolant thru the cooler to poor water cooling that lets it heat soak, etc. i guess we'll see hopefully soon enough. i specifically sized the radiator to be slightly bigger than the core of the charge cooler, in theory the system should be able to ditch more heat than it can take in. plus at some point it'll also have an aluminum reservoir in the bed that would shed even more heat.

[xj_man_646]

Is it being plumbed into the engine cooling circuit? If so, I'd do a dedicated circuit for the air to water. You'd definitely want it cooling the charge below where the engine would be running.

Big air to air is more suitable for keeping temps in check in situations such as hauling up a long grade. YMMV though.

[6DoF]

Is it being plumbed into the engine cooling circuit? If so, I'd do a dedicated circuit for the air to water. You'd definitely want it cooling the charge below where the engine would be running.

Big air to air is more suitable for keeping temps in check in situations such as hauling up a long grade. YMMV though.

https://media1.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExbG4xYXp6cTNhcGZ5YTc5N2N1aThwcXd lY3F5ZGgwc2pqejFiNThiZSZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfY nlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/8vUEXZA2me7vnuUvrs/giphy.gif

it's not part of the engine cooling! ... no one should be using engine coolant for a water-to-air in any application except maybe sub-arctic. this comes up all the time on every forum and i have no clue where anyone get the idea from.

from now on i'm calling them water chillers instead of radiators ... maybe that'll help.

as for air-to-air vs water-to-air for heavy extended loading, either can suffer or either can be engineered to provide more than enough cooling capacity. the decision mostly comes down to space, complexity, and costs to pick one or the other. most ppl use some tiny water chiller due to space/location issues, or only an ice box reservoir for drag racing. an ice box will heat soak real quick.

i'm very space limited in the nose of the 55 from the long engine, and lowered chassis, plus getting the '78 steering in there. the 55 radiator is notably smaller than that of a 2nd gen ram to start with. by removing the air-to-air from in front of it, it's getting much cooler air to start with, should be no issue. water-to-air is more complex and more cost, but allows me to use space i have above the engine and under the bed. the key is ... did i size and place the components correctly to never heat soak. my water chiller should have more surface area than the charge cooler.

[MBood82]

My air to water experience is fairly limited to the DSM platform, I have had numerous friends run it successfully. Their biggest issues typically related to keeping the coolant side sealed as the length and complexity of the lines were prone to leakage. They simply work when done right.

Your charge cooler looks to be at twice the size of what my DSM friends ran, so that tracks given the nearly 3x displacement increase and higher boost pressures being seen.

Most aftermarket charge coolers I've seen mounted to the side however, not directly above the engine. I assume that diesel will throw off a good amount of heat, especially with the turbos inches away, but you do appear to be liberally applying insulation that should help offset.

Given factory supercharged applications like the Hellcat and ZR1 included air to water intercoolers (charge coolers) are integral into the supercharger, even closer to the heat of the engine block, I'm sure you wouldn't be the first engineer combatting ambient temperature impacts on the charge cooler design.

I'm very interested to see how it works out, how close you get to target temps. Will you have probe(s) to monitor while driving?

[xj_man_646]

from now on i'm calling them water chillers instead of radiators ... maybe that'll help.



Just refer to it / them as the heat exchanger(s) for the charge air cooler. Add that they're isolated from the engine cooling circuit if you must.



Given factory supercharged applications like the Hellcat and ZR1 included air to water intercoolers (charge coolers) are integral into the supercharger, even closer to the heat of the engine block, I'm sure you wouldn't be the first engineer combatting ambient temperature impacts on the charge cooler design.

They're also integrated into the intake manifold, so the cooled charge basically goes right to the engine. Matt's distance from turbo to CAC to intake is very short. From that side of things, it should work nicely. Not a lot of people going the water to air method in the diesel world that I've seen (that said, I don't follow it much anymore either).

[6DoF]

My air to water experience is fairly limited to the DSM platform, I have had numerous friends run it successfully. Their biggest issues typically related to keeping the coolant side sealed as the length and complexity of the lines were prone to leakage. They simply work when done right.

Your charge cooler looks to be at twice the size of what my DSM friends ran, so that tracks given the nearly 3x displacement increase and higher boost pressures being seen.

Most aftermarket charge coolers I've seen mounted to the side however, not directly above the engine. I assume that diesel will throw off a good amount of heat, especially with the turbos inches away, but you do appear to be liberally applying insulation that should help offset.

Given factory supercharged applications like the Hellcat and ZR1 included air to water intercoolers (charge coolers) are integral into the supercharger, even closer to the heat of the engine block, I'm sure you wouldn't be the first engineer combatting ambient temperature impacts on the charge cooler design.

I'm very interested to see how it works out, how close you get to target temps. Will you have probe(s) to monitor while driving?

i keep thinking about scoops of some kinds in the hood. small details that make you looks twice, not something big n gaudy. was really thinking just one for the air filter to wash it with fresh air, but another to wash the cooler with fresh air wouldn't hurt.

i have a fit blanket for the s475, and still need to order one for the s362. i have some cut-to-shape blankets for the turbo adapter off the manifold and may also put more between the firewall and pipes. i hadn't thought about putting any under the cooler, but might make sense.

i also have 2 water chillers in the back, each is bigger than the core of this main charge cooler. the idea was to also have another water-to-air between the turbo's to help reduce temps even more ... but that's excessive for the boost levels i'll be running at the moment. can play that game later.

also at the moment i won't really have too many sensors, just enough to know if things are really going to hell or not. eventually after the barn is up and i have some cash again, i want to fully instrument and be able to data-log this thing to make is fawkin sing.

[xj_man_646]

A charge air cooler of any type, between the turbos in a compound setup, is something I've never seen anywhere. I think that would be a large expense of time and effort for marginal gains, if any.

[6DoF]

Not a lot of people going the water to air method in the diesel world that I've seen

i think most of that is they are in bigger trucks with room to run a nice giant air-to-air easy n cheap like

[6DoF]

A charge air cooler of any type, between the turbos in a compound setup, is something I've never seen anywhere. I think that would be a large expense of time and effort for marginal gains, if any.

the cooler charge will help the 2nd turbo efficiency, you are compressing cooler denser air. you also end up with less heat load for the main cooler to deal with.

Old Smokey F1 is the easy example to find. he had a water-to-air mid stage cooler, and the air-to-air final. he also had a MASSIVE rear mounted rad for the engine cooling, reverse of me. shame that truck got so wadded up again.

https://speedhunters-wp-production.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/31072253/oldsmokeyf1-james-chantry-speedhunters-10-1200x811.jpg

[6DoF]

door parts finally came!! it's officially "dry'd in"

https://i.imgur.com/TeG22Al.jpg

[Cobound]

Officially like everything now but the doors.








:cotter:


JK, JK :lol:

[xj_man_646]

the cooler charge will help the 2nd turbo efficiency, you are compressing cooler denser air. you also end up with less heat load for the main cooler to deal with.

Old Smokey F1 is the easy example to find. he had a water-to-air mid stage cooler, and the air-to-air final. he also had a MASSIVE rear mounted rad for the engine cooling, reverse of me. shame that truck got so wadded up again.

https://speedhunters-wp-production.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/31072253/oldsmokeyf1-james-chantry-speedhunters-10-1200x811.jpg

That picture looks like the charge goes from the water to air, to an air to air. Not into another turbo before the air to air. :dunno:

edit: I went to find another pic of it. You're right.

https://www.garrettmotion.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Old_Smokey_Ford_F1_Garrett_Racing_Performance_Chuc kles_Garage_Scott_Birdsall-8.jpg

Was this thing built for Pikes Peak? Makes sense if so; at altitude, the compressors need to work harder to build the equivalent boost as sea level, which causes excess heat in the charge, lowering your manifold air density and reducing power.

[6DoF]

That picture looks like the charge goes from the water to air, to an air to air. Not into another turbo before the air to air. :dunno:

edit: I went to find another pic of it. You're right.

https://www.garrettmotion.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Old_Smokey_Ford_F1_Garrett_Racing_Performance_Chuc kles_Garage_Scott_Birdsall-8.jpg

Was this thing built for Pikes Peak? Makes sense if so; at altitude, the compressors need to work harder to build the equivalent boost as sea level, which causes excess heat in the charge, lowering your manifold air density and reducing power.

i don't think it started out as a pikes peak rig ... but he definitely finished it off on pikes peak with that crash.

[6DoF]

IT RUNS AGAIN!!

exhaust is fully wrapped and re-installed, and my turbo drain -10an hose showed up a day early!

fired that thing off last night and everything seams good. both turbo's spin and were getting oil at least :lol: exhaust sounds pretty decent, only one new leak at a fuel line that might have just been a loose fitting.

idle is really high with the new huge injectors though, and just turning down the idle screw wasn't enough to get a stable low idle. now it's time i figured out the P7100 tuning and started turning screws.

https://i.imgur.com/9tYlIS9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2bqdSFV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Y4rGUJm.jpg

[Dennis]

Awesome!!!
This build has been cool to follow.
Can't wait to see it rolling and towing!

[xj_man_646]

I haven't heard of injectors having an effect on idle speed before. That is interesting. How much larger did you go over stock? What did you do for a fuel plate? I can't recall if that came up in the past.

[6DoF]

it's entirely possible that i need to re-adjust the new gov springs too actually.

injectors are the new Power Driven Diesel Power Jet's ... they don't list a size or hole qty cuz they are cut different than any other 2ng gen nozzle. keeps ppl from comparing apples n oranges i guess. i got "stage-3: up to 750hp"

fuel plate still un-touched by me, but also unconfirmed if the prior owner did anything with it. i'm going to order the max travel AFC kit to have better control of this boost level and bench set it for what i'm shooting for.

[MBood82]

So when is the burnout vid???

[6DoF]

So when is the burnout vid???

March :lol:

[Dennis]

Four years into this thread.....
.....can't wait!

[xj_man_646]

Its hard to believe, for me, that it has been that long. Time since COVID seems to have sped up 1.5x or so, at least it seems that way. The pandemic somehow ruined my sense of time :lol:

[6DoF]

2017 was when i started this version of the thread ... i had gotten the truck year or 2 before that.

[xj_man_646]

2.5 years between posts 1 and 2. :lol:

[6DoF]

did a lot more staring at things over the weekend and trying stuff, then trying again til i finally got what i liked. new shut-down cable is in! it's actually a locking cable, but could just be a basic choke cable it if i wanted now. no springs, just pull on, push off, lock if ya want. probably lock-on to make sure it maintains full fuel ability.

re-did the throttle cable to delete the 2nd gen TPS and extra unnecessary linkages. just need a new throttle return spring and mount to really make that prime.

got the radiator installed and fully piped! i'm not a huge fan of the upper hose, but not the end of the world either. if there's ever an issue i already found steam ports made to cut into silicone hoses.

took the pump AFC apart to hopefully start to dial in the fueling a bit and smoke out the shop way less :lol: ... fawk, i should charge the batteries after all the starting ... key now is going to be getting things ready at the bare min to drive it. gauges, wiring, fix air leaks in bag lines, etc. then i can start work on the bed and other cosmetics knowing worst case she's viable.

https://i.imgur.com/6f8pkGS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dxDGdvN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b9EHTm3.jpg

[Dennis]

The pandemic somehow ruined my sense of time :lol:
I think that is a universal world wide thing.

[6DoF]

started to get the 3D put together for a bed structure with hatch. thinking 1x1 framework with 3/4" ply over it, and lift-off style hinges

https://i.imgur.com/mkemV9n.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hp9ITfr.jpg

[Dennis]

You should find some vintage Craftsman or SnapOn chests to mount there.

[xj_man_646]

Kinda wish I still had some CAD skills for stuff like that. Not that I'm building anything anytime soon, but that is neat.

Did you find a model of the 14b or do that one yourself?

[6DoF]

You should find some vintage Craftsman or SnapOn chests to mount there.

i actually have an old patina job box for the bed! "dry" lockable storage since the cab has none.

[6DoF]

Kinda wish I still had some CAD skills for stuff like that. Not that I'm building anything anytime soon, but that is neat.

Did you find a model of the 14b or do that one yourself?

CREO is free online from PTC for student edition. no need for a .edu email either, just tell em you're learning or teaching.

i found the 6bt and 14B files, yeah.

[xj_man_646]

Yeah, I wouldn't even know where to begin to learn a new CAD program. The last exposure I had was CAD class where I learned CATIA back in 2012 :lol:.

[6DoF]

Yeah, I wouldn't even know where to begin to learn a new CAD program. The last exposure I had was CAD class where I learned CATIA back in 2012 :lol:.

you know the basics more than enough to be dangerous ... you just need a refresher to where the specific buttons are, order of operations, etc. that's what YouTube is great for. you can find an operation you need.

i say pic something random to model that doesn't matter, and just get after it.

[6DoF]

ya ever spend an entire weekend doing something over ... get to the end of the weekend and realize you are only just back to where you thought you started?

i knew i installed the rear main seal on this 12v wrong after doing Hank's 3x cuz i did it first. i know i oiled it like every seal and they MUST be installed dry to not leak. well i was having bad leakage so apart it came. got the trans out, clutch off ... and rear main was dry. wtf. looked harder and it was dripping from the oil pan rail in like 3 place, but wet almost half the seam.

s475 and hot pipe, plus the intercooler mounts have to come out for the engine to tip back far enough to get the trans out ... then everything else to pull the damn 12v :james:

turns out, the pan rail was deformed at the bolt holes and about 20% of the RTV i used never touched the block side. hammered the pan rail back into shape and used a greased paper gasket this time. also did a new rear main while it was out hanging there. so far, so good.

https://i.imgur.com/T5CMMGZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mtBzCuL.jpg

[xj_man_646]

You're telling me you might have a 12V that isn't leaking oil from somewhere? :lol:

I'm sure it was a bit of a pain, but you'll be glad you did it.

[6DoF]

:lol:

ran it about as long as i dared without having it full of coolant. 2 different runs and a few starts that started to get things warm. as of this morning, nothing on the floor!

[6DoF]

got the engine up to operating temp and ran it for a bit yesterday, coolant is full! pretty sure that bled out nicely. only started leaking that from one connection as it cooled, tightened the clamp and looks to be good.

the drivers side of the oil pan where it was leaking is officially sealed! but now the entire passenger side appears to leak ... and the front main seal ... i tightened up the pan bolts, they were looser on the pass side, so we'll see what happens on the next run.

:james:

[xj_man_646]

That sucks about the leaks!

[nblehm]

Been a while since i have done oil pan reseal on a Cummins, I feel like they usually come with a fairly thick rubber gasket? Your pan got over torqued at some point, hard to get them to seal again when the bolt holes are pushed up like that.

[6DoF]

i've not been able to find a formed silicone gasket for the 12v unfortunately ... if i ever do another paper pan gasket like this, it'll be heavy glue to the pan and greased to the block.

if i have to mess with this one again, i'll slightly loosen the pan bolts on that side, brake clean down the pan/block rails and gasket edge, pack RTV in there like a wheel bearing, then re-torque after cure.

this morning there was still zero on the floor again. it either will only drip while running, or i got it sealed with the re-torque

[6DoF]

was toying with an idea while looking things over. pretty much "all the guys" were hating on it, but lets hear what you guys all think.

there's already an interesting dichotomy in this truck of new vs old, so why not with mechanical and electronic as well? i intend to push this engine, so for my own engineering entertainment and to really get it right, i really want/need full datalogging with a huge array of sensors. even just the basics are already too many gauge pods for this truck. the best way i think I've found is the Holley Pro dash. no way it'll fit behind the factory v-bezel, even if i wanted to be missing some screen. so what if i put the big screen for all the gauges and controls mid-dash? then i could do a phone mount in the factory cluster bezel for tunes/navigation.

thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/GbVbhjtl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DIA1lg4l.jpg

[6DoF]

slowly picking away at things. i ended up sandblasting the headlight buckets to repaint, they are super solid, so that's nice. started a fuel crossover hose, getting a relay and fuse panel together, shifter boot doesn't fit and have to find something new ... moving along

had to remove the hood x-bar to clear the charge cooler ... any reason that would cause issues?

https://i.imgur.com/aN9u5mr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b2l5FLK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HYyPk92.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dkSk5LX.jpg

[6DoF]

yeah, I seen that set of pics but I was wondering what it looks like with fenders on from a little way back, so a full side shot, just to see the whole thing in perspective. if you don't have one thats ok, sooner or later there will be one as you move along in your build.

ok ... so i was not able to get the full height pic this weekend ... i couldn't bring myself to fake it i want it to be real and achieved, but my air system wasn't up to it. excuses: 1) air compressors aren't hooked up so i can only get 170psi from the shop air vs the 200psi i should get. 2) i had installed a psi regulator to set max height with, but it turned out to be 250psi capable and only a 125spi max output. only enough air to get me to 7". 3) the new air switches came and i was missing plumbing bits to ditch the reg and get it aired up. but they should be here today!

i finally broke down and bought myself the Aire Jax switches. the look and feel amazing, plus simplify the air lines in the truck 10x. they are mounted and ready, i just need the 3/8" npt to 3/8" tube straight fittings. no clue why i never thought about this orientation before either, but these are super easy to reach from outside the truck, or while driving.

https://i.imgur.com/BNiqTWzl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WxXFNJjl.jpg

[MBood82]

was toying with an idea while looking things over. pretty much "all the guys" were hating on it, but lets hear what you guys all think.

there's already an interesting dichotomy in this truck of new vs old, so why not with mechanical and electronic as well? i intend to push this engine, so for my own engineering entertainment and to really get it right, i really want/need full datalogging with a huge array of sensors. even just the basics are already too many gauge pods for this truck. the best way i think I've found is the Holley Pro dash. no way it'll fit behind the factory v-bezel, even if i wanted to be missing some screen. so what if i put the big screen for all the gauges and controls mid-dash? then i could do a phone mount in the factory cluster bezel for tunes/navigation.

thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/GbVbhjtl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DIA1lg4l.jpg

What is the situation with the glovebox? Could you mount the display such that it could swing down and with the glovebox open give you the whole suite of data but when it's closed you just have some select, important gauges by the steering column? That would leave you room for a radio in the traditional area, they likely make "old look" radios that between them and carefully selected gauges would keep the traditional look in the cabin while giving you the functionality behind the scenes.

Alternatively, could you do a drop down slide from behind the dash? I have to imagine it's fairly empty back there and you might have room to engineer an angled slide solution of some sort. I'm picturing something that slides down and then pivots some.

If hiding the screen is too difficult, you do have the "benefit" in that you have this wolf in sheeps clothing appearance going on. The external body is original patina, but once past the exterior sheetmetal everywhere else it's new, (relatively) modern and tuned towards performance or comfort, why couldn't the interior be the same way? It would be nice to put some effort into keeping it a little more original inside to keep with the overall "rustic" theme but I wouldn't put too much effort into it.

[nblehm]

I think if you are going to do it you chop up the dash in front of the steering wheel and put it there. Seems weird in the middle. Or you have it hideable

[xj_man_646]

You wouldn't want to be looking in the middle of your dash to see engine vitals if something starts sounding weird on the road (as an example). I would not put it there.

[6DoF]

so it begins ...

i only have a few things to hook up, but there are so many damn wires!!

https://i.imgur.com/qogarqj.jpg

[6DoF]

i have always HATED the "Christmas tree press-in clip" style zip ties on factory harnesses. just a pain, never reusable, etc. well while working on the wife's vette i finally bought a bag of 100 of em and i'm starting to really like them. now that i can just cut em off n replace they are super handy. 1/4" hole, super secure, done.

also, this cheap split seam loom from amazon is way better than that old plastic corrugation stuff i've used in the past.

https://i.imgur.com/rnXmqchl.jpg

[6DoF]

found these split loom tools online and printing a few different sizes of them now. made things 1000x easier.

https://www.printables.com/model/662378-wire-loom-tool-kabelfresser-werkzeug

https://media.printables.com/media/prints/662378/images/5216784_d01cab5f-b806-4c28-91ba-623b1852979d_f4d305ca-32c1-4793-9a49-855698e5cead/thumbs/cover/320x240/jpg/c5da777fb4c5e42123d52c7ab856c5d4_display_large_662 378.webp

[6DoF]

ok, the painless harness for the win. as i started i was hesitant to reorganize or cut things, but after getting into it, that just works. as soon as i have a wiring issue with my 93 it's just getting all-new from scratch too.

https://j.gifs.com/KrjaEZ.gif

i really keep feeling like i want to make a funnel scoop cut into the front/side of the hood to bath the air filter. not sticking up or out at all, just thru the bulge right above/around the filter.

then here's how i ran the wiring. with no inner fenders at the moment, it's just attached to the under side of the fender at that lip. i made 2 nice big pass-thru grommets to then get behind the grill to hide the crossover and the fan relay. horn ordered, that's the green wire. i really like how all that hid really nicely behind the header latch panel. big blue wire is a ground strap. made a few different harness sections under the hood, i was worried that would look a mess but i think worked. the coil around the breather bottle are gauge sensor wires. i even put little 10-32 nutcerts in the cowl for that main harness fuse.

inside had such a massive pile of wires, but they are pre-bundled. by that time i was on a roll and just started hacking. left enough for easy servicing, wound up stuff for future use n BAM. lights work, switch is fully functional. key works, starts the damn thing, and splitting the ACC and IGN sets so the fans are on with the IGN but only the air compressors are on for the ACC.

i did end up hooking up the blinkers in the mid-bar in the headlights. hoping once i get the rear plugged in she'll actually flash.

https://i.imgur.com/77hYQbNl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cTJp565l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4m8EVrQl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9r1uHP0l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OFYCZrMl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/k8Ft5RRl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uCZWNNPl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jw6B7D0l.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Looking good! I've never had a good time with wiring :lol:

[6DoF]

Looking good! I've never had a good time with wiring :lol:

it's always been a sour spot for me too ... never looks good, factory makes it always harder than it should be, etc. this harness not only made it not suck, but was pretty satisfying.

[xj_man_646]

I like the loom tool. That is pretty cool.

[nblehm]

My J10 could use a new harness. The factory jeep wiring under the dash is a rats nest (from the factory)

I pulled all the wiring out of my flat fender and intend to use a universal set up. I need all of about 4 circuits though :lol:

[6DoF]

first look at full concept! fenders mounted back n slightly down on the bedside, bedside mounted high and outboard. at full drop i have a very tight 1 finger between the tire and the fender. So unlike factory i actually lined up the body line between the cab to rear fender.

the running board is just sitting on the ground, i'll have to bend up some filler panels to get them mounted. also some kind of support cuz someone will stand on them. i'm debating how i deal with the gap to the cab after the fender moved back. buy a new re-pop board and just splice a section in? cut up 2 new boards to make one new long one? the passenger side is easy cuz it's space for the exhaust, so maybe i mount something else at the back of the cab? my only thoughts have been a Jerry Can holder for spare fuel or WMO. ... NOS bottle? :lol:

grabbed some scrap CORTEN steel i still have left over from from building the house to make the new wider header for the bed. i freaking love weathering steel, specially for a project like this. the bent sections worked out really well and is actually really stiff. it's not attached to the frame yet for access reasons ... but i'll eventually get that bolted.

5'2" wide, 9' long, 13" deep, and a flat floor. that's actually a considerable amount of space, especially for a slammed truck. i helped my wife cut all the plywood bed floor sections, used 3/4" pressure treated. once it's had some time to dry, she wants to paint or stain something interesting in it. i'm hoping to just find a 5x9 rubber mat to lay down in there.

https://i.imgur.com/SGnUFYB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8AxKkYX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cPKLIBe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EulC9mP.jpg

[Cobound]

No words :rock:

[6DoF]

The List:
(before i drive it to work)
- bracing for the rear of the bed side (made, just needs welded in)
- cut the bed sides in the fender well to fit both tires back on
- taillights (have brackets and lights, wiring 90% run)
- new battery box to mount the new single GP31 commercial
- charge cooler hoses, mount reservoir, fill with water
- final zip-tie'ing of junk along the chassis
- alignment

(before i drive it to WI in July)
- screw down bed floor
- gauges
- f/r bumpers

[Cobound]

Update us on the WI venture in July - where and when, specifics, cuz I'd love to see that bitch in person!

[MBood82]

X2, you'll probably drive right by!

[6DoF]

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/77b430_738b5ce158dc47168c99ced2f2b6762d~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_350,h_297,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/CarshowLogo__5100%20x%204327%20pixels_.png

https://www.iolaoldcarshow.com/

if all goes well, driving up July 11th ... show 12th - 13th ... driving home 14th. a buddy who lives in the WI thumb invited me and a few other friends up for the weekend, we might only be doing one day at the show.

[6DoF]

last night was busy ... got the rear bed side supports in and they worked amazing. that bed is SOLID now. i'm actually getting excited for the body work to build a tailgate. i'm torn between stitching 2 re-pop together or building one from scratch that'll open level with the bed floor. i'm leaning that direction currently.

got he tail lights installed, but not wired yet. they weren't fitting well down low with the fender crammed against the bed side upright ... then i found the exact spacing and and angled holes again up top, with a hole to run wires from already there. they just bolted on, kinda felt like a sign. up higher on the dropped truck will also be easier for the other idiot drivers to see.

chopped up the 2 battery tray's i had to make one bigger jobbie that will fit my new Group31 commercial battery. same battery as my 1st gen 12v truck, i do like to standardize. pretty sure it will actually fit on the outside of the frame behind the passenger tires with easy access by just popping off the little bed floor square back there. thinking about how to make that section quick disconnect too.

https://i.imgur.com/7EqQEYr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BGE0yQY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iFO08li.jpg

[xj_man_646]

That looks awesome. Who are you visiting in WI? Anyone from MTU?

[6DoF]

so right now it actually looks like Colin (philyZJ) will be riding with me out there, Stevie is driving up, and we'll be staying with Kevin (had that stock tan/burgundy square body Dak at MTU)

would be awesome to see other ppl at the show!

[Cobound]

Dammit, Iola, I knew that was going to be it. Bownut always went to that prior to moving to CO...it's a good show, you'll enjoy it, but likely a bit too far for me to jaunt when I already have cabin things on the calendar :p

[MBood82]

so right now it actually looks like Colin (philyZJ) will be riding with me out there, Stevie is driving up, and we'll be staying with Kevin (had that stock tan/burgundy square body Dak at MTU)

would be awesome to see other ppl at the show!

Let me know what day you end up going, it's a ~3 hour drive for me and I bet my neighbor and his kid would love to tag along.

I wouldn't drive the K5 that far but would bring the 300C at least. I'd be happy to show off the K5 on your way by though, my house is only 15 minutes off I-94 (Gurnee exit) and I could meet you somewhere closer if you need to make time.

[xj_man_646]

Maybe I'll need to take a cruise over that way to say hi to you fools. Only a few hours away.

[6DoF]

Dat a$s!

https://i.imgur.com/fxFM652.jpg

[6DoF]

they backfilled the barn yesterday, so as soon as the new battery tray was sorted i went for a photo op! and immediately got stuck.

https://i.imgur.com/3BqlTGc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IlHy4Jg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cEXwHJ1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/996DPj1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FtQUH0w.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3IUaupW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Nh7W0rE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z7dxtC5.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Hell yeah, that looks so awesome! Gonna be one of the coolest tow rigs out there.

[Cobound]

That thing is sooooo long, and sexy.

LOL, made for good pix tho, so getting stuck was worth it!

[6DoF]

that was a shockingly productive weekend even though it feels like i wasted a lot of it in couch-potato mode.

the gauge cluster is officially installed and fully functional! the Dakota Digital guys really do make it super easy. i already had sensor wires in the painless harness and their kit had whole new pre-terminated runs with nice connectors. playing with colors, i was thinking more subtle but the wife wanted the green :lol: it's amazing how many wires ended up behind the dash too, freaking crazy. everything is in harness form, so it's actually pretty organized when your hands are in there, and the dash modules have a service loop to all pull out of the dash for access. still looks trash til the cluster is screwed in :lol: there are also 4 different coils of multiple wires for future add-ons or unused circuits shoved back there too. ideal i'd pull the entire harness back out and remove a LOT of wire. one day, just not today.

as part of finishing up all the wiring while i had that mess out, i needed a phone charger. found a USB adapter in my cabinet and got it mounted to the factory dash strut. easy access, out of the way, and mostly hidden. i actually had the dash control rocker switch there, but was too weird to hold a button while turning the key on for setup. left hand access is way better, and easier to toggle screens while driving. i still had no way to cover the last remaining factory hole in the dash til the wife said phone mount. so obvious now! quick print and she's really solid. after I'm sure i don't want to make any more changes I'll print it in carbon filled matte black to match everything else. eventually i'll toss the bluetooth retro radio in there and the phone will control it all anyways.

i'm a little stuck waiting on parts at the moment ... new 1410 double cardin to take in and have a new drive shaft made ... extension adapters to get the air suspension sensors hooked to the dash so i have a setpoint to do an alignment from ... that's when i actually get to do a real test drive.

https://i.imgur.com/t5Sffa9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VMgnibM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cRqxd2X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SfnRUyc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cIURSUY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VD4RLXY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4jY9YJT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OcbFvmd.jpg

[Cobound]

I like the blue, more subtle, not sure what other color I'd want in there...but something uniform and light. Not green. But, happy wife...

Super clean dash, all of it is clean inside there - nice! I've gotten more patient w/ age, and wanting things more particular. When I did my dad's shifter wiring I took my time, got it all off and back on w/o breaking a single tab...15-20 years ago I would have had to order more parts to replace what I broke taking something off :lol:

[6DoF]

oh yeah, that's just day mode ... as soon as you turn the headlights on it totally changes! right now it's set for much dimmer, all red numbering, soft blue-white pointers, dim grey text on the screen and again red numbers.

gotta keep that night vision honed

[6DoF]

i actually even got a vid of that!

https://i.imgur.com/UCtW0bg.mp4

[Cobound]

:rock:

[xj_man_646]

Looking good, Matt.

Details on your 3D printed phone mount? I think you've mentioned it before, details elude me though.

[6DoF]

it's the magnetic QuadLock mount with wireless charging. i have the locking one in the jeep to keep things from falling out. but they are SUPER nice to just slap it up there, it's clocked and won't slide, plus charging.

https://www.quadlockcase.com/collections/mag/products/mag-wireless-charging-head?variant=42042648887467

as for the 3D print ... just the same ball size on a base that fit the dash hole, one screw thru the middle and a washer trimmed for the cord hole on the back. i've made these ball mounts before and the thin post can be a weak point, running the screw up into the ball makes them super solid.

https://i.imgur.com/M9yn7Lh.jpg

[6DoF]

testing FTW ... holy crap ... i think i was getting close to an electrical fire. the fuse block i used in the back is NOT up to the task!

i got some speed valves on the front bags for dump, and 4 corner psi sensors wired to the dash. while testing the sensors and setting the valve speeds the compressors, fans, and water pump were running. i didn't want to go over the pump duty cycle, so i turned the truck off and went to pull the fuses ... WHERE I BURNT MY HAND! not just ouch, like blistered 2nd degree burn on the '+' stud! whole panel was hot enough to smell it. all the wires were cool 6-8" away so they are doing fine, but the panel was cooking everything.

pumps were probably pulling 15+ amps each ... the fan bank was maybe 15 total ... and the water pump is like 3. new fuse panel is rated for 40amps per fuse or 150amps total. the grounds i'm also splitting off into a separate block.

FAKK ... :james:

[wrath]

What panel was it? Was it a Blue Sea Systems?

[Cobound]

How does that case compare to others - thicker, lighter, heavier?? :dunno:

I like my case now, and my 67 Designs - but that system is pretty decent...and I have multiple vehicles I could use it for that the 67 Designs doesn't build them for.

But it really looks like it comes down to having to use their proprietary case for that head to work.

[6DoF]

i love the case. one pc, real snug, has proven very protective and robust, and the whole integrated mount is basically an unnoticeable thickness. last 3 phones have all had these cases, not one issue.

[nblehm]

I love the Dakota digital dash in my j10. Wish I would have done it sooner.

[6DoF]

everything has been perfect, first shot, but i was actually having issues with one of their modules ... called, got what sounded like a less than knowledgeable tech ... then he had me fixed up in like 3 minutes. game on.

they do now make a set for my Ram too, but not the fancy one

[nblehm]

I was all about making my original gauges work in the j10. And they did but the temp gauge was wonky (like a lot of them fsj). Now I’m a convert, anything old that Dakota digital makes gauges for will get them. Just work so well

[6DoF]

100% agreed, if there's any question just do it. they even have a sick HDX now for the XJ/TJ!

[6DoF]

new fuse block is much nicer, and much cooler!

found a new suspension sensor was leaking, hope that's fixed now

driveshaft should be ready today or tomorrow. i'm so anxious for street trials!

worked out the alignment last night and that went easier than i thought for my first attempt at an IFS. i was WAY off to start, so there's no way this isn't better :lol: tech tip, rather than buying the spendy alignment plates, this worked amazing. 2 dollar store pizza pans on a drip tray with oil between them. i could wiggle the truck and move it side to side, i could turn the steering, engine off, full weight of the cummins, with one hand reaching in the window.

https://i.imgur.com/XbXdriM.jpg

[6DoF]

https://media0.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExajBkc3Z4endxY2Fub244bDh4NGh6Yjk 1bW44cWl3dXNlN3d1YTNqMCZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfY nlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/6onMzNPjtFeCI/giphy.gif

IT'S A REAL TRUCK!!! holy sh!t, shoot, crap, AAAAAHHHHH!!! i'm can't even contain myself i'm so excited. it has no business being as good as it is already, i'm freakin out.

https://i.imgur.com/2eFusK4.jpghttp://
https://i.imgur.com/81SmUtw.jpg

[6DoF]

ok, so reality. first drive went REALLY well.

did a little around the block and some quick back n forth while the wife was at home on-call to get me if issues ... then grabbed her and we drove right out to town for bolts. the idea was back roads out to tractor supply and back. well, they didn't have what i needed, things were going well, so WTH n down the road to ACE. they had what i needed and ended up with about a 23mile loop.

it rides good for no adjusting yet, brakes are awesome, clutch is nice, shifts smooth, runs strong, makes all kinds of turbo noises even at next to no throttle, shockingly quite to drive, the air suspension has stopped leaking after the drive even! the looks i got were fun, we'll say it catches some attention.

engine needs more gauges and a good bit of tuning. won't idle below 1000, has a haze at idle, and won't start without a throttle blip. i'm pretty sure the governor springs are set wrong, and i just needs lots of time turning screws. the big issue is that i'm 98% sure if i go full send, i'll YEET the head gasket. so i'm trying to be careful!

steering is a touch stiff, but less notching while driving than i thought it would be moving around the yard. i'll still want to adjust angles one day, but good enough for now. speedo isn't showing, hopefully just need to re-sink the gps module to the dash, S475 turbo drain is leaking oil, and the breather is NOT enough and started blowing oil. much more breathers need added.

https://i.imgur.com/wYniLsX.jpg

[Cobound]

All I got is.... :rock: :us:

[MBood82]

It's crazy how far that truck has come. I'm thrilled to hear that it went as smoothly as it did for the first ride, that has to be a shot in the arm to getting the details sorted now.

Can't wait to see it with an Airstream behind it!

[6DoF]

It's crazy how far that truck has come. I'm thrilled to hear that it went as smoothly as it did for the first ride, that has to be a shot in the arm to getting the details sorted now.

Can't wait to see it with an Airstream behind it!

thanks!

and as much of a shot as it's been to keep dialing it in ... i need to start building my shop now. no clue how much time that'll actually take.

[6DoF]

Friday night i got out to the first cruise, had an absolute blast talking to everyone. no one really knew what it make of it! :rock: there was a huge parking lot behind where i'm taking the picture, i was "late" and in the overflow. ended up with a few rows of cars in the grass yet that evening.

Goal Achieved! grass shut in the door :rock:

https://i.imgur.com/9KCBGOR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cCOgNB0.jpg

[6DoF]

turbo drain seal fixed, no leak. the stupid o-ring wasn't thick enough for the groove they put in the part. i just cut a new paper gasket from a roll i had, left the oring, and tightened her back up. guess that worked.

catch can had an internal filter that was restrictive, ditched that. i also forgot to put the steel wool de-mister in the can, so added that. then added 2 more breathers off my 2 oil caps in the front of the engine, no more breather oil. just the front main and rear main leaking oil :lol:

added some firewall insulation, as you could imagine that was getting uncomfortably hot inside with the hot pipe basically touching. the wrap does a lot, but not quite that much. it's just warm now, so huge game on.

https://i.imgur.com/VdVDDnz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PCAcYwn.jpg

[6DoF]

the wife had a dream recently that i had 3D printed mounts for a Bluetooth speaker under the dash. she woke up and ordered me this little Bose unit. no way i wasn't going to then print mounts for it! so far no latch of any kind, just cradles it. the rubber like body seams to keep it from moving at all.

with a mount, seamed like a great place to put and hide my "AFC Live" fuel control. should work just like the production version from Power Driven Diesel, but was like 10x cheaper. one bypass valve, an orifice valve to slow the boost signal to the injection pump, and one pressure regulator to set max boost the pump sees. allows you to set the springs and screws in the pump for max power, then dial it back for no smoke and smoother daily driving. or if lazy, have the screws n springs set wrong, and dial in appropriate fueling. in my case, i need to keep the power in check as i should have enough turbo and fuel capacity to yeet the head gasket before i shift gears.

https://i.imgur.com/Iua2Km8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S16E13Y.jpg

[6DoF]

finally the wife got bored and decided to see why i kept talking about washing the truck with CLR and a soft scotchbright pad. so far, so good! she wants to go over it again with the CLR, and i need to order some patina sauce ASAP.

a fair bit of brown reduction, not sure if it worked more or less than i was expecting haha. the nicest part is everything getting a TON smoother after the rub down. but now it almost looks weird with less blotch blue.

https://i.imgur.com/TAFhb90.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dUO3MlU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JIsKvVl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IeGYGEA.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Awesome to see it on the road :rock:.

[Cobound]

More gay by the day - guys sucking yer nipples at every stop and drop :lol:

[nblehm]

The comet wash with steel wool works great too.


Coming out rad!

[6DoF]

as of Friday, we are free! the driveway is awesome, so so much better. and yet, i got Lil' Blue stuck in the driveway :lol:

so after putting in a lot of work on the barn, it was time to circle back to the truck for a bit. getting some tuning taken care of but mainly went after getting the hitch and rear bumper location figured out. decided i really needed to have the hitch on before doing the bumper mounting.

i don't always take weld pictures, but these turned out particularly nice. this thing aint goin nowhere. a few extra gussets to the chassis, a few close out panels to clean up, and i'm really happy how it turned out. 2.5" receiver, CHECK! the power connection will be mounted to the bumper, so it's just zip-tied up for now.

but then since i have a hitch, must test it out! hitched up the airstream and went for a cruise. she towed perfectly, better than expected, barely even know it was back there. absolutely next level reactions on the road too. thumbs up out the window, waving, the smiles and nods, it was cool to see. until i got home. round the new corner, building boost, head up the gravel hill where the 2wd starts to spin. not enough weight on the rear end yet for the total rig weight. got RIGHT to the top and she stopped spinning and dug. had to back all the way down the driveway and around the corners back to the road where i could unhitch and run up to get the Grand Chero-car. booo i know the picture just a post or 2 ago doesn't look steep, but it's hard to walk on cuz the gravel just slips out from under you.

https://i.imgur.com/1qDdOTK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/r0bnxvA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eFeMefL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eNawo8z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IJXi2og.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Hell yeah!

[Dennis]

They are a great combo!
Looking good!

[Cobound]

I love that you've shared this and we've been able to follow - you should consider doing Back to the 50's in St Paul in the coming years - join James and me for a spin!

:rock:

[Hoofmann]

That looks so rad!

Congratulations on a running project! I know it’s not done and probably never will be. :p

[6DoF]

fixed it! it's soooo much better now ... almost too smooth. pretty sure i'll be adding clicks to actually make it a little more responsive, and for a little more top RPM just cuz race truck things.

so first thing last night, lets try the cam plate. well, it's already fully to passenger side, crap. try mid, try full drivers, no change. time to pull the idle spring and see what's up for settings that way. feel like i'm going to drop stuff in the pump, and the wife offers to stop on her way home for a new pen magnet for me. she's awesome. in the mean time i watch the PDD gov spring install to see what i missed cuz none of the adjustment instructions make any sense on mine. see nothing i don't remember, go start pulling it all out just to make sure something stupid didn't happen like ... wait ... ffaaawwwwwkkkk ... i put the springs in upside down with the bottom seat on top.

throw it all back together with a conservative click count, now all the descriptions make sense and are super easy to set up. back to the cam plate, still little change, but obviously was full passenger for it's entire life, lock it down and send it. she now starts with no throttle input, idles at like 800 cold n 830 warm, brakes or steering don't affect it much, i can even get going in 2nd gear with no throttle. almost like that's how it was designed!

[nblehm]

That looks so rad!

Congratulations on a running project! I know it’s not done and probably never will be. :p

He is going to have to cut the whole front end out now because he got stuck in the driveway :lol:

[6DoF]

He is going to have to cut the whole front end out now because he got stuck in the driveway :lol:

no no no no ... still better to be able to set it on the ground, and when i got home Saturday i just unhitched in the road n got the GC to start with :lol:

[6DoF]

truck did great, but it needs AC freakin ASAP. speaking of AC, the airstream's worked great until the condensation started running out between the wall panels instead of the drain. tried a few things but i'll need to tear the covers off and that can wait til sweater weather.

5th gear, 65mph, 2300 R's, it just didn't care that the trailer was back there. on the way out was 93deg, high humidity, and some of the long up-hill runs into the mountains the engine would get to 208, once to 214, but right back down to 190s on the downhill. might need a little more cooling capacity to run AC and pull a 10k trailer. but that's a Future Matt problem.

the waves, thumbs up, camera's, was crazy. ppl at the campground were obviously talking about it cuz ppl would come by and know some of the details already :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/eM0ovqJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dC1PN9H.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hvn56jz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yf2Og7h.jpg

[xj_man_646]

How is it in the truck with the exhaust dumping right behind the cab?

[6DoF]

How is it in the truck with the exhaust dumping right behind the cab?

2 spiral mufflers and the FTE resonator ... you basically don't notice the exhaust next to the turbo whistle and general 12V noises.

the extra thick lizard skin on the valve covers, oil pan, and tappet cover i think made a really big difference worth the effort too. you'll never make that engine quiet, but the harshness is gone.

[nblehm]

Pretty sick man! Probably hard to relax at the camp ground having to answer questions the whole time.

[6DoF]

Pretty sick man! Probably hard to relax at the camp ground having to answer questions the whole time.

naw, it wasn't that bad, ppl were very nice about it. we also kept driving off to go help set up at the camp my wife is volunteering at this week. was just the other side of the beach.

[Cobound]

:rock: :us:

[6DoF]

new bits! got the bed floor screwed down and the fuel filler set up. floor is just pressure treated 3/4" ply stained black. it'll eventually get a full rubber bed cover, just not decided between utility or fancy yet. battery hatch i used 2 marine hatch latches for easy access, the maintenance/show door in the middle will get another pair with some hinges.

the fuel filler i can't take full credit for, I saw the jerry can filler neck on insta-tube or whatever propaganda site it was scrolling. the dual filler however was me and i hope it works as well as i'm thinking it will. we'll find out after work when i try n fill it. so the can is screwed to the bedside, you open the lid to reveal a Y tube. stick the fuel nozzle down one or the other and send it. each has their own vent. the tanks have a balance tube between them and i only draw/return to one, but it's not enough to fill thru. a check valve does keep it from draining away from the main in a long corner or hill.

the side of the jerry can is cut out for easy access, but will get covered by an old job box. it's next on my list to get off the garage floor. will be nice to have some extra storage to just throw stuff.

https://i.imgur.com/oqbw99l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9oVxq9B.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GqjMSkz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mcfEPZs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gpECLYH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fks2ULG.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Can you share more details on the CLR wash? Soft scotch brite would be red? Follow it up with a general soap / water wash?

I really like the fuel filler idea. Nice work!

[6DoF]

Can you share more details on the CLR wash? Soft scotch brite would be red? Follow it up with a general soap / water wash?

I really like the fuel filler idea. Nice work!


so the CLR is to remove rust stain from the paint or some oxidation, could do it with a nice towel too. the soft scurbby helps break down the heavier areas and rust flake, basically becomes a wet-sanding. soft scrubby on your car and i'd bet a quick follow with a buffer to get that thing to shine.

we've been using a 50/50 clr n water and just scrubbing it. harder where it's bad and less over the cleaner paint. i'm following that with just a hose rinse in sections so it can't ever dry.

once i finish, i got this stuff to go over it all. i cant' see doing any form of curing coating, just oil/wax and re-apply time to time.

https://sweetpatina.com/

[wrath]

If you want to remove rust stain and rust altogether, it's tough to beat muriatic acid (aka weak hydrochloric acid) is super cheap for the job. Need to wear gloves. It's cheap at the home improvement store known as concrete etcher. I use it for all sorts of ****, including cleaning pontoons. Just don't do it on concrete or limestone as the fumes are terrible as it reacts with it.

You can also get HCl in gel format which is what I prefer from a lot of industrial supply houses but it's expensive usually...

You can get weaker HCl at auto body refinish places but again it's usually at a premium. Sometimes they have phosphoric acid. Sometimes they sell them as gel and or foaming type, which again is super handy for vertical surfaces.

Citric acid (like what is found in Iron Out) is handy, because you can get it in gel format at any store so you can spray it on and move it around and not pay attention to it like most other bathroom cleaner sprays that have phosphoric and glycolic acid (AKA CLR) that dry fast and run. I use the Iron Out gel for bathrooms on painted surfaces a lot.

If you're super impatient like me, you can skip using the non-scratching scotchbrite pads and use 2000 grit wet/dry to speed things up with the muriatic acid.


Edit: You can also use oxalic acid because it's way less abusive on iron... but it's super poisonous and can be absorbed through the skin way easier than the rest of the acids (that usually just cause burns and whatnot). I use it on thin iron pieces I can't risk pitting on.

[6DoF]

yeah, i use the acid to prep old metal for paint but i can't see using it on patina. it also makes the rust black-ish, and often leaves white mess that needs ground back off.

[6DoF]

before and after CLR wash and Patina Sauce. 3 coats, and since the final wipe down and a few days, it's less shiny now.

https://i.imgur.com/TAFhb90.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/piYLtu6.jpeg

[xj_man_646]

Did you use the VGG recipe?

I want to give the Impala the soapy quad-zero SOS pad treatment and a buff. That will be next Spring though, she's about to go into the barn for the winter.

[6DoF]

no, this is Sweet Patina - Patina Sauce. when i was looking i wasn't sure the VGG stuff was just the oil/wax.

i'm going to try a DIY mix on the job box to compare

https://sweetpatina.bigcartel.com/product/dynamic-duo

[xj_man_646]

Nice. That looks pretty darn good.

[6DoF]

ok, did a little more research on the sauces and decided to buy 1gal of boiled linseed oil, plus 1qt of mineral spirits. 5x the sauce, 30% cheaper. i'll mix this up and use it on the job box (currently nothing on it) and compare.

the patina sauce smells like sun tan lotion or pina colada ... i should mix some "essential oils" or something in this DIY batch for a different scent. wife might stop helping me if it smells chemical-like :lol:

[xj_man_646]

I think VGG uses those two ingredients plus a dash of WD-40 or something like that.

[6DoF]

ordered some chocolate "essential oil" for my DIY batch :lol:

[xj_man_646]

:lol:

[MBood82]

How many miles have you put on the truck at this point? Any issues since you took it on the first break-in run?

[6DoF]

i'm over 1000 miles now. only real issue is the drivers front suspension came loose and dropped some alignment shims. glad i caught it while it was still as easy as just putting more back in and retorqueing it.

[MBood82]

Nice!

What's next for it, beyond the cosmetic work you've been doing?

[6DoF]

next next will be the bumpers/tailgate ... then i'd really like to get my diesel gauges going. after that it's into finish/redo the rear wheel houses, bed side steps to hide the fuel tanks, HVAC, etc, etc, and probably finally build the race engine.

[Cobound]

Hey, man, it's been a full month and then some - what other projects are keeping you from updating this :squint:

[6DoF]

- P7100 swap on the '93 (see that thread)
- finishing details on the Toy Box shell (i'll have to check when i last updated that thread)
- started putting up Toy Box ceiling insulation

Now that Hank is into tuning and i can drive it, next i'll be doing a set of tube fenders for Dietz new LJ. highline, integrated flare, etc. new design for me, and keeping the factory inner fender in the factory location. wish me luck!

[Cobound]

Ha, saw the '93 thread...yeah, you got some irons in the fire :p

Best of luck as you wished ;)

[6DoF]

threw the 55 iron back in the fire! time to get this thing ready for spring, and ready for summer airstream trips.

first up, cutting down the job box. sectioned 5" out of it for WAY better rear viz, and it looks better. left 1" on the floor to keep the edges straight, then shoved that back into the box for an overlap to help water intrusion when only stitch welding it back together.

next is getting the bed sealed up so i can use it as a real bed. bed mat ordered to clean up the floor and protect things, plus the tailgate is almost done. cut down the factory chains even for the shorter gate. not sure i actually need the lift-off hinge like a modern gate, but it was fun to fab either way.

i'm working on ordering a OneGauge kit so i can monitor everything about the 12v and tuning. no screen, just TORQUE on my phone since i already have a nice mount for it on the dash. can always add one later if i need to.

https://i.imgur.com/h7dVPBa.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/3VVp0U6.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/7E7kbaj.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/B0Wb36r.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/nyMU2aS.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/tQhDoHy.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/x19qONk.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/5Z900QQ.jpeg

[xj_man_646]

Looking good!

[MBood82]

The attention to detail on this build is definitely cool. You are right, you didn't "need" to have the factory capability of lifting the gate off, but it doesn't seem like it was hard to do and gives you more flexibility and "hidden details" that make it a better build.

[xj_man_646]

How does this OneGauge work? It doesn't rely on OBD data to show you engine vitals? Being the 12v is purely mechanical, I'm curious how that is going to work without some fancy interface from electronic / mechanical sensor to this system.

What are your plans for engine data + navigation? Do you have a standalone GPS vs using your phone?

[6DoF]

thanks dude!

James, check em out, it's just a totally customizable data collection / display system. the dude has been hugely helpful to discuss custom programming and options.

https://www.theonegauge.com/

as for nav vs gauges, I'm hoping once i get everything dialed in that i won't NEED to constantly watch gauges. or there's PIP for maps in android. i'm also trying to figure out if i can set up a warning light output from the OneGauge to trip a check engine light on the dash.

[MBood82]

That OneGauge setup seems pretty sweet. I could see going that route eventually on my K5. I've always loved the dash on the K5, and it has all the major readouts available, but accuracy is pretty suspect. I'd love to keep the look of the original gauges but have a hidden screen where I could check the actual status periodically. Since it's currently OBDI, it would be easiest to do a stand alone sensor setup like that. My setup would be $1,210 all in (well, plus tax) but that even includes dual AFR wide band O2 sensors with bungs for my dual exhaust. That seems pretty damn reasonable.

[6DoF]

for the basics and factory look/fit, i love the Dakota Digital RTX dash. 110% recommend that first.

[MBood82]

I've looked at the various digital dashes available for the C/K trucks. They are nice, but they don't look factory, just fit the existing holes. The factory gauges on this truck just look "right" to me.

[6DoF]

oh man! going back and forth with the OneGauge guy and he's looking into if he can send all the gauges attached to it thru a generic CAN signal into the Dakota Digital dash! that would let me use the current little screen in the dash to monitor anything and set warning limits that wouldn't require my phone. then i could use the phone for JUST data logging or viewing more info bigger while tuning.