Project: PapaBear

[6DoF]

1999 2.5/auto

121,000 miles
bone stock
interior is awesome, AC, soundbar, center console
new sailcloth sunrider top in 2006, never been off
good tires
effectively ZERO rust!
cam lobe worn round

$1500

**January 2010**

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19448_554589451197_1742645_n.jpg?oh=6d41cf7c22a8d7 32a5730f8d7ff0e0f9&oe=5A4DAD45
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19448_554631037857_6515036_n.jpg?oh=bba1b3578303b4 81268eba7e78b65544&oe=5A3D2F66

**March 2010**

the new 2.5 i swapped in was not up to the task, swapped in another.

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23812_559755802787_7667105_n.jpg?oh=3e0605ba83f0a6 74a449edbe27cedd0b&oe=5A4E985A

[6DoF]

**March 2011**

highline fenders and rear axle/4-link

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/197600_590455854637_3512290_n.jpg?oh=9986eeb9d8ee8 b260ec284da5fb431e5&oe=5A420D64
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/198068_590455959427_2300410_n.jpg?oh=9d224e4be2fc9 4fe4a7b91017a824746&oe=5A3FEEC6

**November 2011**

got the 6.0L / NV4500 / D300 up and running

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/376853_666606657817_387295037_n.jpg?oh=ea1302f41d2 fb7f41efef77683a2fb1d&oe=5A83696B

[6DoF]

**July 2016**

finished up full cage

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13599878_10100471832580587_5582223829191808049_n.j pg?oh=ef603573cd08ded23e370153188ef919&oe=5A3E4858

**april 2017**

complete new rear FF 9" and 12" COs

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13599878_10100471832580587_5582223829191808049_n.j pg?oh=ef603573cd08ded23e370153188ef919&oe=5A3E4858

[6DoF]

now on to current events! so last year when i blew up the drive shaft and d300 output, i kind of think i might have also hurt the 4500. left my GMC at the inlaws and was driving the TJ only for a few weeks, including a few short road trips. well it has been making not great noises for a while, but thought maybe it was just finally broken in ... until it started to oil my clutch. 100pts to the SPEC Stage-3 (6-puck ceramic) clutch that while greatly compromised was still able to function perfectly fine to drive it.

[Cobound]

Bummer.

[6DoF]

ok, that SUX that all the pictures linked from FB just loose the link and are gone. i don't want to redo this thread AGAIN. but it looks like maybe Google+ works for hosting. if they stay up, i'll fix the links.

anyways, got the TJ back to B-more last night and up on Ethan's lift. going to pull the trans and find out why it is oiling my clutch, and the under side of the jeep so bad. with some luck it will just be a seal, but i'm pretty sure i'll find other broken parts in there. it's been getting worse ever since the drive shaft / t-case explosion leaving the car cruise.

rear droop is so much more than the front ... gota get that built!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-srdfRrvRKv8/WsIo1gTNbsI/AAAAAAAAlCg/rs-tQ9-ZC-QGGcOLkV8S1WC50jh48GSpACL0BGAs/w530-d-h707-n-rw/IMG_20180401_210111.jpg

[6DoF]

Holy sh!t-balls ... I really thought something was going to be broke in this transmission. Turns out the input seal had fallen inside the transmission, it has almost no land to seat on. As I pulled the input retainer off the seal stayed on the shaft but the seal looks perfectly good. I'm going to buy a new one anyways hoping it press fits in better. Is also a small matter of cleaning a whole lot of lubricant off of a friction surface ...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y5pQl5G6Dcw/WsTBG9cmUwI/AAAAAAAAlKw/Vr-tN-IYOuIWo5bmODah0T2jRYEfH2d5wCJoC/w530-h398-n-rw/7031608128638237533%253Faccount_id%253D0

[xj_man_646]

Brake cleaner is your friend. Good to hear it wasn't anything more serious!

[6DoF]

i've said it before, i'll say it again ... Advance Adapters can choke on a rotting donkey dick and die in a gutter. they have fawked me on every last part, thank god i got to return most of it back when this all started. to be fair i was in a rush and didn't realize in 2001 you could walk into a GM dealer and buy a 2500HD stock with an LQ4 and NV4500.

pilot bushing ... when i did the clutch last year it came with a GM, stock application bearing but it didn't fit my crank. turns out i used AA's 'special crank adapter' to use their 'special bronze bushing', and it all failed miserably. had to cut out the spacer so i can now use the stock GM pc that costs 75% less. fukk you AA.

Bell housing ... this casting is so bad it's not even funny. when i ordered it and put it in the first time with their kit i had to cut chunks out of it to use their parts. they told me "you might need to grind some", dude i used a cut off wheel and chunks fell. well now this new stock application clutch has machined it away! you can see where a chunk was missing in the casting on the top inside left vs right and just made a huge thick spot. same on the right side rib, just thicker then whats around it. fukk you AA.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I07T1FtUHQc/WsYYIlUCA7I/AAAAAAAAlMI/9RJfXEVekv0D3uRRlHPJgpiz-rCU8XsnwCJoC/w530-h398-n-rw/IMG_20180404_173321.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QzwL38tZ2jg/WsYYqxu74ZI/AAAAAAAAlMY/kJiVqEVEXgQzBRp-_QownJjbGt6icrj9gCJoC/w530-h398-n-rw/IMG_20180404_180829.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Wow. That really blows.

Yeah, you could get a 6.0L/NV4500 until the GMT900 platform I believe. They're hard to find, but they're out there.

[MBood82]

Wow. That really blows.

Yeah, you could get a 6.0L/NV4500 until the GMT900 platform I believe. They're hard to find, but they're out there.

You could even get the 8.1 with a stick, though I don't think it was the NV4500 but a six speed transmission. I saw one for sale a while back somewhere down south, dark green color, extended cab, low miles, it was perfect. I'd have a hard time not grabbing one of those today if I saw it!

[6DoF]

You could even get the 8.1 with a stick, though I don't think it was the NV4500 but a six speed transmission. I saw one for sale a while back somewhere down south, dark green color, extended cab, low miles, it was perfect. I'd have a hard time not grabbing one of those today if I saw it!

those came with a ZF6!

[nblehm]

You could even get the 8.1 with a stick, though I don't think it was the NV4500 but a six speed transmission. I saw one for sale a while back somewhere down south, dark green color, extended cab, low miles, it was perfect. I'd have a hard time not grabbing one of those today if I saw it!

Does anybody actually want an 8.1 though?

[xj_man_646]

8.1 is a sweet engine. You could argue the loss in MPG could make up for the extra maintenance of a newer diesel, depending on how much you need to use it. I probably wouldn't DD one, but for a weekend tow rig, I'd consider it.

I recently learned what a POS GM made the GMT800 manual transmission trucks. The pedal/bracket assembly is all plastic, and the master cylinder is some kind of 1/4 turn-lock mechanism that is prone to shooting out of the firewall randomly. Really has turned me off of wanting one of those.

[nblehm]

2nd gen Cummins use a 1/4 turn master for the clutch. Not a big deal if they are installed right.

[xj_man_646]

The giant plastic contraption that it attaches to is the main issue.

http://www.screaminseemanoffroad.com/image/product/279-694-800x600-clutch-pedal.jpg

[6DoF]

since the dust cover that AA sent me obviously was wrong ... it was rubbing the flywheel AGAIN. luckily i had just cut it so i could get it out without pulling the trans, pulled it and cut it up to be correct now. no possible chance to interfere with anything.

then yesterday had a minor mishap driving home. back when i built the cage i cut and welded the shifter a second time to move it. at the time decided in favor of time and effort that i'd throw out all good welding practices cuz "it's just a shifter"

well fukk ... stabbed the stub left on the trans with the stick to get 3rd gear, drove back to the closest welder. on the bight side though, this new 3rd shifter placement is by far the best!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-si-BAGc8kbM/WtCXGojTsOI/AAAAAAAAlZ8/zTg6VAU3OrcRgs6Pmj-Jd3xt3AuQlxk_ACJoC/w530-h398-n-rw/IMG_20180412_201154.jpg

[6DoF]

Last year i had a gear wine and the trans kept grinding more and shifting harder, this is mainly what led me to think i broke the trans. the FUBAR pilot bushing now replaced with the correct bearing has made the trans butter, but the gear wine was still there and maybe getting worse.

last night i changed the rear diff fluid, ended up pulling the 3rd cuz the fluid look bad. sure enough, found my noise! taking it to be rebuilt tonight at Appalachian off road.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bELeeaUW_Zg/WteKxibD2MI/AAAAAAAAlos/ojHmD3ct_-wUKotDfYILzVZPerOsMROlgCL0BGAs/w530-h707-n-rw/IMG_20180417_171726.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Dang. That sucks. What went wrong in the rear end? Just poor gear set up? Bearing prematurely worn out?

[6DoF]

not sure i can blame the set-up, they were smooth and quite to start. i got the gears like 50-70% off new from Randy's years ago, maybe they were race only or had a suspected issue batch. could have been i didn't break em in right, could have been i didn't change the fluid after break-in. is what it is.

AOR should hopefully have the new 5.13s in it here asap.

[6DoF]

Small update i guess, i did get the 5.13s in and can't really tell a differance over the 5.25s
as assumed, so no big deal. did go easy on them for a while, did change the fluid after 500 or so miles.

also, so i still had the same pads/rotors on the front axle as when i bought the jeep in 2010 since "i will just replace the whole axle real soon". when i got it back on the road with the FF 9" i just contributed the lame brakes to the old fronts. well, now that it'll be at least 2 years before i do the front axle with this house build i decided it was time to finally replace some parts. low and behold, didn't totally fix the issue. when i built the FF-9" axle i put on the sexy Wilwood dual piston D52 (old gm 1/2-ton) calipers but opted for the smaller piston "rear" version. well even with the adjustable proportioning valve all the way open, they were not enough force. so i just swapped back to stock d52 single piston and turned the prop valve all the way in again and they are just a tad much. i wish Wilwood made a D52 dual piston sized between the 2 current options ... oh well, better too much and know to be careful not to lock em then too little and no way to stop.

yes i still need big front brakes to balance it, but at least i now have the more correct rears.

[JEEPJERK]

TJ's truck has the fronts from a late 70's 1 ton on the back. It is way touchy....I have come in hot to an intersection and the light changes. No choice but to stand on 'em hard....once they lock, it's tough to get unlocked and back to a reasonable braking situation.
Everyone looks when you fly up to an intersection with the rears locked and the old MT/R's squealing like a mother. :roflmao:

[xj_man_646]

TJ's truck has the fronts from a late 70's 1 ton on the back. It is way touchy....I have come in hot to an intersection and the light changes. No choice but to stand on 'em hard....once they lock, it's tough to get unlocked and back to a reasonable braking situation.
Everyone looks when you fly up to an intersection with the rears locked and the old MT/R's squealing like a mother. :roflmao:

It might be worth checking into stepping down to a 1/2 ton sized caliper for the rear. On the newer (GMT800) trucks, the front calipers from a 1500 are used on the rear of the 2500 HD. Might as well swap in one of the hydro boost units while you're at it :pimp:

[6DoF]

yeah, i've locked up the back 2 different times on the street with this set up on the old axle ... once the lady didn't actually pull out, once the TJ ate a VW. i can still stop significantly shorter with lock-up then i could with too little pressure, this is why i wish i could get a middle ground caliper piston size. the difference is massive, 2.5x the area. and even though the stock single has more, the big dual is supposed to stop better still due to even pressure.

Total piston area:
Stock D52 ----- 6.78
front wilwood -- 6.28
Rear wilwood -- 2.46

part of me is thinking about taking apart these small wilwoods, having them machined bigger, and making a custom piston ... but that's not really priority.

EDIT:
Total piston area:
Cadillac ('76 -'78) Eldorado E-brake Calipers -- 4.55

EDIT V2:
Total piston area:
79-85 K20 JB7 front calipers -- 7.82 (metric banjo)

Edit again:
GM 1-ton caliper -- 8.90

[6DoF]

found that the Cadillac ('76 -'78) Eldorado E-brake Calipers might be the way to go ... but are $$$ at 3-4x the cost of standard d52's. you not only get the ebrake, but the piston area is 4.55. the perfect middle ground option!

[6DoF]

so this sh!t happened again ... the jeep is cursed!! this is a 1350 Spicer CV! WTF!?! i have been so much nicer to this shaft vs the old 1310, i don't get it. no clutch drops, no 1st gear launches, i only take off in 2nd (5.61:1 vs 3.04:1) and yet POP. there was no lead-up signals, just turned left from a stop sign and rolled into the throttle on 2nd gear, never even made it to WOT. left the shaft laying in the middle of the road.

i did clearance the crap out of the CV for more operation angle. there was no binding, the rust places are where i didn't repaint after grinding. it didn't fail anywhere near any place i had ground either. the 4-link is tight so i didn't get crazy pinion movement, and there was no tire spins so no wheel hop. the ONLY thing i can think is a spring clip left and a cap walked out.

:james:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yd3fr3M64Jk/W32Gze271vI/AAAAAAAAo3M/QNXViYQXxwkF67cFYIlCFLCoHzQMKy4QACJoC/w530-h707-n-rw/IMG_20180820_202852.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XN2xR-N0WhQ/W32G1eCfuYI/AAAAAAAAo3c/aFwRJf3N7487-O_joXYAVvS3OiaNKblRgCJoC/w530-h707-n-rw/IMG_20180820_200704.jpg

[thezentree]

I don't know if you're posting pictures, but I can't see any of them.

[6DoF]

I don't know if you're posting pictures, but I can't see any of them.

James couldn't, and now you ... they are hosted on G+ since FB turns off the URL after a short while and all the rest suck and are blocked on the work computer :bang:

[Cobound]

I can see them...maybe you need to be logged into G+ :dunno:

My FB pix always work, what is your experience w/ the URL turned off, never heard of that :squint:

[nblehm]

I see pics

[6DoF]

I can see them...maybe you need to be logged into G+ :dunno:

My FB pix always work, what is your experience w/ the URL turned off, never heard of that :squint:

can you still see pictures in the first few posts of this thread? i used to be able too ... how exactly do you post from FB then?

[6DoF]

talked to the driveline shop last night about the shaft ... guy straight up said "i've seen every failure and break possible, and i've never seen this" :james:

SO, i decided to get a whole new shaft and have him bandaid the old one to have a spare. he says he'll fix the old one for free since i'm buying new, these have always been great guys, win. and since the 1350 needs clearanced to work right, he's actually going to clearance it for me before high speed balancing! it's going to be sooooo much better. he said he might not get 100% of everything i need clearanced, but he said he would get the majority of the worthless metal out of there before balancing.

[Cobound]

can you still see pictures in the first few posts of this thread? i used to be able too ... how exactly do you post from FB then?

:yes:

[bbaCJ8]

talked to the driveline shop last night about the shaft ... guy straight up said "i've seen every failure and break possible, and i've never seen this" :james:

SO, i decided to get a whole new shaft and have him bandaid the old one to have a spare. he says he'll fix the old one for free since i'm buying new, these have always been great guys, win. and since the 1350 needs clearanced to work right, he's actually going to clearance it for me before high speed balancing! it's going to be sooooo much better. he said he might not get 100% of everything i need clearanced, but he said he would get the majority of the worthless metal out of there before balancing.
Sounds like a great shop!

Your theory about the cap backing out makes the most sense. The trunion looks fine and I would hope the casting on the double cardan wasn't junk. Probably too much damage on the parts to do any kind of decent failure analysis or look for porosity. Given your track record with caps coming out, that's probably the most likely scenario.

[6DoF]

got the shafts back last night and he did good. the part that broke is much beefier on the new shaft and he made good clearance on most of the contact points. one last small area that hits the body of the joint and we'll be good. it's a small enough change close enough to center that it shouldn't effect balance much either.

my goal for tonight is to clearance both shafts to match, then get the new one in the jeep. this weekend i want to have all the factory jeep/gm AC parts installed and all the custom bits ordered.

[6DoF]

My birthday present from my parents came in, they got me the radio i wanted to upgrade too. i took the GenRight idea of the RZR radio in a jeep and did my own thing. so i got a marine radio, and just out of the box it looks 1000x better quality then any car audio i've seen. super excited to get it installed. it even came with a fit rubber cover for the remote head if it is to be installed on an outside boat helm, should also protect from mud :lol:

https://www.fusionentertainment.com/marine/products/stereo-units/ms-bb300r

https://assets.fusionentertainment.com/products/images/_cppThumb/FUSION_MS-BB300R_NRX300.jpg?mtime=20171123083746

https://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-cn6mxlx/products/965/images/1361/ssvmrb3-installed-1200__33540.1468871257.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

[Cobound]

Interesting.

[6DoF]

in order to finish installing all the factory GM/Jeep AC bits, i had to pull the lower rad hose ... well now that it's off i'm going to replace it and the heater hoses with stuff that sux less. once all that is back together i can then order the custom AC bits and start getting this radio in.

so by x-mas

[nblehm]

I want to put ac in my truck now with the lq4. I have a under the dash unit, but also might look at vintage air. Factory parts would be cheaper though

[6DoF]

since the jeep already had hvac with the evap in the dash, i just needed to get it hooked up under the hood.

so here's what i'm doing. i called Cold Hose (https://coldhose.com/) and talked to them. the woman who answered the phone like a secretary really knew her sh!t and helped me sort it out. i am using the stock condenser, a 97-98 accumulator (has different connections that are easier/cheaper to adapt to than 99+), stock orifice tube, the stock GM truck compressor on the LQ4 (down low, i cut the pass upper control arm mount off the axle for a stock 3-link), and the rest will be custom. coldhose has the hose ends and hose i need, along with the pressure switches.

bought the AC hose crimping tool since i'll need to do the '55 as well at least, and i plan to buy a full charge kit with vac pump.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9GS0QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71fPetgDqnL._SL1500_.jpg

and while this isn't quite scientific, it gets the basic idea across for wiring
http://cyoum84abk-flywheel.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/non-compterized.jpg

[Sir Sam]

since the jeep already had hvac with the evap in the dash, i just needed to get it hooked up under the hood.

so here's what i'm doing. i called Cold Hose (https://coldhose.com/) and talked to them. the woman who answered the phone like a secretary really knew her sh!t and helped me sort it out. i am using the stock condenser, a 97-98 accumulator (has different connections that are easier/cheaper to adapt to than 99+), stock orifice tube, the stock GM truck compressor on the LQ4 (down low, i cut the pass upper control arm mount off the axle for a stock 3-link), and the rest will be custom. coldhose has the hose ends and hose i need, along with the pressure switches.

bought the AC hose crimping tool since i'll need to do the '55 as well at least, and i plan to buy a full charge kit with vac pump.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9GS0QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71fPetgDqnL._SL1500_.jpg

and while this isn't quite scientific, it gets the basic idea across for wiring
http://cyoum84abk-flywheel.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/non-compterized.jpg

I used coldhose for my parts as well, carquest also carries some AC type parts if you are in a bind and need a local source for some.

My hose crimper is a little different, its not hydraulic, and it works well for these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WBQ4U2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[6DoF]

So i got the new radio mounted and its better than expected! The sound is amazing, noticably better with no other changes. With the spare space i plan to mount the 2 seat heater switches, and a digital air pressur gauge.

Had to trim a little inside the dash, but nothing it'll miss. The sub amp was already in place of the air bag.

https://i.imgur.com/wxA2lPp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xQQ0MGG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/99LJBhs.jpg

[jeepkid05]

I dig the Dewalt shift knob. Nice touch. Do you still have a hook up there? :brows:

[6DoF]

I dig the Dewalt shift knob. Nice touch. Do you still have a hook up there? :brows:

i get more comments about my knob :lol:

i kinda do, kinda

[6DoF]

Melinda, my wife, just described sitting on the sub woofer under the passenger seat of the TJ as feeling like "you have that explosive diarrhea right there"

:lol: :lol:

[6DoF]

Update 1: This radio sounds amazing, and generally the idea is great. The execution however BLOWS and it's going in the trash where it belongs. Maybe into the ski boat where I don't need to user it as much.

Update 2: I got the rear air bumps on! It's TIGHT in there, but all fits. Time for a test drive.

https://i.imgur.com/T3mjYjl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xXc25P7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/By0JtNQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XpJlRh8.jpg

[nblehm]

Now need jump videos.

[6DoF]

Now need jump videos.

To bad the entire front end is still "stock" :james:

It's coming, one day ... I will drive off a loading dock at speed :roflmao:

[6DoF]

the crap radio is finally out! thing was soooo bad, the company was soooo bad ... so i followed Sam with the Android radio. so far i love it, i serve a hotspot from my phone. but depending on how it starts, sometimes the audio is mute until you close everything and re-start the music app.

i had been fighting some thermal issues and have been changing things up and adding things. turns out the winch creates a HUGE low pressure at the radiator on the highway. so that sucks and i need to french it down into the frame. however i've done a lot to help with reducing air recirculation, add an oil cooler, hood louvers, etc. sorry for the crappy oil cooler pic, i used the factory hard lines up to the front of the motor, cut them off for compression fittings, and screwed a 12" can style cooler under the radiator.

i also then built a new CAI and it's proven amazing. engine temps are down again just from it, throttle response is up, it even winds out at the top end better. this also means i was able to use more fuel on the highway and my MPG went down :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/8gIkypw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Kt2o49X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4ER3Cd1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6MT6tz2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/m3DKNlj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NGKNUIh.jpg

[6DoF]

small update i guess, junk i've been working on this season.

new thermostat and water pump. seams like the water pump might have made a big difference in cooling, no clue what could have been wrong with the other. don't ever buy a motorad thermostat cuz this 180 is actually a 195, same as the reviews.

wouldn't ever buy an android based radio again, the next will be a wireless android auto with a general interface. thinking Kenwood for the XJ.

waxed a 2nd set of 5.13's in the rear axle ... 2 different installers and i trust both, very deliberate break-in this last time. general consensus is either that the supertech 80/90 isn't up to the task of 80mph with that pinion speed, or the case is somehow machined off a bit. i set up a used set of 3.55's and could see the old really good contact, there was NO way i could get anywhere near it in my case so i'm leaning to weird case machining. these really make a lot of noise after a LOT of set-up work.

switching back to 3.55's is WAY better than the 5.13s (on the street)!! with the 3.55's i drive it like a 4spd with a useless OD, with the 5.13s i drive it like a 4spd with a useless crawler gear. but worst case if i throw a 4:1 in the d300 my crawl still works out fine. with 5.13s in actual 1st you redline before even getting past the start line, it's USELESS short on the street.

using the low first as 1st:
3.55 * 5.61 = 19.9 ... 19.9 * 4 = 79.6
3.55 * 3.04 = 10.8

using 2nd as first:
5.13 * 5.61 = 28.8 ... 28.8 * 2.62 = 75.5
5.13 * 3.04 = 15.6
5.13 * 1.67 = 8.6

so really the 3.55s give me 27.5% more torque to ground off a stop sign, and 25.5% more torque in "2nd". way way better.

i'm trying to get a stock 3.55 3rd and swap in a 35sp spool to have a spare 3rd and use in the mean time. then i can wait til spring to order a new big bearing 3rd with the posi.

[nblehm]

You still have this thing? Day dreaming a ls TJ for my daughters first car and made me think of this jeep.

[6DoF]

**** yeah! drove it to work this morning, I freaking love this jeep! :rock:

post-winter she needed the battery charged but fired right up. the spare factory 3rd i set up last year with the spool and 3.55's was getting on my nerves, so i set up the old yukon/LSD with another used set of 3.55's. these set up much better and are nice and quiet. this time i have good oil in the diff, we'll see how long they last.

she'd be the most bad-ass chick in town driving an LS TJ for a first car ... maybe start with a 4cyl TJ, then after a few years hook it up with the LS?

[nblehm]

:rock:

Yeah probably not the best idea to stick a teenager in a 3-400 hp swb jeep :lol:

[Cobound]

Nate :lol:

[6DoF]

JAMES!

so here is what i am working on. this jeep really is more of a street rod, i really didn't want the weight of a 1-ton axle up front. the spider9 housing might be lighter than a d60 housing, but are still REALLY heavy vs a stock 9" housing or even vs a d44. i built a junkyard 944 with a stock stamped housing and machined stock knuckles recently that made a shockingly light housing. plus the fab'd 9er housings are all like $1000+ now, not the $350 they used to be. got me thinking, can i just build a light weight version and for way cheaper?

so the housing is built to "stock+" strength, while still looking sexy, easier to fab on mounts, and generally being a fun project.

i found the 3rd for download and built off it. i designed a few check gauge plates to verify bend angles, and should only need the jig rod i use for welding on axle ends to fixture it all.

https://i.imgur.com/KnwtwuH.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/BAw8VHF.jpeg

then a completely different direction ... one of the guys said "what if we used the entire tube with welded spindle from a 14b" basically just cut off the cast housing and weld em into my center housing. so i designed a center with heavier plate, wider in case the tubes aren't long enough (investigating), and for the bigger 3.5" tube dia.

i built the model as a top-down, so a few changes and all the parts updated around it. i love it when a plan comes together!

https://i.imgur.com/U8oVaVh.jpeg

[xj_man_646]

That is pretty awesome. How much CAD do you do in your day to day job? I forgot 44's came in 8 lug too so 9/44 for this application probably makes sense.

[wrath]

What about modernish Dodge D60 tubes/outers? I see them all the time and keep telling myself I'm going to pick one up but never do.

[6DoF]

That is pretty awesome. How much CAD do you do in your day to day job? I forgot 44's came in 8 lug too so 9/44 for this application probably makes sense.

daily, no ... but multiple times a week for sure. we do a lot of fixtures, custom enclosures, assembly aids, etc for the floor. our 2 PRUSA prints run basically non-stop in 'The Cave' (the windowless Mfg Eng office for 5 of us and the boss)

[6DoF]

What about modernish Dodge D60 tubes/outers? I see them all the time and keep telling myself I'm going to pick one up but never do.

i should be able to adjust it for anything at this point. HD vs lighter, tube dia, width, etc.

it was only $2xx for SendCutSend to cut n ship all the plate including the bend gauges. i'm hoping a local buddy will do it for way less.