Got another one! Project: PolarXJ

[6DoF]

Well, it took me a long time but i finally got my 2dr XJ! i've wanted a 2dr and have been half-a$sed looking for the right deal for 15 years, and this one even took me 2 years to get after making a deal on it. but here she is.

my buddy got it from a cop down the road from him who bought it new. no kids, always had the rear seat folded down. then my buddies dad was driving it and she over heated to the moon. at minimum the head gasket was torched. so i finally got my hands on it, and here we go!

https://i.imgur.com/sLq8G5p.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/C0xUhRF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/F7HLJUK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/91kYV0j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PccITa8.jpg

[6DoF]

so last night i pulled her in to start work. i was being optimistic and had a new head gasket waiting. well she wasn't exactly flat when she came off, did a little more research, then went and started cleaning to look for cracks. not 30seconds in and after cleaning you can see the crack weeping oil. FAIL.

all the cylinders look perfect, no lip at the top, and the block is nice n flat still. so i'll either pick up a new head if i can get it quickly, or a used one from a local-ish guy. really hope to be driving this soon!

https://i.imgur.com/UNwDz37.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GHO9u8B.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rYpfi9s.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HQvXc1Q.jpg

[MBood82]

Minty clean!

[jeepkid05]

Awesome. Looks clean. I miss every xj I owned.

[Dennis]

Looks awesome. Sucks about the heads, but should not be tough to find a decent replacement quick. What year?

[6DoF]

Looks awesome. Sucks about the heads, but should not be tough to find a decent replacement quick. What year?

2000 ... and i've never actually looked at how many miles :lol:

i am picking up a used TUPY head tonight for $50 that might need some clean-up from sitting. but i have everything to wet sand the deck if needed, and everything to lap the valves back in. toss my springs and rockers on there if these are dry and make it run.

[Hoofmann]

Any plans for this thing or just make it run and enjoy?

[Cobound]

Wow, super clean...super duper! Nice, congrats!!

Get a set of wheels on that puppy and she'll be a killer daily! I still have a huge soft spot for them...my daughter still drives one, and I'd grab another in a heartbeat for the right price and condition.

Enjoy!

[xj_man_646]

Love it. I would love to find an XJ again.

[Baby peez]

might as well do the heat soak fix while you have it apart if it hasn't already been done yet

super clean

[6DoF]

Any plans for this thing or just make it run and enjoy?

the plan is to drive it and enjoy it, she's my new winter ride. however, i tend to enjoy things that aren't stock :lol: nothing extra gets done until she proves to be a runner, and i've found/fixed all the other aging issues. we'll see, but i can't help from looking at parts!

needs:
-headliner pulled and re-glued
-door ding guards were pulled and the glue needs removed
-i'm sure there's more

will get:
-wireless android auto double din head unit
-big boy seat bracket mods (no way i'm buying the $$ brackets though)

Probable mods:
-3" lift
-simple black AL wheels and a 32" AT
-seat heaters
-new speakers

would like:
-JCR non-winch front bumper
-JCR non-swingout rear bumper

[6DoF]

might as well do the heat soak fix while you have it apart if it hasn't already been done yet

super clean

i did make sure to save the insulation when i pulled it apart

[Cobound]

Seriously, hit up Sam with any XJ questions, or needs - he’s the XJ Whisperer :lol:

Looking forward to watching this one!

[freerider15]

2000 ... and i've never actually looked at how many miles :lol:

i am picking up a used TUPY head tonight for $50 that might need some clean-up from sitting. but i have everything to wet sand the deck if needed, and everything to lap the valves back in. toss my springs and rockers on there if these are dry and make it run.

Just got done the other week putting a TUPY head on a flip Jeep.

Went ahead and pressure washed it (looks mighty clean), new head plug, valve seals, and lapped the valve seats. Not near as bad as I thought it might be (had never done anything but the plug before).

Looks like a nice clean ride...though not sure I'd buy another XJ these days still :lol:

[6DoF]

i started thinking last night that i think i have 4.0 valve seals left over somewhere in my parts stash from prior work ... i really need to see if i do tonight.

worked for a few hours last night on this little dude. GIBBS and a red scotchbright, brass wire brush in a drill, and 600grit wet sanding with wd-40 and a nice heavy flat steel block. stopped last night with 8 valves left to lap before she's ready.

https://i.imgur.com/MMRD75V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bnHg3pr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/a2ashQC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/btQLq3c.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e8qtPMH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jl2tzie.jpg

[nblehm]

I need to pull the head on the xj I have sitting at my work. Swapped short blocks because the one I got it with broke a rod and dropped a piston into the pan. Gambled and just reused the head and have a bad intake valve seat. Need to disassemble and figure out what I want to do. Only confirmed it with a vacuum waveform on my scope so far. The more I look at the jeep the more it needs so I am now dragging my feet, even though it takes me all of 30 mins to pull a head :james:

[6DoF]

I need to pull the head on the xj I have sitting at my work. Swapped short blocks because the one I got it with broke a rod and dropped a piston into the pan. Gambled and just reused the head and have a bad intake valve seat. Need to disassemble and figure out what I want to do. Only confirmed it with a vacuum waveform on my scope so far. The more I look at the jeep the more it needs so I am now dragging my feet, even though it takes me all of 30 mins to pull a head :james:

sounds like a basket case ... i'll give ya $20 + shipping

[xj_man_646]

$25!

[6DoF]

:lol: :f2:

[nblehm]

I got it for free so :f2:

[6DoF]

head on! had to pull an intake off my shelf as there was a chunk missing from the one on the jeep ... wtf? whatever, had the parts.

she runs!! ... i mean, she ran ... fired up pretty decent, everything sounds smooth, but idled at 2000Rs. cleaned TB, sealed to intake better, swapped IAC with a used one from the shelf ... same, didn't seam to be adjusting it, then it kinda was and idled lower. fired up next day to flush the coolant and drove it out of the garage. after the flush she wouldn't start to save her life. pulled the codes and had a P0122 and P0123, throttle position sensor High and TPS low. swap the TPS with used from shelf, same, unplugged, same. cranks n cranks and FINALLY runs but idles rough, pulled back into the garage. next day after everything is dry and she spins but no hint of fire. still has the TPS low code.

jeep sat for 2 years not running after the head cracked n overheated bad. there also seams to be at least one stuck ring, so hopefully that works itself out too.

need to probe the TPS wires and sensor sweep ... anyone got any other ideas for me to look at? i really hope i'm not chasing some randomly chewed mouse wire :james:

[Sir Sam]

I got it for free so :f2:

I will give you $30 and pick it up.

[Sir Sam]

Have fuel pressure?

[6DoF]

I have 44psi fuel pressure quickly, and it holds there even off just fine.

Back probed the TPS, that all seams to be perfectly in spec and functional.

Unplugged n re-seated the computer plugs, blew em out, now i also get another code for high tach signal. But the high tps code is gone, still have the low tps code.

Pulled the coil pack n jumpered ground to the plugs, they all have spark.

Tried to do a compression test, but i need a long thread adapter ... With the o-ring off i can only get one thread to take. Still tried it n got like 30-50psi. So that worries me. I did have a tiny bit of puffing smoke last it ran after the new head from the oil cap, but just a wiff n nit enough to really even feel. Poured oil in the cylinders n rocked the crank a bunch, they are all holding the oil well n not draining down quick ... We'll see in the am.

[6DoF]

Oh yeah ... Also now realized there is coolant leaking out rather quickly between the block n bell. Probably why it Lost coolant n overheated to start with

[Sir Sam]

Oh yeah ... Also now realized there is coolant leaking out rather quickly between the block n bell. Probably why it Lost coolant n overheated to start with

That sucks, there is a freeze plug back there that you have to pull the trans to replace.

[xj_man_646]

Was going to say the same thing :thumbsup:

[6DoF]

not the worst job ever ... but not the best for sure ...

[6DoF]

damnit! i wanna get back to the '55 ... i'm debating shoving this XJ outside for a while n get back to it when i can bring it into the shop next to the 55. you know, once the body n 12v are final bolted to the chassis.

[Cobound]

'55 vote here :rock:

[6DoF]

shoved it out and actually brought my GMC in :james:

wife might have convinced me to get the XJ back inside though and get it on the road for winter like i wanted. knock more off the to-do list first.

[Cobound]

Yeah, maybe you can get the realistic one done first, then move on to the long term. Dammit, wives are so damn practical :lol:

[6DoF]

well ... buying another XJ tonight. this **** is a slippery slope!!

2000 rusted to **** beater with a blown 4.0 ... it's a 5spd, says new clutch, has a puck/shackle lift, front rock bumper, and decent wheels i could use. $675

now to make sure i get everything i need for a manual swap before scrapping the shell ASAP

[Cobound]

:lol:

Oh, slippery slope...just ask Sam :p

I went down that route as well, quickly got out of it, my HOA does not approve :james:

Nor does my wife, or my free time calendar :roflmao:

[6DoF]

****ing FB went down and took messenger with it ... i have his address, but we never set up a time! he's 2h away, do i just get the trailer n roll hoping he's there when i show up?

[Cobound]

DAYUM!!!!

FB struck a hard chord!!!

So, what did you do?

[6DoF]

no way i was doing a 4h drive without knowing he'd be there ... FaceCrack came back after dinner and we hashed it out, going up tonight from work. since i had the extra day i was able to load up n bring the trailer to work to save an hour this afternoon too.

[Cobound]

Nice, good plan, man!

[6DoF]

got it! this thing is suuuuuccchhhh a pile of sh!t!! everything sux but the few parts i need, so game on though. even had all new sensors to try and make mine run again!

so the "motor blew up" was him windowing the block with the #1 and #6 rods

https://i.imgur.com/xiok40Z.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/VMNnlSI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L7RyJAf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qyszAOB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zb2ufF1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/THKixNx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3m3fFAz.jpg

[Cobound]

Sticker give you that idea? :lol:

[6DoF]

well i got the b!tch stripped! what an absolute epic pile of crap it was ... except the stuff i needed! hopefully scrap is up, and i can sell the axles wheels/tires for something and really make this a cost effective deal.

trans feels nice n smooth, and the dude wasn't lying about the brand new clutch/slave. t-case feels smooth, pedals assy is in great shape, hydro's were like new, this should be great. still need to try swapping some more parts on to figure out what's causing my running issue though first ...

https://i.imgur.com/U9C26UO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8Ls7bOo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EypsNds.jpg

[6DoF]

well ... fukkall is making a difference.

swapped from the running donor jeep:
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
coil pack
computer

fuel psi is quick and stable, can hear the pump, pretty sure i can smell fuel after it cranks a bit.

spark was there at every plug when i turned the pack up, shoved in a plug and grounded em.

at this point the entire 5spd kit has been loaded into the back and she'll sit til i have enough room in the shop to pull it in next to the 55 for work.

[jeepkid05]

Matt. I just tried to send you a PM. But PMs suck.

I’ll post it here.

Hey Matt. I know you used to work for Dewalt and are definitely more versed than me. I’m looking for a 1/2 impact. Mainly for whizzing off lugnuts etc. what would you recommend. My friend works there and is gonna bring home some deals for thanksgiving.

Lemme know what you think.

[6DoF]

we used to have a DeWALT thread ... or maybe it was just a tool thread? "old" forum maybe? worth re-starting if you don't find one.

the newest compact 1/2" cordless impacts are getting right to the point they are good enough for lugs, but are still just not quite beef enough for me as a 1/2" gun. if you'd rather compact over all the ugga-dugga, they'd be a good choice. this holds for any major brand really. the digital simulation has come a LONG way in the last few years, so every generation is like 30% smaller and 30% more torque, it's nutty.

[6DoF]

pulled the XJ back in to mess with recently ... a few evening of testing EVERYTHING and still wouldn't run. finally bought the compression tester adapter i needed while i was eliminating all possible knowns as issues. because how could every cylinder be so low that there's no fire. i mean, it ran!

aaaannnndddd fubar

#1 - 20
#2 - 25
#3 - 15
#4 - 30
#5 - 40
#6 - 20

so i thought, fine, i'll just re-ring it and drive it for a bit ... just make it run. well Dietz came over n helped wrench. i pulled the aw4 n broke the shifter rod in the process trying to remove the nut, fine whatever it's scrap. pulled the 4.0 pan and there is over an inch of sludge in the pan!!!! start pulling the pistons, got one rod stuck on the cylinder wall n chipped the piston skirt. bearings are all 60%+ copper. then trying to dig out the stuck BS rings i fudge up the ring land on one.

fawk it, this XJ obviously doesn't wanna run ever again on a 4.0 ... so it's getting a TDI.

yes, that is coolant pissing from a freeze plug ...

https://i.imgur.com/7AwITJe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1s8bNGA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XojknSx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QEDzHE2.jpg

[6DoF]

got a buddy with a 1.9 ALH he'll sell me for a reasonable price so that helps. found an MTDI pump to swap for the electronic pump to get mechanical injection cheaper than i thought too. more power potential, and only slight more than a basic ECU tune. after some hoses n fidly bits i suspect the whole swap would be in the $3500 range. after a lift n shocks n ball joints, i should be into a 2dr, TDI, 5spd, lifted XJ for reasonable money

[nblehm]

I wish I had your motivation :lol:

[6DoF]

I always expect to see a bunch of MSA stuff in the background, like Sordins stacked up like cordwood. But it's still DeWalt yeller everywhere.

yeah ... the employee discount isn't good enough to be worth buying anything like that. i've actually found them cheaper online before. really the only thing i've picked up was a Packers hard hat cuz the steelers ones are watched too closely.

[6DoF]

https://i.imgflip.com/1feayq.jpg

so it's officially back in the shop, and it's officially 1.9 TDI time! more specifically, MTDI time! i'm working thru prepping the jeep while figuring out all the parts i need and getting them ordered. a buddy is coming up on the weekend of the 15th to play and hopefully get it running/driving that weekend.

fuel tank is out, cleaned out, and return line figured. i have ordered everything needed for the fuel system including a new fuel sock, fuel filter, and tank filler lines. the factory jeep tank/pump will run diesel up to a dead-headed PSI reg and then into the injection pump.

i even get to use the stock ASD, starter, and all the gauges pretty easy. obviously fuel, volt, and speed are all stock still. oil psi and coolant just requires getting the jeep senders into the TDI. the tach runs off the CPS, and i'm using the stock trans/flywheel so that's a bolt in, but the ECU needs a single cam position sensor pulse to wake it all up. some guys wire it to a button, some piggy back the CPS, others install a relay that closes with the starter relay to short the cam wires and send a single pulse. the last one is my plan.

ordered a 3-in-1 gauge like i put in Hank for EGT, boost, and fuel PSI

got the center console ripped out, shifter is gone, but the stupid floor plate is stuck because the t-case shifter bracket screws have all spun the nut-cerst. freaking lame, but easy enough.

bought the trans adapter from Whitbread performance, and conversion engine mounts from TDI Conversions. got the MTDI pump and bigger injectors from Hans auto parts. biggest injectors i could, so that was stupid. also got the 12mm injection pump, also too much fuel ... so it's probably going to suck to tune without it smoking.

https://i.imgur.com/cFWNYOd.jpg

[xj_man_646]

This should be pretty cool!

[6DoF]

This should be pretty cool!

https://media2.giphy.com/media/xUOwGkoxib4Y9A9T9u/giphy.gif?cid=790b76114c6abfe19cef19daaef1d5304eaf d9735d23cde1&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g

[6DoF]

last night i found a pair of 2" lift pucks in case i need more clearance for something in the front end. some guys say you do. i think i might have "acquired" these from Christian's XJ at 611 :lol:

the rear springs are SOOO shot though, i really hope i don't need to lift it right now.

[xj_man_646]

What would you need more clearance for, in going from a 4.0 I6 to an I4 TDI?

[6DoF]

What would you need more clearance for, in going from a 4.0 I6 to an I4 TDI?

i've read things about UCA mount clearance to things, or balancer to housing. not totally sure, but we are going to find out. seams like a pretty easy fit to me.

[MBood82]

Nice seeing this hitting the shop!

[6DoF]

fawk ... you think the wife will believe it was Mitosis tonight when she find a 2nd ALH in the shop?

[Cobound]

:rock:

[6DoF]

engine teardown and inspection going well, looks like i'll need to run the turbo from engine 1 though. learned a lot of little thing tearing this down that were good, like the back of the head has a steam port i hadn't noticed before! measured some things, decided some things will just get cut up.

whoever thought it was a good idea to put an EGR on a diesel was a complete and utter jack-a$s. even the stock engine had some soot, combined with the oil from the crank vent and it makes a sludge on EVERYTHING.

https://i.imgur.com/dYBqLPv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BzjgCz7.jpg

[xj_man_646]

whoever thought it was a good idea to put an EGR on a diesel was a complete and utter jack-a$s. even the stock engine had some soot, combined with the oil from the crank vent and it makes a sludge on EVERYTHING.

You can thank CARB and the .gov for that. You're lucky the intake wasn't completely plugged requiring a torch to clean out.

[nblehm]

Yeah those things carbon up bad. Glad there aren’t very many of them.

[6DoF]

finally found a proper set-up for manual, mechanical VNT control. boost rise rate, a max set point for on the throttle, and a separate max boost for no/low throttle giving better efficiency while cruising. instead of the electric version below, i have a pneumatic limit switch that i'll place on the throttle linkage.

https://chiptuning.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Two-Stage-Boost-Control.jpg

[6DoF]

so the more i research, the more i like compounds and wastegates vs the whole variable geometry stuff. slightly more money, but should be the most capable.


i never realized the grill of an XJ comes off that easy! 8 easy access bolts and one giant plug ... done, off. i basically tore the whole thing apart before i figured it out. the easiest way to access the coolant drain is to just remove the grill like it was some under-tray at an oil change. i love this little thing even more now.

got all kinds of parts sitting here waiting for their moment now. i pulled the radiator to start fitting in the intercooler. the interwebs says i need to move the rad back about 1", so we'll see what shakes out. should be easy enough with the mounts it uses and the way shorter engine.

slowly combining parts from both engines into one functional mess. i'm pretty sure i have at least one of everything that's good!

major work update would be the fuel tank ready to back in. all cleaned up, new sock, new filter/reg, and i added a return line from the injection pump to the jeep sending unit. it's a 90deg bulkhead barb'd on both ends from amazon, was perfect. the washers and threads for the bulkhead are sealed with PTFE sealer, then i smeared on the blue RTV as an additive topcoat just because extra. i learned on the TJ that the return HAS to go back into the can if you don't want fuel starvation issues from slosh at 1/4 tank or less. this should do quite nicely.

i just want to wire brush and ChassisSaver any spots of surface rust now while the tank is out.

https://i.imgur.com/W9bHwnR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UNYoCFt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bb9FpeP.jpg

[Cobound]

Sam could tell you a thing or two about tearing apart XJs :lol:

[6DoF]

Sam could tell you a thing or two about tearing apart XJs :lol:

oh i've called him before on questions, even on this one in the early stages.

[Cobound]

Ha, ditto!!

[6DoF]

A few days ago i got the whole area above the fuel tank cleaned n coated with chassis saver n rattle can. Tonight i knocked out a ton of stuff.

- fuel tank installed
- drilled out the fuel filler flap for diesel pump
- injection pump return line run
- auto pedal out, clutch pedal in!
- clutch master holes drilled
- clutch hydros installed
- tcase shifter removed
- tunnel cleaned n auto cover removed

I also had a little sensor adapter made and it's awesome! The VW has an o-ring fit coolant sensor with a clip, while the jeep sensor i need uses an NPT. Adapter n bam.

https://i.imgur.com/njyBmhR.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/D7Eve6g.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/W8Nt0pl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/HECvk2r.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/iwXP4Aw.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/sEKw78h.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/XRiHFem.jpeg

[6DoF]

been a little while since i got to make a mess with the grinders actually, this was a good weekend!

started off by getting the bolt-in motor mount support brackets removed to make room for the new TDI ones. realized that the drivers bracket was also some support bracing for the track bar bracket ... wanna keep that. chopped up the bracket to it's most basic support for that and got it in paint. this now bolts in completely separate of the new engine mounts.

then moved on to getting the intercooler mounted. picked this dual pass on amazon before realizing it's actually the most common XJ intercooler used, but requires moving the radiator back. easy enough with this crazy short motor, it's only body to worry about. the lower mounts are a basic tab to move the rubber grommet back 1.25", then the upper mounts i moved 5/8" in the mount at the rad, and another 5/8" in the mount at the core support. i wanted to be able to get a new radiator easy later. had to clearance some of the surrounding sheet metal, but it was all non-structural gap close-out sheet anyways. the intercooler mount is 5/8" power steering hose over the post mount, slid into a steel tube. rubber mounted ftw, so the upper is the same 5/8" hose up to the core support and just a bolt clamping it down.

https://i.imgur.com/Q6FiFBA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KHgYFTS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lr2fuvs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Kv5eiJe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AAM5NLH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zP56cVm.jpg

[6DoF]

got the track bar brace re-installed, got everything painted, and even enlarged one of the holes in the cross structure to run the intercooler piping thru.

i think the jeep is ready, need to turn focus to the TDI now and get the pump installed and timing figured out. also need to clean out an intake and the head ports, then modify the intake. need to swap the turbo, new t-stat, and a few 0-rings before i start getting the trans on/in.

since i pulled the front pumper ... i'm really thinking i should just buy a decent non-winch rock bumper.

https://i.imgur.com/vwAMdFr.jpg

[6DoF]

got the engine i'm using more cleaned up last night and some paint on this side before the intake and turbo go on. valve cover cleaned up better than i expected.

decided to try and modify the intake for the new 2" boost tubes. i was going to have to buy or make a flange adapter, but realized if i just cut the flange and a tie brace off it's the same thing! pic of my spare engine for stock intake reference. i also cut down a mounting block cast into it, then drilled and tapped it for a boost sensor and a boost reference line to the pump and wastegate controller.

https://i.imgur.com/M6Gp0dy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lAxqyD7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OdRP9lh.jpg

[6DoF]

busted out lots of little things last night, just kept working even after the wife went to bed.

got the intake and turbo installed, just not the oil feed line yet waiting on a cooling line oring. but that oring bore is all cleaned up nice. got the trans adapter installed and the complete jeep clutch, fit perfect! starter with infinite clocking was cool, got it assembled and placed. new water pump, all new idlers, t-stat and oring, even got the crank cog swapped over from the other engine.

while getting the MTDI pump on, what a pain that was though. the bottom bolt is virtually impossible to get to, took all my fingering skills. also had to cut out some clearance in the pump bracket, but she's installed! i didn't realize the timing for a VE style pump involved a dial indicator, so that'll be a thing to learn the technique on now too. i didn't buy "the tool" cuz all the reviews were horrible.

installed the valve cover cuz i can see the timing marks with the vac pump removed, but need to get back in it to TDC the crank. VW puts the marks on the flywheel and bellhousing, so i don't have any. best method i've come across is sticking a wooden or plastic shim in under the cam to extend a valve, and rotate the crank til it hits and stops. place a mark on the new flywheel, then turn it back around the other direction til it stops again. make a new mark, and you can then count teeth between and get a real TDC.

https://i.imgur.com/clowJPN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N6mw6Bu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ImuVwwu.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Making pretty good progress!

[6DoF]

i want the engine bolted in the jeep this weekend ... running if possible.

[Cobound]

You'll be rolling coal in no time :rock:

[6DoF]

It's in! kinda. ended up at the range for a while Saturday, then a car cruise with Hank, and excuses #3.

so after quite a bit of moving and thinking and rearranging and thinking and staring at it, i found where it'll live for good. i was actually able to get the transmission back onto the factory mount in the factory location! i could get the engine about 1" higher if i drop the trans mount by an inch, but meh. the last picture is actually hood clearance before i moved it down an inch to get the bell housing off the tunnel. this way any XJ kit or parts bolt in no question.

so the trans mount is in/done, and i have the engine mount kit with the block and frame side plates done, just need to fit and weld in the rest. fuel lines are right there and i need to get it started and make sure i don't have to screw with anything while it's back out for mount welding/paint.

https://i.imgur.com/dEMs5Md.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MUGyCiu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o7enEPw.jpg

[6DoF]

mounts are tach welded, she's holding her all the weight!

i was a little unsure of the universal mount kit i got for the XJ and TDI, but they worked out really good actually. only a few little trims to fit where i was putting it and weld it in. they are nice and solid too. goal for tonight is to get them out, fully welded, and in paint so that tomorrow i can bolt the engine in for good.

while it's out, i also need to make some plates for the exhaust flange and EGR block-off.

once weight went back down on the springs, it did compress more than i was hoping it would have. given the shocks are kinda junk, but i can bounce the front by hand and get the oil pan to touch the axle housing. now i need some pretty substantial bump stops, and a lift to keep some up travel. i'm debating how to do this ... cheap with pucks and who cares, or spend the money for some dual rate coils to stiffen up the ride compression and just work better over-all.

https://i.imgur.com/wqkk8NO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ckbct58.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/i749fQY.jpg

[6DoF]

uuuugghhhh ... i really didn't want to redo this whole thing right now ... ordered a complete lift with dual rate coils, and all new CAs ...

[xj_man_646]

Well, that escalated quickly!

I am surprised that there are the clearance issues given that they came with the 4.0L.

[6DoF]

Well, that escalated quickly!

I am surprised that there are the clearance issues given that they came with the 4.0L.

with the overhead cam, that adds some height over the stroke length ... but the big issue is the oil pan depth. the oil pump is in the front of the engine and hangs below the crank. pan could be like 4" higher over the axle with a rear pump.

[6DoF]

big weekend for the little XJ! starting with me playing hooky on Friday and spending the day working on it.

i runs! and works on the key!

fuel lines built, fuel PSI regulator installed ... but it's REALLY not the right unit for this. pressure pulses back from the injection pump when shutting down leave it at like 50psi in the line/IP and over 20 can blow out the front seal dumping fuel down the timing. even no lift pump, just drawing fuel, it'll shut down with 20+ psi in the line. i had to buy a regulator with return line. will be here tomorrow.

cut out a turbo down pipe flange and an EGR delete cover. made a coolant hard line that runs up along the intake to make a fwd connection vs the one at the back of the head. i was annoyed that the throttle cable coming out of the firewall was like in the way of where i needed to bracket the cable to the pump, so i looped the cable and zip-tied it to itself. the firewall is now the hold point and it's perfect.

messing with electrical some, jumped the NSS for now but will most likely put that on a hidden switch. found a nice key'd power source under the hood in a connector i'm not using. the computer must be missing grounds cuz it doesn't want to do anything yet though. starter wire works though! got the 3-in-1 EGT/boost/fuel psi gauge placed and wired on the dash.

also got the B&M cable t-case shifter installed, the NP231 installed, rear drive shaft is in. clutch slave hooked up and clutch confirmed functional. fixed the brake lights staying on issue. drivers seat re-installed.

egt probe was actually kinda interesting to install. i forgot to drill/tap the manifold while it was out, so i put it in the EGR blockoff plate instead. it came with a 90deg bend outside the compression fitting that holds it to the manifold ... had to bend the stright, slide it up, then re-arc the probe to get deeper into the manifold. worked out pretty well thought i think.

so the very first fire up i had the new gauge facing out the windshield so i could check running fuel pressure. bleeding injectors ... crank ... bleed ... crank ... more cranking with smoke ... finally gave it throttle and it hit a few times. YES IT"S GOING TO WORK ... cranking ... throttle and it lit off and ran! quickly look around for what the fuel PSI is and there's fluid splashing all over the INSIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD!! SHUT IT DOWN SHUT IT DOWN. ... no shifter in the trans so the gears flung some new lub all over the dash, steering wheel, door, windshield ... uuuuggghhhhh that sucked to clean.

https://i.imgur.com/pGfPVnY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IJjEAen.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KHbugNk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b6OrNoQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XndH4j6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uqY8VHl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IWeVHeR.jpg

[xj_man_646]

with the overhead cam, that adds some height over the stroke length ... but the big issue is the oil pan depth. the oil pump is in the front of the engine and hangs below the crank. pan could be like 4" higher over the axle with a rear pump.

Ahhhh that makes sense.

[xj_man_646]

Awesome progress!

[6DoF]

forgot to post the vid!

https://i.imgur.com/IKHkg2t.mp4

[6DoF]

COMPLETELY forgot to install the CPS before swinging the engine/trans in ... that was more of a b!tch than the stock XJ cuz the bell housing is higher now.

-one heater hose is on
-entire power steering is plumbed with the remote res mounted

i think i have the new acc belt routing and custom tensioner figured. going to take a little fab and ordering a hopefully correctly measured belt, so we'll see. also think the VW alternator has the same B+ and 2-wire hook up as the XJ. it's a different connector, but i'm hoping the XJ computer will control the field wires for me. cross your fingers.

i'm dreading doing the exhaust ... it's suuuupper tight in there ...

[xj_man_646]

just run a hood stack :lol:

[6DoF]

wasted friday and saturday dealing with Hank and trying to get a new transmission, but did get some good work earlier in the week and on Sunday.

fuel PSI was a pain, i don't get why EFI pumps have to be SO extra that it takes 2 regulators to get to a "carb" psi n flow. first is a dead headed to make the stock system return some on it's own, then the second is a return bypass reg to really set a good psi n flow to the pump. i tried both individually and they weren't even close, but together are great.

got the whole interior back together including the B&M short throw shifter. they don't actually sell one for the XJ, but the TJ one seams to be fine. i guess it's a little closer to the dash, but with my arms it seams fine. worst case i can cut n weld it later.

started getting the wiring all figured out for gauges and such. ripped the old wiring off the AW4 in the scrap pile and started using it. NSS is bypassed, the key'd ignition source is the pump fuel solenoid on/off, and found the wire i need to give 12v for rev lights. also got the main 4.0 engine harness all figured out and labeled. orange is worthless, blue is labeled with what it's for. once i confirm everything works i'll strip out the unused, but for now it's a rat's nest on the motor :lol:

i was able to confirm the tach started working with a quick jump across the cam sensor wires thought! huge win!

finally i got the belt tensioner designed. 3D printed some parts to trial fit and measure for the belt, then sent everything to SendCutSend to get some laser cut parts. with that designed, i can get the whole front clip back together and plumb the radiator/intercooler.

https://i.imgur.com/2wOTIf1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kzpaP5j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/H73r8xS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PXUaccJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zZICdPc.jpg

[6DoF]

turbo piping is all fit ... just need to bead roll the ends i cut.
radiator piping is fit ... just need hose clamps.

also got the vac system sealed up and connected. a little manifold where the 4.0 intake used to be and the turbo VNT actuator direct hosed in. i'll mess with a boost controller eventually.

https://i.imgur.com/AF9rH3F.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DQVS16r.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/p70ntRs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mwQlyML.jpg

[Cobound]

Just in time for $7/gal diesel...or non existent fuel, which will be first :p

[6DoF]

Just in time for $7/gal diesel...or non existent fuel, which will be first :p

it's imaginary and will re-set yet again soon enough.

better tell all those ppl heating with oil, and the entire goods transportation network, or maybe all international shipping. plus biodiesel is easier, more cost effective, and has higher yields than ethanol. and i can run on straight waste motor oil, or straight peanut juice.

[MBood82]

That engine is so tiny! Went in very quickly though, looks promising to be a very clean installation when finished.

Also, I think you are missing a shock nut on your drivers side upper shock mount. :-D

[6DoF]

That engine is so tiny! Went in very quickly though, looks promising to be a very clean installation when finished.

Also, I think you are missing a shock nut on your drivers side upper shock mount. :-D

i feel like i need to do something with that space! maybe a raw vegie oil tank so it can stay warm under there?

that's a stud for the airbox, the shock is significantly more of a pain to get to under the brake master :facepalm:

[Cobound]

:rock:

Just ribbin ;)

[6DoF]

hotwired the cam sensor to a relay and sure as ****, the tach works on start-up! just need to rip down the old engine harness to clean that up a ton, and wire this relay for real.

- tubing bead roller should show up today to finish the intake tube fab
- hose clamps to finish the cooling system should also be here today.
- acc belt tensioner parts won't be here til next week. has to be on before i can fiddle with getting the alternator charging
- can start front suspension tear down and get the new bushings/arms swapped in
- can build the bump stop extensions to keep the axle from eating the oil pan
- need to build out the exhaust

last night i got the vacuum system all sealed up, including plumbing the turbo directly in with no controller. now when i start the engine it begins to whistle :lol: :rock:

[xj_man_646]

Its possible I missed it, what is the vacuum line on the turbo for? VGT?

[6DoF]

Its possible I missed it, what is the vacuum line on the turbo for? VGT?

yup, the factory turbo is variable geometry. VW calls it VNT, this is a VNT-15, just a little tiny thing.

full vacuum is full boost, fastest spool-up ... but not as efficient at low throttle cruise. i have a pair of boost control valves to set one for max boost, and one for max boost low throttle. the low throttle switch is just a pneumatic limit switch on the throttle linkage that bypasses that control valve. see post #62

[xj_man_646]

Got it. Very cool!

[6DoF]

head pipe all figured! after final welding and clean-up, it's getting TI wrap as well, hopefully help the starter live longer. the piping is factory 2.25" WK2 exhaust that i took off when the StainlessWorks pipes went in, i love free bits! turned out to be a pretty satisfying routing i think, and kept it high clearance for rocks. speaking of clearance, i had to beat in a little wrench clearance for one bolt, this pipe is bigger than factory VW.

the AL pipe is my sample trial with a new pipe bead roller. china left, me right. i did the rest just a little less pronounced, but that thing worked out awesome everywhere i cut the universal "kit"

https://i.imgur.com/vKCA4Ml.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZqvFetC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/phRxyF2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5pWnpbL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gbbhkHu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YMiPkJg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zsgyJpg.jpg

[6DoF]

huge win this weekend on the XJ! got my SendCutSend parts in and the new belt routing / tensioner is working! longer alternator bolts, some spacers, and a plate to bolt an old stock TDI belt pully to.

didn't actaully get that much time in the shop this weekend, but did also get the 4.0 engine harness cut down quite a bit to only what i need. it's all routed and plugged in, just need the tach-trip relay to short the cam sensor. messed with injection timing a bit and realized i had other issues for the rough idle. research suggests bad injectors, so i tried to swapped in the new ones i already had. too bad they didn't come with the crush seal, and i'm now stuck waiting til next week.

https://i.imgur.com/uk2ug4g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/a4PsQCT.jpg

[xj_man_646]

A friend of mine was going through some rough running issues on his TDI awhile back. Ended up being injection timing.

I recall it because he said the VW tool tells you how far you are from ideal injection timing, but it doesn't tell you if its advanced or retarded, so you have to guess which way to adjust it first :lol:

[6DoF]

A friend of mine was going through some rough running issues on his TDI awhile back. Ended up being injection timing.

I recall it because he said the VW tool tells you how far you are from ideal injection timing, but it doesn't tell you if its advanced or retarded, so you have to guess which way to adjust it first :lol:

yeah, the VAG-COM tool. i used the VAG-com one time :lol: it was funny cuz you loosen the top of the pump, but not enough that diesel sprays out, and you smack it with a hammer til that number goes in range :rolleyes:

the injection timing is SUPER easy to adjust on this engine, so i have run it thru a whole range. i apparently did a decent job on the TDC set-up, cuz i can go both too advanced and too restarted in the current set up. it's a 2 piece pump pully with slotted bolt holes. pop off little plastic cover, loosen, turn, tighten. i don't know exactly where i'm at, but i know i'm in the middle of the good range, and no where in the range would it idle without earthquake mode.

[xj_man_646]

Earthquake mode :lol:

[6DoF]

got a little distracted last night with a local auction site, but was still pretty productive.

https://i.imgur.com/SregZc7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZM1lZbO.jpg

[6DoF]

holy crap! i might not have won the $1.9B lotto ... but i won the XJ bushing lotto! 14 bushings front and back for the control arms and leaves. 14 opportunities for a seized bolt and bushing to not come out. i remember fighting these 20 years ago in college! only 1, one single bushing froze ... and it was the spring to shackle, but the shackle was too rusty and needed scrapped anyways! i just gota buy a new bolt.

i did however break off 3 of the 4 rear upper shock mounting bolts ... so that brings the suck.

[xj_man_646]

I do not miss messing with crusty XJ suspension bits at all :lol:. I was always jealous of the guys on here from rust free states.

[6DoF]

so far so good, and i'm digging the new bits that weren't available the last time i built an XJ! at this point the rear is holding it's own weight and the front axle has all the bolts, but no springs just yet.

drilling thru the shock bolts turned out to be not bad once i found sharp bits. the bolt plates should make a nice fix/update

also feeling pretty luck about the front bump stops. i was missing one of the bump rubbers, so i bought these extra long poly inserts. they turned out to be the perfect height alone to keep the axle off the oil pan! no extra pump pucks or nothing, just snap em in and assemble. full weight, no springs, i'm about 1" from the pan.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61TVe9d-8-L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61FLphUjw5L._AC_SX679_PIbundle-2,TopRight,0,0_SH20_.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Those plates for the shock bolts are slick.

[6DoF]

after a short vacation south to visit some family and my sisters new boat, back at it. the 3" skyjacker lift is all finished up and i gained over 4.25" from stock. hopefully it settles some, and i still need to add a steel front bumper. not the highest quality lift i've ever used, but was nice for the money and had dual rate front coils. the dual rate really are the way to go.

not sure when i'll get the 31s, sooner if the inspection mechanic hates on the dryrot starting in these :lol:

got the injector seals and got the .216's installed ... ran basically the same as with the stock injectors. was really hoping that would smooth things out. maybe a little, but still doesn't run well. actually drove the jeep around the house and driveway a bit, then even down the road a little to check things out. once i get it running like it should, this thing is going to be awesome.

found out on the TDI forum that the Hans pump and injectors i bought are probably bad. he's a swindler who's been around for over a decade with like 100 different websites as they get shut down. before i send this pump/injectors to someone who knows what they are doing for rebuild/recalibration i want to make SURE it's nothing else. compression tester shows up on Wed, and i re-checked the crank-cam timing while i swapped the belt tensioner to be correct, and all that was good. to get the vac pump off the cam for the timing lock i had to get a little creative, i love it when custom tools work really well!

i am having one big issue though ... i can't keep the pump timing! obvious witness marks from the bolts on the pump sprocket moving around on the hub. it's slipped on me a few times and I'm obviously missing something cuz i've only run it a few very short times. i have even found it both advanced and retarded from where i set it before running. worst case i'll have to pin it into a non-adjustable.

https://i.imgur.com/HnfEd7d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xrxRfiI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o2gpj4Z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MlkdDLf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vjf3oS1.jpg

[Cobound]

:rock:

Nify lil tool fab ;)

[6DoF]

still got some good time out there this long weekend and knocked a few things out.

crank to cam timing ... cherry.
Compression #1-4 ... 365/360/360/320

any weird running is officially a pump issue. however i'm also still having issues keeping the pump adjustable sprocket to stay put. i'm to the point that i'm going to drill the sprocket/hub for a dowel pin, or drill and tap more holes at the ends of the slots to really lock it down. any other thoughts on this? my only conclusion at this point is that the 12mm pump is just too much for the factory deal. some of the weird running might be the timing just jumping around all over the place while running.

reverse lights wired and working, the alternator is the only electrical thing left. was shockingly easy to get all the gauges to work.

head pipe painted and wrapped ... because race TDI ... and finished connecting it back to the old factory xj muffler/tailpipe. hopefully this muffler doesn't kill to many of those cool turbo noises.

https://i.imgur.com/7z0DvLh.jpg

[xj_man_646]

I am a bit confused by the pump setup...is it not a factory TDI pump? I missed something somewhere.

[6DoF]

I am a bit confused by the pump setup...is it not a factory TDI pump? I missed something somewhere.

NOPE!!

i ditched the factory 10mm electronic TDI pump for a 12mm fully mechanical pump, better known as M-TDI. it's just a Bosch VE, same 12mm as the one on my Cummins, but only 4 outputs instead of 6.

to work with this VW ALH, there's no factory Bosch pump that'll bolt on ... but there are factory Bosch parts that will all combine to make it. mine however, as i later found out, was assembled by a scammer selling total junk he assembles from new, used, and chineseium parts. generally out of tolerance and not set up correctly.

now, mine does run, just kinda rough. and there are reputable rebuilders that can recombobulate the jokers junk into a good unit too. i just don't really want to send my "new" pump out for rebuild just yet!

[6DoF]

james ... did you work for the same Bosch that makes the injection pumps? know anyone who might get a sick deal on a new 4bt VE?

[6DoF]

well ... : poop:

The good:
-exhaust finished up n good to go.
-timing fixed in place

in the 2 unused slots in the pump sprocket, opposite the TDC lock slot, i installed 2 more M8 bolts. this is adding clamp load and surface area, but also to make things basically non-adjustable i put the bolts hard against the opposite edges of the slots. i pinned the hub to set timing and re-torqued the 3 factory bolts. then with an 8mm drill bit against the edge of the slot, i drilled a dimple to make a center. switched over to the m8-1.25 tap drill size and ran em thru. the hub tapped easy, got bolts in, and no more timing wiggle!

The bad:
as expected, it still runs like dog-sh!t : poop: it starts and runs easy enough, but the idol is rought ... then it's smoother ... then it's violent ... then its just rough again. higher R's it smooths out a bit, then while holding a constant RPM, it will just shutter. once bad enough it made me jump back.

thought screw it, i'm guna try driving it anyways. labored backing out of the garage, mind you it's already warming up, and proceeded to turn around and bring it right back in. it's worse than the last time i tried this ... it's getting worse ...

hopefully i can call around talk to a bunch of good shops today to get more info and make a real plan. also have a buddy who works for Cummins looking into what he could get me too.

[xj_man_646]

james ... did you work for the same Bosch that makes the injection pumps? know anyone who might get a sick deal on a new 4bt VE?

I did work at that Bosch but was not involved with anyone on the fuel pump side of things, unfortunately. I wanted to try to get a box of P7100s :lol:

[xj_man_646]

How much of a pain would it be to run on the electronic pump? I assume you went the mechanical route to make the electrical integration that much easier? If feasible...might be worth running on that pump to verify you don't have a deeper issue within the engine.

I'm guessing this won't be easy though :lol:

[6DoF]

i actually have a harness and ecu for the factory TDI pump ... but it's a drive-by-wire throttle i'd have to wire up, and i'm missing the mass-air.

fakk ... a box of p7100 would be goooollldddd.

i emailed Franz in The Netherlands again, see if he had any Rover 300TDI pumps around cheap. even still, they aren't that bad new if i had to start over. i think it's actually way easier than i originally thought it was to swap on. the more i look into it, the more it's really just the tuning bits i'd have been changing anyways.

[6DoF]

well ... i'm doing it ... i'm going back to emailing tunes rather than turning screws. getting a complete stand alone harness, tune, and injectors from the same guys in CA. Fast Forward Automotive.

cross your fingers for me!

[xj_man_646]

Best of luck! I think you will ultimately be happier with the stand alone electronic set up.

[6DoF]

https://media3.giphy.com/media/fGL80gGa1scfCXfzoo/giphy.gif?cid=790b7611561026a5896cce5bcd1f38887994 7906b32ed4f0&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g

[6DoF]

just dropped the core harness/ecu/injectors of at USPS to ship to Canada ... we'll see how long til i get the finished goodness back

[xj_man_646]

They're converting it to stand alone?

[6DoF]

They're converting it to stand alone?

kinda like the LS harness stripping ... removing all the BS, adding some nice-to-have's, labeling everything, etc. the vehicle side of the ECU from VW was really just an ECU connector and a firewall connector, but they make it into a few different wire groups well labeled for cruise, throttle pedal, etc.

they are also doing the tune, removing connectors for sensors removed in the tune, bigger injectors I'm also getting from them too. one nice ad is they convert to use engine RPM with the cruise control so there's no need for a VSS to be wired in. lets you set high idle for warm-up, winching, PTO's etc.

[xj_man_646]

That sounds pretty cool. I like the cruise based on RPM idea. That is neat.

[6DoF]

i keep seeing good reviews ... so i'm just super hopefully this fires up and runs nice! i really want to start driving it and get to working on Hank. Fast Forward officially received my cores too! hopefully he's not all backed up and i can get the set-up soon.

Stage-3 tune (18psi across the board)
harness with the nifty tach-to-vss
.260 injectors (this time properly build and tested)

last night when i got home from work, had ZERO motivation ... but just couldn't sit still. wife threw me out to the shop. ended up fully swapping everything over from M-TDI to 'e-TDI', got everything timed, and wiring laid out ready to tie into the new harness. only thing left is to figure out the throttle-by-wire pedal and i'll be ready.

should be a nice pc to install

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/dg3Pi1DZINqXQe_sZrTgDN6SNUvNyc4Hy0RwF7VoRDpw7UZJsA bT9zZsF02k6IerzKW61Q-0-TMXzz0cqnucjZJ59DKA1xttEllCvMDnLjsiSiBs4MlYBUqre-e8uzVkJs6xIfzzRiLh4x8a-3bd9S3GOwcwVulvTNWS=w1280
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HTFn_PBiT6iQgrvHDKZFpPY32kjA6EVY4NzF1I3TAchKUbcZrC qGrFgtH5cFwDFjM5tngfANPnFlIxi4wB0fKD-O_jy3lJppcBCS1pqcXMcLjRwRd6RAz0F_4aaWopz7GY-9rhjYAVbQIvT5a9k2dO5lhcdPJpYjpNE0Fmk1RwX3UqXSSJ1X4 g=w1280

[6DoF]

You should have your MIL show up for 3 weeks. Even though it's miserable outside... it's good motivation. Plus there is only so much TV to watch.

:lol:

mine has sequestered herself to her basement kitchen baking hundreds of dozens of cookies!

[xj_man_646]

I am not sure exactly what you need for the drive by wire pedal in this application, but I know guys have used the 95+ GM 6.5TD pedal assembly in drive by wire LS swaps.

[6DoF]

i have the MK4 TDI pedal/sensor, it just looks like an odd-duck that wasn't going to fit into the jeep firewall/floor very well. i was thinking i would cut up the pedal bit and make a bracket to attach the XJ cable to under the hood. clean, all XJ pedals, and could place it anywhere i wanted. well i got to researching what others have done, and it looks like i can just make a basic sheet bracket to weld to the factory XJ pedal bracket and it should line up great. might be one of the easier things it needed actually.

https://www.idparts.com/images/a4_accel_pedal_3372.jpg

[MBood82]

i have the MK4 TDI pedal/sensor, it just looks like an odd-duck that wasn't going to fit into the jeep firewall/floor very well. i was thinking i would cut up the pedal bit and make a bracket to attach the XJ cable to under the hood. clean, all XJ pedals, and could place it anywhere i wanted. well i got to researching what others have done, and it looks like i can just make a basic sheet bracket to weld to the factory XJ pedal bracket and it should line up great. might be one of the easier things it needed actually.

https://www.idparts.com/images/a4_accel_pedal_3372.jpg

I really liked the original idea, seems elegant and keeps a factory look in the interior. However, I bet that sensor isn't truly weather proof, putting it in the engine bay instead of the cabin may result in a short life, or even worse, inconsistent throttle application as it gets dirty. I'm glad the bracket ended up being a fairly simple fix.

[6DoF]

maybe 2 weeks before i sent off the ECU and harness, i got the headliner re-glued in the XJ. not the best job ever, but re-using the factory fabric and lining up the holes on overly stretched fabric was a b!tch.

i also got the electronic TDI throttle pedal installed. i did basically the same thing as Bleepin from his YouTube and it was right there. i ended up adding some washers on final install to tip the pedal fwd more though. just some bent sheet welded to the factory pedal mount and 3 nutserts.

https://i.imgur.com/ctO5R8D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ndzcY3J.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hST9dDX.jpg

[MBood82]

https://i.imgur.com/hST9dDX.jpg

If that had vertical lines running on the "gas" pedal instead of the diagonal lines that would look 100% factory. Very nicely done!

[6DoF]

i really want a set of these

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/4878b32d-579c-4684-9245-4e23e7c72ebf.e4635519143716e8d61516bcc454ceee.jpeg

[Cobound]

:lol: Those are awesome :p

Headliner, I've put them in...used fabric from Joanne's that my daughter picked out and we cleaned off the original headliner, scraped it to remove all the old fuzz, then sprayed, stretched and laid it down...felt pretty good about it, but there were definitely areas that could have stuck better.

Using the original material, whoa - nightmare! Why did you go that route vs just putting on new stuff and cutting the holes? :dunno:

[6DoF]

Using the original material, whoa - nightmare! Why did you go that route vs just putting on new stuff and cutting the holes? :dunno:

being a cheap-fawk ... should have done something interesting.

in the end though, this is still a bit of a beater and the stock came out fine. just not amazing.

[Cobound]

LOL, I hear that on the chap fawk front :lol:

Here are some shots of my daughter's project...she picked out one that was her style, NOT MINE :roflmao:

This has been sold now, and her current XJ will probably need one next year...maybe :p

https://scontent.ffcm1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/127663855_10100226817459650_3211765503674075879_n. jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=yDnigQZ_4gQAX9Eow1d&_nc_oc=AQmJjLZBylCIDJ0zWRulEfclxS8zr0NeVhTBKTFz5lw Vj2g4Bnrc1NL7ehCRtuksrW8&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-1.fna&oh=00_AfA3RCYpITvrT8NXHXM8WXbbJEniLV4L5rrOpmCtZMOF XQ&oe=63DBECF1

Had to remove all that fuzz...was a project in itself!

https://scontent.ffcm1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/127908862_10100226817434700_9068025565430470_n.jpg ?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=4Trj7E4KpHUAX8QCoM3&tn=7CZA-YkTYfLTNkRd&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-2.fna&oh=00_AfDWobDnCJy96ClI3KHwqTkDD1GnHrZHglpW7u4elzIj BA&oe=63DBE621

https://scontent.ffcm1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/188710050_10100265035430530_1966626159267041240_n. jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p720x720&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=VJRf8s9TtA4AX8l1Nkk&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-1.fna&oh=00_AfCCa_ikOTlDpXFuG9mrvOlMJTE9fG4nhM6E6gPiKb2J BQ&oe=63DBF07D

https://scontent.ffcm1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/188069489_10100265035455480_104288975479603371_n.j pg?stp=dst-jpg_p720x720&_nc_cat=111&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=sZu6bQ4E9VkAX9LUNLe&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-1.fna&oh=00_AfDwFKlIXw-rYsK1JBzSRbzzHaRhUph7ebgPatnzR2vPWQ&oe=63DBCAF2

Even removed and used the original stickers ;)

https://scontent.ffcm1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/127576275_10100226973631680_7047656226543180335_n. jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=V5QCv0ozjpEAX9FJELC&tn=7CZA-YkTYfLTNkRd&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-2.fna&oh=00_AfDON7MQ7BDd1786Gv6VrkcBqrZnqx2cLBqYlMlnBhq0 DQ&oe=63DBE668

[6DoF]

the XJ i didn't even clean the foam, i just blew the dust off and sprayed the glue! :lol:

[Cobound]

:lol:

[6DoF]

PARTS WERE DELIVERED!!

Fakk i wanna go home n wrench!

[TJTodd]

I've been lurking on this thread and I need 6DoF to go home and wrench so I can see the next update!

[Cobound]

:lol: :yes:

[TJTodd]

6DoF - you called in sick today, right? :D

[6DoF]

not only was there no calling in sick ... there is much fail.

got basically everything hooked up Wednesday, thursday i routed the throttle pedal wires and OBD inside and tried to start it. this is when the BS started. as far as i can tell, the injection pump isn't leaking, but is sucking air somehow.

i have +10psi clean fuel pressure at the inlet ... but after bleeding 2 injectors and trying to start it, i'll get another huge bubble of air blasting into the tank from the return line. today i need to look for leaks after letting it sit longer with fuel in it and call around to a few shops for ideas. this pump sat 10yrs on a buddies shelf installed on this motor, and had fuel run out, but probably has some dried out o-rings or something.

[xj_man_646]

Man...that sucks! What pump does that engine use in this configuration?

[TJTodd]

... at least you aren't fighting with a CP4 in a new Gladiator with the 3.0 ecodiesel?

[6DoF]

air bled ... IQ set ... everything else hooked up. alternator charges, n75 is in, MAP mounted, wiring tied up, and actually has way more pep driving than i thought it would!

still can't start it

seriously though ... i can bump start it, fires right up, but no amount of starter cranking will get it to even pop. :james:

[xj_man_646]

That is a bizarre issue. Once its running, all is fine? What's the longest you've kept it running so far?

[6DoF]

once running, she's pretty great. just maybe a little bit of a rougher idle than i'd expect. last run i've driven it up n down the driveway a few time and even around the block. gets warm, defrost works, radiator hoses got warm, etc. no fuel leaks i can tell either.

at this point, the only guess i have, after some research, is that the pump is worn out. basically at the starting RPM, it can't make enough PSI to pop the new injectors. bump starting kicks it over less revolutions, but much faster, and as soon as one cylinder fires it's spinning fast enough to create the PSI.

i'm guna call a few shops today n ask around for thoughts. but now i'm torn between finding another junkyard pump or just getting a re-man.

[xj_man_646]

What pump is it?

[TJTodd]

if you are down to a replacement pump ... i'd say re-man vs another junkyard piece ... buy once, cry once

[xj_man_646]

I was going to suggest the opposite. With more complex components, OEM has usually lasted longer than re-man for me , even if they do come from a JY.

[TJTodd]

"OEM has usually lasted longer than re-man for me" ..... OEM yes, but junkyard has always been a gamble for me ..... I could just be chicken.

[6DoF]

pump is good! i wired the TDI ECU to a key-on wire that is fracking oooofffff during cranking! i can't believe i did that ... but i'd much rather swallow my pride on a stupid mistake than the bill for a rebuilt IP. new wire, instant BRAP!

drove it to buy it's own wiper blades, and that feels good. definitely has enough enough power, that's feels REALLY good. it's the Golf i always wished i had back in the day.

the drive shaft angles are junk right now from me just throwing it together, so they vibrate. i used poly engine mounts and the engine vibrates the chassis at a light more than i expected vs the old golf. plus something in the front axle isn't happy. something is binding, or grinding, or just worn out ... but jacked up and wigglin' everything it's all tight. i'll have to get deeper later. tonight's a win and i'm celebrating.

https://i.imgur.com/NoAO0yH.jpg

[nblehm]

:rock:

that is 2 projects you have gotten running and I still dont have the waggy done :cry:

[6DoF]

:rock:

that is 2 projects you have gotten running and I still dont have the waggy done :cry:

to be fair, you have a kid who seams to be pretty cool ... that's a big project! but yeah, wtf slacker, get on that waggy!

also, things drive sooner when you live by the Freiburger-ism ... "don't get it right, just get it running" if a family member was in the hospital, i'd blast this 80 down the freeway, but they aren't, and i was SERIOUSLY hesitant to drive it the 6miles to work this morning. there are so many different vibrations, rattles, and clunk noises that i can't even determine where to start :eek:

i need to plug the computer back in to check timing and mess with the IQ, see if i can't get the idle to smooth out some. i either need to play shim games on the rear axle or get the SYE. front axle needs adjustable uppers at minimum ... but i might need to cut the coils to loose some height with how light this engine is.

[xj_man_646]

That is awesome! Easy fix is best fix.

[6DoF]

after the drive to/from work yesterday, definitely need to work on some things. the idle is way too rough to be correct, and my drive shaft angles are super bad. but it runs!

i got back into the IQ and 'hammer mod' reset myself to 3.8-4.0, it only just kind of flips back n forth slowly. that seams pretty good, but it's still just shaking the crap out of the jeep. smooth while cruising though, so I'm hopefully it's something like a timing adjustment in VCDS that i just haven't figure out how to do yet.

building this i put the engine in where it fit the best, and just blindly swapped the lift kit on quick so i could move it around. now that it's running, it's time to go back and tune in the drive shaft angles. measured last night and I'm 13deg out in the back and 16deg out in the front!

https://media.tenor.com/RWZvYPrUv9MAAAAM/excited-too-much-energy.gif

[Cobound]

You people's patience is amazing :lol:

Nate, you have as many hours wheeling that Willys as he has working on this XJ - both cool!

[TJTodd]

I'd suggest sitting at a few red lights for a while with a well endowed female passenger before you get that fixed ;-)

[6DoF]

https://media.tenor.com/xlM-1J_CaBUAAAAC/recess-janitor.gif

[Cobound]

Not sure that is a good example...:yuk:

:lol:

[TJTodd]

yeah ... was thinking more like this .....

https://gfycat.com/hotnecessaryglowworm-cleavagehttps://thumbs.gfycat.com/HotNecessaryGlowworm-max-1mb.gif

[6DoF]

now that's how you start a new page!

big improvements happened:
-front diff was low, topped off with 85-140 diff honey
-rear diff was over full but thin ... siphoned some and re-filled with diff honey
-front drive shaft removed
-rear drive shaft replaced 2 caps to the joint is tight at the axle
-track bar bolt was falling out ... reinstalled with nut this time
-greased all TRE and Ball joints
-drained strawberry milkshake from the t-case ... refilled with MTF and some trany honey
-reset the IQ in the TDI ECU to slightly smooth the idle some

still need to check all timing mechanical vs digital is aligned in the ECU, but i need a paid copy of the VCDS first. working on that. rear shaft still vibrates, but in general the whole thing is WAY better!!

ordered a new steering stabilizer, adjustable front UCAs, and an SYE. should be dialed in no time.

i'm also fairly sure i'm going to cut the front coils down by like 1" cuz this motor is so freaking light. the front is taller than the back, and i added lift shackles to the back over the kit.

[6DoF]

oh yeah, also got the sway bar reconnected. just scabbed in some scrap round bar i had laying around.

https://i.imgur.com/LDaKTM7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I0O60lP.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Don't forget cutting the coils is going to stiffen it up. I'd look into a different solution if it were me. What a sweet project though...totally jealous. I neeeeeeeeeeeed a decent place to work on things.

[TJTodd]

I'm on my third warning from the management group for working on my Jeep in the parking lot, and threatened with eviction. Apartment life sucks.

[6DoF]

Don't forget cutting the coils is going to stiffen it up. I'd look into a different solution if it were me. What a sweet project though...totally jealous. I neeeeeeeeeeeed a decent place to work on things.

yup! and that's not a bad thing in my mind!

[xj_man_646]

You have a polebarn with a concrete floor. You're out of excuses. Yes, I too like watching jeepnski work but I'm not making excuses.

Right...as I'm sure you're willing to work with no heat in winter and in a shop where it exceeds ambient in the summer.

To be honest I'm considering biting the bullet and installing some better lighting and the 2 post with 220 circuit this summer so I can do something in there (installing the PEX tubing prior to concrete only took a couple hours, but it was so hot in the barn that I ended up puking my brains out due to heat exhaustion).

The problem is that the project of upgrading the electrical snowballs very quickly because I need an all new run from the meter, which requires trenching almost 200' across both legs of my driveway. Or I could get another meter installed where the power company would do the trenching to the barn from wherever they need to....not sure which route to go yet. I only have 60A to the barn as it is now, and what I described is what it takes to get more than 100A out there.

That is enough for now, I don't want to clog up his thread too much :lol:

[xj_man_646]

yup! and that's not a bad thing in my mind!

Surprised you want it stiffer :lol:

[6DoF]

Surprised you want it stiffer :lol:

i've always thought XJ's rode a bit soft. 'Skunked', the 2nd cheep at 611, used F-150 junkyard coils in the front and were awesome. these are a dual rate with a super long free height, loosing 1/2 a coil shouldn't make a noticeable ride change. it will however make a big difference at the drive shaft!

i'm also not planning to run any winch added to the weight loss of an already light motor. these are the shortest dual-rate i could get my hands on, so options are limited.

[xj_man_646]

All makes sense. Excited to see more!

[Cobound]

Man, my daughter had a XJ that blue, was really sharp. She has that purple'ish blue now, and still sharp - nicely lifted, rides great, clean. That said, it is still an XJ :p

I know she'd like something newer, it's older than she is, but it's so clean and what I feel is reliable, and affordable, that I hate to see her take on payments while she's just getting used to paying on her student loan :james:

I'm super tempted in giving her some cash when she is ready tho, keeping it - while I wouldn't drive it much, it's one I'd hate to see gone. I still have such a soft spot for them!!

[xj_man_646]

You're starting to sound like a 52? year old from Minnesota that I share a first name with. What do you do all day? You've been there how many years? Didn't jeepnski build a house and several vehicles in this timeframe?

He also married a doctor :lol:. I straight up haven't had the funds to tackle any of the jobs related to my barn when each stage is between 5-10k from the bids I've gotten. Concrete was probably the biggest step, though.

[Cobound]

LOL, Matt isn’t in MN and I’m not 52, so there’s a bit of mystery here :lol:

Excuses. LOL, I’m admittedly lazy, but I still end up getting shyt done, and wheel :f2:

You gonna make it to EJS this year? :p

[xj_man_646]

You gonna make it to EJS this year? :p

Likely not.

[6DoF]

who needs a lift when you've got crazy jack stands!?!? i sat up nicely under there while i rebuild that case still bolted to the trans.

SYE installed last night, looks like the spare XJ shaft i have needs 2.5" added to it. also looks like the rear axle is perfectly pointed already! the springs came with degree shims on them already in the kit, so that's a win.

https://i.imgur.com/mS1ZnCO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vBXa03k.jpg

[Cobound]

HOVER JEEP :p

Yeah, those stands are pimp! If you have a jack that gets them up there! Still on your back tho, just reaching farther :lol:

[6DoF]

If you have a jack that gets them up there! Still on your back tho, just reaching farther :lol:

1) ProEagle jack FTMFW ... i highly suggest the new HF version. the interlocking extendable risers are amazing, i have both heights for the ProE. i actually have 2 ProE cuz i got a warranty one and then fixed the first B-)

2) i was fully sitting up! the bottom of the t-case was eye-level. just sitting with my legs crossed working in front of my face. way nicer.

[Cobound]

LOL, just ribbing ya.

Yeah, I took a serious look at the PE and instead grabbed a low profile, high lifting HF jack 1-2 years ago, love it.

THEN, when the HF PE clone came out I looked into it...probably would have grabbed one if they were in stock, but seemed to always be out, or 100 miles away. Maybe another time.

Totally love those jacks, I used them at my buddy's place when I did the lift on my LE a couple years ago, total game changers!!!

[xj_man_646]

Where did those jack stands in the rear come from?

[6DoF]

Amazon

Sumner 781300 ST-881 Hi Fold-A-Jacks with V-Head, 10" Height, 2500 lb.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sumner-781300-ST-881-Jacks-V-Head/dp/B01FMC5BGS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2V9LO3ZA043XR&keywords=Sumner%2BST-881%2BHi%2BFold-A-Jacks%2Bwith%2BV-Head&qid=1675184970&sprefix=sumner%2Bst-881%2Bhi%2Bfold-a-jacks%2Bwith%2Bv-head%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&th=1

[xj_man_646]

Those are legit!

[6DoF]

Those are legit!

i can easily put em under the bumpers of the YJ and have the axles dangle off the ground at a nice working height, that was my main reason for getting them. made the 'tons swap easier.

[6DoF]

it's pretty obvious that these lift springs were build 100% assuming the customer would also get an SYE. they even had a pre-installed degree shim and lined up the drive shaft right where it needed to be. game on, cuz she runs nice n smooth now! and don't forget to always properly fixture your temporarily-permanent weldments.

the front i didn't get any pictures of, but i got the adjustable UCAs installed. well, one UCA. it's a nice proper 3-link with panhard now. no clue why the factory designed in bind, but things move so much nicer missing the pass UCA. has about 4-4.5* caster, while the drive shaft is still about 3deg off from the pinion. not perfection, but drives great so good enough.

https://i.imgur.com/ki3CyEk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/liVqNdq.jpg

[Cobound]

Oh shiz...that's one way to do it :eek:

No vibes, huh? Nice!!

[6DoF]

at this point, i've done that so many times with great results it's just SOP.

the key is doing it like sheet metal, start with lots of tacks and jumping side to side to keep the pull even. then once you have a solid base, just move around and fill in. breaks for cooling help. then i grind the top of the weld to even out the start-stop build up, and where it gets lumpy welding around the clamps, to reduce possible weight balance issues while leaving a little proud for extra material hold.

[nblehm]

I made a driveshaft when I ls swapped the J10. It was good til about 55 :lol:

[6DoF]

tonight i'll do a highway run for 1-exit to go get my parents mail ... i guess we'll find out!

[TJTodd]

Want to do a second diesel swap? I found a donor for you: https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/sussex-2001-jeep-cherokee-xj/7581767970.html

[6DoF]

Want to do a second diesel swap? I found a donor for you: https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/sussex-2001-jeep-cherokee-xj/7581767970.html

i am jumping off the new project wagon for a while! i need to spend a few years detailing what i already have going!

only new thing i might start is a barn/shop

[6DoF]

got the VCDS registered/activated, logged in, and the timing was closer than i thought it would be. after a quick adjust it does run smoother, but idle still vibrates the jeep pretty hard. i'm shocked it's worse than the 12v in the 55! everyone said don't use poly mounts, but how could it be worse?!?! :james: looks like i'll eventually be re-doing the engine mounts with VW hydro mounts instead. shouldn't be TOO bad, just effort.

seams like the drive shafts are also just a tad off still. the rear is probably not perfect, and the front needs another adjustment as well. i didn't cut coils the last time i was in there, but now might be the time to do that before i roll the axle any more. once my credit card recovers, i'll just order a new rear shaft and keep this as a spare.

it also hit me that i might not have cleaned all the mud out of the clutch from the PO and it might be causing a vibration too ... sure as hell not going in there to check!

[6DoF]

drove about 150mile round trip last night to get new tires n wheels off a buddies LJ. even swapped em on at his place quick for the drive home. soooo much better on less sh!t tires! looks better, drives better, even the speedo is dead on now. i'm actually super happy with the 30x9.5 vs the 31's i was looking for. most likely will stay with this size for good.

the NVH was kind bad ... i ordered some hydraulic motor mounts to replace these poly with. hopefully its' not too much of an issue.

drive shafts still need a little work.

on the way home the VNT vac diaphragm on the turbo blew out. TDI-XJ with 20psi ... GOOD! TDI-XJ with 2psi ... noooooot as good! probably something like 48hp :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/Ykn76fN.jpg

[TJTodd]

"probably something like 48hp" ... nice! so it basically turned into a farm tractor :lol:

[6DoF]

1.9L of diesel furry accelerating at the speed of smell!

https://media.tenor.com/BEQavoKK-QEAAAAM/smell-sniff.gif

[Cobound]

Nice shop :eek:

[6DoF]

threw the DIY front bumper (still in the box) i bought way back up on the hood, and cut the front coils 2x trying to sneak up on 1" lower. got there, and it's correct! i can't feel any difference in ride, but the wheel openings are now equal and the body has a slight forward lean. it brought the front drive shaft into better alignment without any further adjustment too.

turbo vain actuator showed up early and turned out be only a 20min fix, that never happens. but the engine responds way better than it has, so all win.

https://i.imgur.com/PyvOgnL.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Looks great with that tire and wheel setup.

[6DoF]

i think with the 30s the factory gearing should be fine still. i feel like 31s and i might have needed more. i'll be downshifting on the hightway up some hills, but so what ... it is right in the MPG RPM most of the time.

still over 1/2 tank reading ... well over 200miles driven.

[6DoF]

i think i'm officially there, it's daily-able ... i guess that means it's time to 6spd swap Hank!

[xj_man_646]

That's awesome. And I want it :lol:.

[6DoF]

so i posted this thing up for sale. i just never fell in love with it, and it really does need a bunch of little tinkering and detailing to be right/done. if i can get my money back, i'll move her along.

[xj_man_646]

What is your price?

[6DoF]

i have $9500 into it, more than i'd like to have had ... asking $9500

[xj_man_646]

Dang I didn't realize the project cost went up that high.

[6DoF]

me either ... just checked my spreadsheet and i'm actually at 9100. the OG budget was built with no lift or suspension work, no new bumpers, no custom stand-alone engine harness or ECU tuning work, and not having to buy a whole 2nd engine. i would do the lift pump system differently and probably a little cheaper next time, but that pretty much covers where i lost it. i'm going to end up having to dial this build in to make it nice enough to be worth the extra costs, find someone who NEEDS it, or take a little loss selling/parting it.

the jeep itself, all new lift, new proper SYE, used tires n wheels, short throw shifter and t-case cable shifter, complete 5spd swap, and i'm at $3335. really not that bad all things considered for a stupid clean 2000 2dr XJ with a manual trans.

the trans adapter was 900, intercooler n piping stuff was only 350, but the unexpected 2nd engine was 800, and the stand alone and tune was $1400 with new injectors. plus like $600 in fuel pressure regulators i'd do differently, the ods n ends, and i have $5760 in the engine swap. again, not horrible for a full deal with lots of new/fancy parts, just not a bargain.

it wasn't built to be a flip either, different choices were made.

[Cobound]

Ouch - good luck!

[6DoF]

the feedback seams to be that ppl who want it would be willing to pay it, but they are all broke. the ppl who don't want a diesel XJ think it's worth less than a 4.0. but everyone agrees i'd sell it quick/easy for my money if i put in the time to detail it out and make it nice-ish.

well if i put in the time, i probably won't wanna sell it!

[Cobound]

LOL, that's the crux, right - time in and keep, no time and lose some.

Either way, is it worth the money to put in the time...or is it worth piece of mind that it's gone and you lost some only to make it up elsewhere and spend time on the things you truly want to spend time on, and not having it in the way or on the mind that it's there :dunno:

[6DoF]

i can 100% get something out of the XJ still, i would daily it all winter to save salt on Hank. i was thinking if it sold i would finally 4x4 the TJ for winter too, but that jeep is too nice to salt up. hell, if the Grand sells, the wife could drive it on sh!tty days downtown.

the XJ needs a lot of detail work, but is more time than money. it's also probably not that much money at this point. once the airstream is up and functional, i'll probably spend some time on it before going back to the 55

[Cobound]

You definitely have options to choose from when you're bored :lol:

[6DoF]

You definitely have options to choose from when youre bored :lol:

:D sometimes i have to schedule being bored, it's nice.

so i hadn't touched this little thing for probably 5 or 6 weeks cuz i was mad at it, and had enough else to do. decided to stick a battery back in it and take it for a spin monday, even drove it to work today. it's really pretty decent and i think it's a solid plan ... just not a finished execution yet. most issues are just stuff i've not gotten to yet.

things to redo:
- engine mounts ... i didn't believe ppl when they said don't use poly. they also need moved closer to the engine CG to control it better. to do this right might require a new manifold and turbo relocation.
- Headliner ... i didn't clean the old foam off like an idiot and it fell again. it was **** reusing the fabric anyways, so not the worst, i already have the new material and the liner pulled.
- front end alignment with pinion adjustment

Jeep things to do:
- Trade a buddy who wants my NV3550 for his AX15 that i want, rebuild the AX15 and install it. is a direct bolt-in swap.
- Install a locker or posi in the back, this one wheel peal sh!t sux
- BigBoy seat brackets, down n back for head and leg room
- new radio cuz worst aftermarket unit eeeevvveerrr. i'll probably use the android unit from the TJ n try something different there.
- find parasitic 12v draw n stop it
- clean side molding sticky off doors
- clearcoat hood n roof
- fix end stops on drivers window motor

VW things to do:
- swap temp sensor cuz this one reads way off. hopefully this will fix the over-fueling once warm.
- figure out why it starts so hard with the key, but bump starts awesome
- cruise control switches and wiring
- wire temp sender wire out from vw ecu to jeep harness input
- figure out better way to trick the jeep ECU to read the CPS for tach. the relay i'm using currently doesn't work 20% of the time
- build compound turbo ... cuz reasons

[Cobound]

Man, I just gave an XJ radio away, too - totally would've shipped that to ya.

I've done headliners...while not hard, they do kinda suck. We used some stuff from JoAnn Farid - but I'd take a stock headliner kit over that myself.

Sounds like you got this - and will then probably keep it to ride when your heart desires :lol:

[6DoF]

Man, I just gave an XJ radio away, too - totally would've shipped that to ya.

I've done headliners...while not hard, they do kinda suck. We used some stuff from JoAnn Farid - but I'd take a stock headliner kit over that myself.

Sounds like you got this - and will then probably keep it to ride when your heart desires :lol:

hopefully get it to road trip with at least the same MPG as the vette ... :james:

[nblehm]

We put a double din radio in our xj and it made it feel way more modern in there. Nice to be able to plug in a phone and have all the maps and features of CarPlay. The trim panels they make for it make it look like it is supposed to be there too.

[6DoF]

We put a double din radio in our xj and it made it feel way more modern in there. Nice to be able to plug in a phone and have all the maps and features of CarPlay. The trim panels they make for it make it look like it is supposed to be there too.

i think this is my plan!

i have a double din android radio in the TJ right now ... so it runs android like it's a tablet, can run android apps, but has to have wifi to do stuff. i'd much rather have a standard radio with wireless android auto and let the phone control it. i'm thinking i'll swap the current one into the XJ and get something new for the TJ.

[6DoF]

things to redo:
- engine mounts ... i didn't believe ppl when they said don't use poly. they also need moved closer to the engine CG to control it better. to do this right might require a new manifold and turbo relocation.
- Headliner ... i didn't clean the old foam off like an idiot and it fell again. it was **** reusing the fabric anyways, so not the worst, i already have the new material and the liner pulled.
- front end alignment with pinion adjustment

Jeep things to do:
- Trade a buddy who wants my NV3550 for his AX15 that i want, rebuild the AX15 and install it. is a direct bolt-in swap.
- Install a locker or posi in the back, this one wheel peal sh!t sux
- BigBoy seat brackets, down n back for head and leg room
- new radio cuz worst aftermarket unit eeeevvveerrr. i'll probably use the android unit from the TJ n try something different there.
- find parasitic 12v draw n stop it
- clean side molding sticky off doors
- clearcoat hood n roof
- fix end stops on drivers window motor

VW things to do:
- swap temp sensor cuz this one reads way off. hopefully this will fix the over-fueling once warm.
- figure out why it starts so hard with the key, but bump starts awesome
- cruise control switches and wiring
- wire temp sender wire out from vw ecu to jeep harness input
- figure out better way to trick the jeep ECU to read the CPS for tach. the relay i'm using currently doesn't work 20% of the time
- build compound turbo ... cuz reasons

- headline: DONE!
- figured out the cold start issue, and the over-fueling issue: the tune was built for way smaller injectors even thought i bought them with the tune from the same dude. :james:
- got a VNT-17 to replace the 15: should be able to make 25% more boost while being more efficient about it. this specific install should move the turbo up and forward for a way better location too.

got the engine/trans back out to start the whole trans swap and mount re-do. cleaning up wiring, hose routing, etc at the same time and more deleting unused BS.

https://i.imgur.com/vHXXciO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Jq6eaMD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1MUOlbi.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Nice! I can't recall why...what is the reason for going to AX-15?

[6DoF]

i could actually use less 1st, so much torque in the TDI, and a buddy wants the lower 1st of the 3550 over the ax-15 he has ... i would rather have the ax-15 to match the YJ, (spare parts) ... ax-15 is generally regarded as stronger ... ax15 is easier to rebuild, the 3550 is completely missing the 2nd gear synchro so i needed to pull n rebuild anyways

[xj_man_646]

:thumbsup: Makes sense. I didn't realize the AX-15 was actually stronger. I know you're well versed in them though :lol:

[6DoF]

i mean, an ax15 i rebuilt at 611 is still up and running behind the stroker in my YJ with my right foot ... they are good sh!t!

[6DoF]

i gotta say ... i expected to see more difference between the 15 and 17. doesn't matter though since it was all about location. this 05 Passat set is WAY better for the jeep!

https://i.imgur.com/ZBKFUAh.jpg

[6DoF]

got my AX15 ready for rebuild! that turned into an interesting day :lol:

so it's a 99 i traded for. 3550 for ax-15 but mine came in this pile. the whole TJ is just junk, like epic junk. when i knew everything was going to fight me, i decided to just can-opener this b!tch and have easy access. a few minutes with some wire cutters, grinder, and a recip she was ready. i just ran the recip thru the frame mounts for the body. wife drove the truck, i messed with what i missed cutting. only had to get the e-brake cables, and turns out the fuel rail can lift the front end before it breaks :lol: best part was, by not cutting the drivers mounts, it just laid right back down on the frame! re-filled with BS and she's ready for scrapping.

you can see in the one pic how rusty the clutch is. the whole inside of the bell housing looks like this might need an exorcism vs a rebuild. the 231 was actually frozen to the trans, i ended up breaking the front case half a few places pretty bad before it finally came off. trans is clean though. saved a few other parts for selling or hording.

next step, rebuild.

https://i.imgur.com/glQZb43.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lrzwE2j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NHPRSu2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BoJcG3u.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zyEydIZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KYjMfWk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/r6n7gFV.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Man...that type of corrosion on a vehicle of that vintage is down right impressive. Was it in the ocean? LOL!

[Cobound]

Wow, right...was that a chase vehicle for the road salt crew :lol:

[6DoF]

:lol:

[6DoF]

something about rebuilding transmissions is highly satisfying!

this one wasn't quite as satisfying to open up ... :james:

https://i.imgur.com/c3FIV5t.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Yikes! How do you clean that stuff off the internal components that don't get replaced with a rebuild?

[6DoF]

my plan is to "polish" everything crusty with a wire knot wheel on a grinder ... anything that's TOO pitted i'll just replace while its' all apart. the one pc counter shaft looks all good, and i have all new bearings for the gears on the main shaft. the main shaft gears are only like $85 each worst case.

all things considered ... i'll probably just clean and send it. it'll work fine, only issue will be for how long. chances are long enough

[6DoF]

well ... that chit did NOT buff out ...

most of the trans came really nice and clean. worst case more staining than pitting from the rusty bits. 2nd and 3rd gears however are fully fubar, no hardened gear face left on too many teeth. i ordered those 2 gears from Allstate Gear, hopefully they come soon.

so i figured i'd try this. after using a 2-bolt puller to get 5th off the counter shaft, and unbolting the plate to get reverse out of the way, pulled the bearing circ-clips and the shift fork bolts. both shafts slid out the front while the shift forks slid off the rails. i feel like this might take 3 hands to get back together, but is way less teardown and less parts to loose by leaving the shift rails entirely intact. even the complete reverse lever is still mounted to the mid plate.

https://i.imgur.com/UHyIRtO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RIsWbMv.jpg

[Cobound]

Holy balls, thought my recent work in my daughter's '98 XJ was bad - that's straight up ocean soaked right there :p

Wow!!

[MBood82]

....you traded a fully functional transmission, for that?

:james:

[xj_man_646]

Well, it came with an entire rotted out TJ surrounding it :lol:.

My guess is Matt will be able to sell at least some parts from the donor rig.

[6DoF]

the NV3550 had ZERO 2nd gear synchro left, so it needed to come out for rebuild anyways. i had made money off the XJ i parted to get the 3550 too.

AX15 is generally considered stronger, it's easier and cheaper to get parts for, and easier to rebuild. this was worth the trade trans for trans anyways. $320 she should be good as new.

the TJ had almost nothing left but scrap, and i need to split the scrap with my buddy who i traded with. i'll get a few bucks back against the new gears from that. after that it's basically a sound bar i horded and a buggy hood/cowel i threw behind the shed that i have for sale. i guess i did also sell the ECU already.

[MBood82]

the NV3550 had ZERO 2nd gear synchro left, so it needed to come out for rebuild anyways. i had made money off the XJ i parted to get the 3550 too.


OK, that makes a little more sense. Otherwise, the AX15 may be marginally better, but it seemed like you were starting from behind with that example.

[nblehm]

Was that TJ a lake rescue or something?

[Cobound]

Was that TJ a lake rescue or something?

:lol: That's what I wondered too :p

[6DoF]

that damn TJ keeps getting more entertaining! this POS tail housing must have felt left out and now identifies as rusty ... :james:

trying to decide what to do about it.

NP231 i was using is now all back together with the long input shaft for the ax-15, and all new seals. i cut up the exhaust down pipe so i can remake it for the new turbo location. and got the passenger engine mount cut up for reworking for the new hydraulic mounts, along with fitting the new turbo brace. new 2nd n 3rd gears show up today, hopefully get the trans together except the tail housing ... i'd really like this thing running again soon.

https://i.imgur.com/kqsd9Fx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TWtqXvW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OEOIXNa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/19bbRaS.jpg

[xj_man_646]

Are they magnesium or aluminum cases? I don't recall.

Might be able to do a quick spot of TIG on that guy.

[6DoF]

Are they magnesium or aluminum cases? I don't recall.

Might be able to do a quick spot of TIG on that guy.

if i had a tig ... or access to ... or a buddy available within 2wks .... :cry:

[6DoF]

ax-15 is such a great transmission, way up there with the easiest to rebuild. if not waiting for parts would be a short afternoon project.

a coat of 10 year old leftover silver hammered also does wonders for a rebuild :lol:

didn't fix the hole yet ... tail housing is just on there to clamp the RTV of the front case, and for paint. pretty sure i'm just going to JBWeld it tonight, with an RTV top coat before the trans mount.

https://i.imgur.com/u9s0RfA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DlieLMX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FveeAjd.jpg

[6DoF]

all assembled! but back apart again ... totally forgot from back in the day, the soft top jeeps have a different t-case clocking than tin-top. 13deg down for soft, 26deg down for tin. the 231 was hitting the floor :james: you can see the tail housing is cast to accept both patterns. 10deg is even zero hole overlap.

at this very moment the printer it building me a drill jig. i made it for a 12deg drop, 2 lower than the xj would have been factory. should be more than enough crossmember clearance, will help with the front driveshaft angles, and should still be above the crossmember.

https://i.imgur.com/EFPP9yl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7OgndxH.jpg

[6DoF]

that was seriously satisfying to use. 3D printed drill jig, alignment pins printed in that snuggly fit into the current pattern, and printed holes that i tapped for steel thread-in drill guides. factory is a 10deg difference, i made the jig 12deg up or down. so this TJ trans now has a pattern 2deg lower than factory XJ to help with front drive shaft angles, but is still well over top the crossmember. the other pattern would let a TJ owner take an XJ trans and drill it 2deg flatter than factory for more skid clearance.

I'll probably never use it again, but now i have it! ... i need to get it posted on thingiverse

https://i.imgur.com/qtjhe8Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bSV01hX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/g8D3kv1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9M4K7Pm.jpg

[xj_man_646]

I know you mentioned the guide pins and drill guide inserts...what are the other holes for?

That is seriously cool and is not something I would have thought to use a 3D printer for. :rock:

[6DoF]

dual pattern template ... 12deg up or down depending on if you have a soft top or tin top trans.

i fukking love 3D printing!

[xj_man_646]

The thought has come up periodically about getting one. Is the design software for them generally easy to use? I haven't used CAD since 2012.

[6DoF]

in my mind there are only 2 printer options .... the cheap and more set-up intensive ENDOR Creator 3 ... the more spendy, just works every time PRUSA

CAD systems are a learning curve, but you used em before and a quick google will get you YouTube how-to's for anything you wanna manipulate. CREO student is free to anyone if you just tell em you are learning and promise not to sell stuff you design with it. it's easily the most powerfull 3D system, but can be one of the more cumbersome to use. more power, more mouse clicks kinda thing.

[nblehm]

Nice! I made and 3d printed a broken clip for a ford slave cylinder the other day and felt pretty cool :lol:


Edit* I use freecad and have been watching YouTube videos. I have a cheap Ender 3. Was pretty cool to take measurements off the broken clip and print something that snapped into place like factory.

[6DoF]

as i made these new engine mounts ... i started thinking ... why did i make them 1000lb-ft capable :james: i guess if i was really doing that i needed to extend the gussets on the back one down between the bolts, but it'll be fine at 150hp :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/rWxpZfB.jpg

[Cobound]

You know they’ll hold :p

[nblehm]

Sounds like a reason to make more power :lol:

[6DoF]

Sounds like a reason to make more power :lol:

that's the plan! :evil:

[6DoF]

it's back on the road!! and it's soooo much better.

trans swap was a huge win, i think the ax15 gearing even feels better and works more correct with the little Diesel. the rebuild it silky smooth, and the new CORE shifter is absolutely amazing. these shifter are so tight and let you feel exactly where you are. plus an XJ specific stick vs the TJ one is better too.

new hydraulic engine mounts make a noticeable difference at idle for a less vibratty jeep, but i swear actually have a tiny bit more at cruise. still nicer and over-all worth it, they are the correct choice.

vnt-17 from an 04-05 Passat spools great and has to be making more air everywhere cuz the jeep is just less smoky at part throttle. it also saw 26psi. new downpipe is easier to get to and more air around it. even re-routed some hoses and electrical to clean up the engine bay, better access to everything now.

[xj_man_646]

Sounds awesome!