Project CRD MJ:

[Sir Sam]

Reposting for posterity:


Alrighty, as some of you may or may not know a year ago I finally won the bid on a wrecked CRD. Since 2005 I had been bidding on wrecked CRDs and had been constantly outbid even on low prices(like loosing a bid at $2600). Well I was ecstatic that I finally won the bid, the only downside is that the Jeep was for my father not me. We proceeded to fix the vehicle and drive it out to california for him, he has been driving it ever since and has run up over 30k miles in only a year, the little oiler makes a great vehicle for him. Its repair can be seen here:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/libertyrepair.html

Well a little while back now at the beginning of april, and uncannily enough exactly one year after purchaing my fathers Jeep, on my 22nd birthday I purchased an engine that I had found on craigslist. The engine was setup to mate to the NV3550. A plan was formulated and I started looking for an MJ.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/crd_engine/crd_engine6.jpg


Now I had been stalking a MJ at my local insurance auction for a few weeks, well everything worked out just right and today I won the bid on it for $850:
http://www.klode.com/Kws/Napplications/display_pics.aspx?Stockid=882018&Exit=Close
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ1.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ2.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ3.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ4.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ5.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ6.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ7.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ8.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ9.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ10.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ11.jpg

So the project should begin in earnest soon. The CRD engine, with a NV3550 and NP242 will be dropped in. A 4WD front end will be installed, and Dana 44 in the rear. I have the interior/dash out of a 01XJ that will be installed. 97+ doors will be put on as well.(some of these parts to either be sourced cheap from the junkyard, or a parts TJ or XJ).

The Chinese Jeep 2500 front ends parts will be installed, and the whole vehicle will be repainted PR4 - Flame Red. Later 16" FreedomXJ/5.9ZJ wheels will be installed and a shell for camping put on the back.

Jeep 2500 front end:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/content/Jeep2500.html
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/Jeep/2500/stock4.jpg


The tail lights will be the overseas 97+ XJ tailights as seen here(as well as the 16" freedom wheels seen here):
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/images/2000_freedom/freedom20.jpg

[Sir Sam]

This information is just for reference right now:

Since the XJ uses the older CCD bus and my engine/bosch ECU uses the new PCI bus this means that I will not be able to use the XJ 97-01 gauge cluster. All the important information(engine speed, vehicle speed, water temp, oil pressure etc) is carried on the CCD or PCI.

Basically, if you try to use the XJ cluster nothing will work except the basic things like turn signal indicators.

So to that end a very nice solution presents itself. The TJ gauge cluster is the same basic size and shape as the XJ cluster, but the newer TJ clusters use the PCI bus.

To that end a TJ gauge cluster will replace the XJ gauge cluster in my dash, it will require some basic wiring work, if possible I will de pin the XJ connectors and insert the pins where needed into the TJ cluster. This is the best solution because it keeps the stock wiring intact with fewer splices and therefor fewer places for a future failure to occur.

Anyways, here is what will need to be connected for that to work:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/xj_mj_cluster.png

archival post quoted.

[Sir Sam]

More reference information:

For the interior are you planning to make the air bags functional or gut them and use them to make the interior look complete?

I don't see why the entire SRS harness couldn't be transferred over to an older XJ... it's not like anything structural changed. the sensor locations and such should still be valid unless there is some kind of a ECU tie in with the air bag ECU.



Most airbag systems I've ran into have there own computer with them, most of the time you have to swap the srs unit with the bags. I know airbags also require a speed input too, so you'd have to get the wheel speed sensors too, or the vehicle speed sensor.. I dont know which one jeeps use.


The XJ ACM(Airbag Control Module) is a self contained unit that sits under the center console, there are no crash zone sensors as many other airbag systems have, merely the accelerometer/safing sensor located in the module.

There is not a direct connection between the ACM and the vehicle speed sensor, The XJ ACM does use the CCD bus connect, though the wiring diagrams seem to indicate that it connects to the gauge cluster(presumably for the airbag light) and the data link connector(for diagnostic).

Regardless I still have some concern that the ACM will need the vehicle speed information available on the CCD bus. This is a problem because the KJ CRD ECU uses the newer PCI bus.

If the vehicle speed information is needed for the ACM to operate properly then I will use a XJ CCD PCM(basically a 97-01 XJ PCM) connect the 5V supply, ground, and speed sensor signal back to the XJ PCM where needed, and connect the PCM to switched power as needed. This will then take the speed signal coming from the speedo pickup and broadcast it via the CCD bus. Since the vehicle is getting rewired with the PCI bus for all critical functions the CCD will be a secondary bus system that only contains information for the ACM.

So by doing it this way I can ensure that the airbag systems will still remain functional.


archival post quoted.

[Sir Sam]

how did you get all the electronics that you needed?

My engine was a complete engine, with clutch flywheel wiring harness etc.

The only thing that prevents the engine from running right now are the ECU and APPS.

I have sourced an ECU and a guy in the UK is holding it for me while we find me an APPS unfortunatly for me the KJ I got my ECU out of had the APPS stolen.

At worst case scenario I have to spend 100 pounds for a new APPS in the UK.

That's not bad at all. Hell, I spent that on my 3550. I might need you to help me find one.


Colin, you can make your own APPS for about $40. I'm thinking about doing it on the cummins because the stock one blows.

Or just grab an APPS from any number of drive by wire cars, heck toyotas and Jeeps share the same APPS unit now.



So the last bit of engine management stuff I need is an APPS. There is a diesel XJ that I could get the APPS out of, as you can see in the wiring diagram below they only differ by a single pin(which could be moved), the real concern is if the APPS returns the same voltage between the two.
(an Accelerator Pedal Postion Sensor is basically just a big POT=Potentiometer)

Now I could use a 05+ CRD POT, which indecently is shared by newer toyotas, but it would take a good deal more work to ensure I got the right voltage out of the pot.

So for reference:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/XJ_KJ_APPS.png

So even if the XJ APPS does not return the same voltage a variable resistor connected inline could allow me to play around with it so that I got my throttle input right.


Archival post quoted.

[Sir Sam]

Archival post quoted:

Well the tow truck arrived today with the MJ, battery was dead so I had to push it up into the driveway.

Put the battery charger on it and after a few hours it cranked enough for it to catch and startup.

Had the battery charger on all day untill about 6:30, took the charger off, started it once, then shut it off. An hour later I came back and it turned over once or twice and then just clicked.

Ran down to sams club and got a new battery, dropped it in and it fired right up. Moved it back and forth a little bit before backing it out of the driveway and going for a quick spin in my culdesac. Drives just fine, brakes feel a little soft.

Oil on the dipstick looks about 2 quarts overfilled(way overfilled), right now after it runs for a little bit oil just spits out from around the valve cover. I will drain some oil, degrease engine, and then take a look at things.

I saw no evidence of coolant leak when I drove it. Who knows.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ14.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ15.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ16.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ17.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ18.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ19.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ20.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ21.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ22.jpg


Oh ya, and the parking brake doesn't work. Also, it was a trip not to find it next to the center console, I wasn't expecting that.

[Sir Sam]

Archival post quoted:
Getting closer, got some misc connectors and crap I need to tie the CRD harness into the XJ dash harness, though they are slightly different so I will need to trim the plugs to fit. (they have an indexing tab so you can't install the wrong plug in the wrong place, great when you have 3 similar plugs together, not great when you can only find the one plug) I might check and see if I can get some repair connectors from Jeep that will give me the correct plug so I dont have to trim some off the plugs I have now.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ23.jpg

[Sir Sam]

Archival post quoted:

Some more parts arrived:
Hehehe......return home from my early class, looky whats here at the door:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ24.jpg
Now lets get her inside and open her up!
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ25.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ26.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ27.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ28.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ29.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ30.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ31.jpg

Ohhhhh purdy:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ32.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ33.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ34.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ35.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ36.jpg

As you can see its just a normal H3 bulb. I'm thinking H4 Xenons for the headlights, and H3 Xenons for the low beams........hehehehe
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ37.jpg

[Sir Sam]

Archival post quoted:

I decided they would look better out in the sun, so I went and took some more pics. Turns out they are way cooler looking out there:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ38.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ39.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ40.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ41.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ42.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ43.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ44.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ45.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ46.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ47.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ48.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ49.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ50.jpg

[Sir Sam]

Archival post qouted:

Snapped some pics under the MJ today:

Ew, 2wd, gross!
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ51.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ52.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ53.jpg

Some light surface rust on stuff, but nothing structural or cancerous. Might try to get it sand blasted instead of wire-brush-drilled.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ54.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ55.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ56.jpg

The one part of the body where I will need to do bodywork:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ57.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ58.jpg

Testing out the 2500 flares, they basically take up the same amount of fender space that the 97+ flares do, but have a somewhat different "squared off" shape to them.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ59.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ60.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ61.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ62.jpg

We will not be able to use the 97+ flare tie downs without modification:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ63.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Bought this NV3550 for my MJ today for $550:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ64.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ65.jpg
As you can see the bellhousing is broken so I got him down by $50, its the wrong bellhousing for me anyways, pictured next to it is the correct bellhousing for the CRD engine.

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

MJ gets some new shoes:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ66.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ67.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ68.jpg

Got em for $300 locally, wheels are just about perfect, nar a scratch on them....for now.


Got the master/slave combo out of a 96 today, gonna go back on sunday and grab a NP242.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ69.jpg
Here you can see the difference between the 4Liter bellhousing and the CRD bellhousing:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ70.jpg

Got the master/slave, plus a bunch of other junk for $26.

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Got in my indicator lights, APPS, and ECU.

I only need a new injector top and some diesel before I can start this sucker up!

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ73.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ74.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ75.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ76.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Damn you work fast... :)

Good luck on the project! looks promising! :chug:

Not quick enough.

Got me a transfer case out of a 98 today, paid $100 also got the wheel skid plate, and power seat pedistal for a grand total of $130. Not too shabby, I should told him it was out of a 94 and then it would have been $75.

Lotsa junk in my garage:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ77.jpg

All bolted together:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ78.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ79.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ80.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ81.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ82.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ83.jpg

Slave mocked up:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ84.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ85.jpg

A limited lace wheel and transfer skid:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ86.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Ok so these are the engine mounts for a diesel XJ,
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/XJ_diesel_engine_mounts_sm.jpg
then here you can see that while the mounts are similar in design, they do not bolt in the same place, rather they set slighter further back in the engine bay, and utilize some different bolts.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ105.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ104.jpg

Now from what I can see in the pictures of those mounts and from looking at my engine it looks like these mounts might share the engine side bolt pattern, if this is the case then I might be able to get real lucky and just have the motor boltin to the engine bay, boltup to the factory tranny support, and not have to build either of those.

If I am not so lucky(which history would seem to indicate that I am not), then I will not be able to use the engine side bracket, in which case using the XJ diesel motor mounts will probably still be better, they set further back and are almost necessary. It appears that trying to use the gasser XJ mounts will actually interfere with things like the AC compressor, Injection Pump, and Power steering. So right now the plan is to use diesel XJ mounts, and probably have to build my own engine side brackets.

Now something else has come up, if my ECU came from a vehicle with a SKIM(sentry key immobilizer module) then I will either need to get the calibration reset from my ECU, or get a SKIM and transponder key and have both the SKIM and the ECU reprogrammed via the DRBIII to match.

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:
Ok, did a little bit of teardown and started looking at what it would take to get this 2500 header panel to fit.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ106.jpg

So as you can see the 2500 header fits back in a little bit:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ107.jpg
I measure 3.25" deep:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ108.jpg
And I measure 3.25" back from the leading edge of the hood. So basically the header is supposed to sit back flush against the front face of the "headlight bucket" so it looks like I will be trimming off that whole side piece where the fender bracket ties the fender to the "headlight bucket" with the ~.25" gap between the header panel and the hood I think that will be just about right.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ109.jpg
And semi naked:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ110.jpg

[Sir Sam]

Old post quoted:

Started pulling the interior panels out of the MJ, ripped out the carpet tonight, more rust than I was expecting given the outside condition of the vehicle, guess it was that wet carpet syndrome that got to it.

Lucky none of it is through the body, and none of it is even soft, went around and tapped on all the rusty spots with welding hammer, all if it is good and solid, and basically appears just to be a heavily pitted surface rust.

So right now the plan is to wire brush everything with rust on it, then get some POR15 and coat everything well(after I make modifications to the floor for the newer seats to bolt in), then the POR15 will get covered with the sound deadening material.

Anyone have anything else to consider for rust abatement?
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ115.jpg

Here you can see a VERY quick pass(not even 30 secs worth) of wire brush, compared to what it looked like before. I think the wire brush will work well on the surfaces I can get to, its the seam where I cannot get between, or the channel that I cannot get between, that worries me.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ116.jpg
Of course, if this is as bad as it is after 22 years, another 22 years of equally bad rust wouldn't be the end of the world. Who knows, I somehow doubt I will still own the Jeep in 22 years(maybe, thats a long ways off)
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ117.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ118.jpg


I also found a muzzle brake under the carpet, LOL

[Sir Sam]

Old post quoted:

Hehehe, check out what I'm going to pickup:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ127.jpg

I will use one switch for the heated mirrors, one for my foglights, probably leaving 2 extra light switches for accessory lighting. If my diesel ECU has a high idle option I may choose to enable that and get the stock high idle switch.

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Well I had been wondering about what to do for a radiator, and the 4cyl 2.5 radiator seems like it was perfect match....unfortunatly no one seems to make a good replacement radiator for it, only single core, plastic aluminum setups. There are some all aluminum radiators on ebay, but they are single core.

Well this was all moot, I was just going to wait untill I came to that bridge to burn it. The thinking was that I would wait untill I knew for certain what I needed to use for a radiator to order one....I have a good 2 core OEM radiator here from a 2001 6 cyl, that I could use, and I have the crappy old radiator from my MJ I could use for mockup. The problem was, the more I looked at it and the more I measured the more certain I became that I would need to use it. Which left me with the problem that if I did need to use it, there would not be a good replacement option.

Now anyone can spend the time to custom mount a custom radiator, or an off the shelf radiator for something like a YJ/TJ, but since I am faced with enough fabrication already here I am hoping for something that will bolt in.

Now that being said I came across something at the junkyard that is either a windfall, or a white elephant, here we have a nearly new, single core(but thicker than a double core) OEM style radiator, $50 is a little pricey in my mind, but if it works out will be a good solution. If it doesn't well crap, I just wasted $50.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ129.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ130.jpg

Got the windshield removed and safely stored in the basement:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ131.jpg

Got some tie downs off of a ford exploder sport track(and a 8.8 with 4.10s and LSD- all ready sold :rock on: )
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ132.jpg

And of course further probing reveals more rust, what ticked me off about this bit was all the rust was below the seam sealer........ya, the metal rusted out below the seam sealer......grrr, oh well, I got a junk hood that I will raid for patch metal. Fun part is going to be welded in the patch panel with an Arc welder......I got some 1/32" sticks that seem to work OK on sheet metal.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ133.jpg

I need to spend a hour or so cleaning up before I move on with work, garage is cluttered with a bunch of parts strewn around.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ134.jpg

I got these dollys at harbor freight, they actually work really well for rolling the Jeep back and forth in the garage, I would highly recommend them to anyone who thinks they might be useful.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ135.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Got the engine out today, pulled the engine and trans together, and of course, what do I realize as soon as I start pulling the engine......i forgot to drain the tranny, ya, it dumped all its gear oil all over my garage floor.

I swear, thats like the 4th time I have forgotten that. Dammit Dammit Dammit.

so I rolled it outside(easy to push with no engine trans, interior, etc etc) and washed out the garage and also scrubbed down the engine bay. Got it pretty clean, normally I wouldn't bother but it needs to be throughly degreased before I can shoot paint.

Still need to do some other cleanup and tear down before I can shoot paint, though I will probably wait to shoot the engine bay untill later, going to try and get most stuff mocked up, then ripped back out for paint.

this weeks major goal is the get the drivetrain in place so I can move on to mocking up the interior, front end body parts, AC, intercooler, etc.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ136.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ137.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ138.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ139.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Lots of extra metal on the fender that needs to be removed:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ164.jpg
Here you can see the parts of the headlight support that need to be trimmed:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ165.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ166.jpg

This will be my drivers side engine mount, its a engine mount for something, I just grabbed it off the shelf at autozone because it looked close, it has the right height to clear the articulation of the upper control arm. I just wish it was heavier duty looking.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ167.jpg
This is going to be the passenger side engine mount, its very similar in design to the OEM KJ mounts, but it only about 3" tall, the passenger side engine bracket sits up much taller than the drivers side, so I have to use the shorter one on the drivers side.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ168.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ169.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ170.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ172.jpg
This is the Oil filter location, when I got the engine it came with a cartridge style oil filter that stuck way out, it just wasn't going to clear the frame rail, I was worried I wouldn't be able to fit anything and would need to get an oil filter relocation kit. So today at autozone I brought my parts down and started looking at oil filters, of course the larger fram PH8A and the sotck PH16 work, but both are too large, I started grabbing some off the shelf and it looks like the one I picked works perfect, as it turns out it looks like its for the 4cyl XJ/TJs........lucky for me I will actually be able to get this oil filter on and off when the engine installed:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ171.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ173.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ174.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ175.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ176.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ177.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ178.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ179.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ180.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Old part of engine mount bracket cut off, new piece of angle iron tacked on.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ184.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ185.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ186.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ187.jpg

Tacked all the way around:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ188.jpg

I may not be the best welder, but, well........I may not be the best welder.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ189.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ190.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ191.jpg

Look ma, no hands!
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ192.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ193.jpg

Drivers side mount under compression:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ194.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ195.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ196.jpg

So theres that, got the engine mounts done and the engine in place, I need to modify the transmount to bolt now, and then I will need to clearance the rear floor to get the transfer case in place.

Plenty of stuff to be done.

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Worked on fitting the 2500 fenders and headlights:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ197.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ198.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ199.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ200.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ201.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ202.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ203.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ204.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ205.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ206.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ207.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ208.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ209.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ210.jpg

[Sir Sam]

Old post quoted:

updates?

Well peese got me thinking today that maybe I should get back to work. So I started thinking about what I needed to do next which is to get the springs back under it so I can move on with fabbing up the tranny mount.

Well I got to thinking and decided that the D30 is just too weak of an axle to put under the front end with 30.5" tires, so I decided to put a JK Dana 44 front under it. Quick search of craigslist and I went and picked up the cheapest one I could find at $300.

Its missing the passenger side knuckle and the brakes, I will either replace everything thats missing and go back to JK specs, replace just the pass high steer knuckle and try to use D30 unit bearings, or put on WJ high steer knuckles and brakes(cheapest option thus far and keeps the 5x4.5 pattern)

And now I will probably get a 8.8 with 4.10s and LSD for the rear, which is my ideal setup, selectable locker in the front, LSD in the rear. I'll top it off with a TJ locker switch and have everything nice and factory like I like.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ219.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ220.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

It's been over a year, what's the status?

So I picked this up for my MJ CRD project, I need it for a few different things, but since I had it out I decided to take the whole shebang apart! While I was at it I decided to bust out the macro, never really played with it before but I liked the results.


http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm6.JPG

This is the keyless module, it plugs into the side of the BCM, and can be removed pretty easily.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm7.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm8.JPG

This is the BCM its self, it is held on by 4 screws onto the fuse box/junction block.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm9.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm10.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm12.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm13.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm14.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm15.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm16.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm17.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm18.JPG

This is the gut of the junction block, when you take out all the fuses, relays, etc, remove the plastic cover, this is what you are left with:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm19.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm20.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm21.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm22.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm23.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/kj_BCM/bcm24.JPG



The BCM is needed as the VSS signal goes into the BCM, where the BCM is programmed to read the VSS and correlates the revs/mile to the speed. A couple of other things also got through the BCM including the SKIM info(which I won't be using).

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

This is the 96- steering column hole:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ236.jpg

This the 97+ steering column hole, it needs to to cutout and moved obviously. Not exactly sure how I will go about that.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ237.jpg

Here you can see that the newer C101 plug hole, what I will probably do it cutout the donor shape and then use the bolt holes in the older plug to hold the plate in place.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ238.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ239.jpg

This is the older style steering column bracket, it will need to but cutout and the new one(below) welded in.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ240.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ241.jpg

Here you can see the older style heater core hole is a little different, but it'll work.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ242.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ243.jpg

Here you can see the upper dash bolt points are different, not sure what to do about those.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ244.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ245.jpg

This is the older side mount bracket studs/bolt holes, the newer style is below, as you can see there are a fair amount of differences.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ246.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ247.jpg

This is the older style door post latch, this is a little tricky but can be dealt with fairly easily.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ248.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ249.jpg

And this is where I think I will mount the filter head:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ250.jpg

I'm not sure why but I have a filter head with different banjo fittings on it, which won't work in my configuration, so the bent stockers are perfect.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ251.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Steering column/dash bracket cutoff:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ253.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ254.jpg

Lets do this:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ255.jpg

Passenger side bracket welded on(the thin stuff at the top was a *****)
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ256.jpg

I got the drivers side partially welded on then tossed the dash in place to make sure I had measured the right place to weld the brackets on. Looks good to me, dash sits in place like it should.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ257.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Got the steering column bracket in place, modded it to accept one of the existing studs and then welded one from the donor vehicle in place on the side.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ258.jpg

Then I got the lower pivot hole welded in, cut off the factory nut from the donor then drilled a hole and welded the plate in. Still need to do the passenger side.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ260.jpg

As you can see here two of the upper dash bolt holes don't line up, I think I'm going to weld a tab to the existing smaller lip and then drill a hole and move the threaded clip in place, then just use a large washer on the small bolt, this needs to be done on both sides.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ259.jpg

[Sir Sam]

old post quoted:

Got a shell for the MJ, its a brahma which means its kinda cheap, maybe in the future if I find a nice leer that I like I will upgrade, but for now this is fine by me.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ271.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ272.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ273.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ274.jpg

The holy grail of MJ 97+ door panels:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ275.jpg

Scored a set of seats from a 2 door......the seats themselves are pretty much junk, but they have the tilt mechanisms which can be installed into just about every other jeep seat(could install them in heated leather seats for example).
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ276.jpg

[Sir Sam]

I got a wildernest topper last year in august of 2017. And then finally got rid of the other shell on CL. Turns out the old one fit a longbed toyota truck perfect.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_9418.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_9419.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_9421.JPG

[Sir Sam]

New as of 3-NOV-2017:

I ordered a pair of metric ton leaf springs with ~3" or so of lift. Took a long damm time to come in but they finally arrived last night.

I have a set of ruff stuff SUA perches that I will use to mount these up to a KJ 8.25 from my 05 parts CRD.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DEAV-WIYP.html



The 8.25 I am using has a limited slip and 3.73s which is a good match for the CRD powerband.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1172.JPG

[JEEPJERK]

Cool stuff...but your welding does suck. Buy a wire welder.

[6DoF]

holy crap! game on

[FUBAR]

You're taking this to a whole different level. I admire the time, patience and detail in this project. Kudos to you.

[Cobound]

You're taking this to a whole different level. I admire the time, patience and detail in this project. Kudos to you.

Yeah, no kidding! People that question why custom builds cost so much, what goes into them...need to see build threads like this to appreciate them.

Research. Parts acquisition. Labor, list goes on...all, includingSam's welding skills, are being highlighted here!

Keep the updates coming!!

[nblehm]

Man, I tried but that front end is just not for me.

[Cobound]

Man, I tried but that front end is just not for me.

I prefer the '97+ fronts myself, but I can appreciate this being different.

B

[Sir Sam]

I prefer the '97+ fronts myself, but I can appreciate this being different.

B

Like I said back in the day, I wasn't 100% on it untill I saw it in person. I like the 97+ front, but this looks good and its interesting to have something that is still aesthetically pleasing and different.

[Cobound]

:thumbsup:

[Sir Sam]

Rolled the MJ into the garage and started prepping the KJ axle, got the KJ brackets - lower control arm, shock mount, and spring pad cutoff, and I am half done grinding the tube smooth.

Brackets to cutoff:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1356.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1353.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1354.JPG

Spring pad cleaned up:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1361.JPG

Everything cutoff:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1362.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1363.JPG

[Sir Sam]

In preparation for installing the axle I sprayed the leaf springs. They were basically bare steel, or one step above it. So I prepped them by cleaning with Acetone and a microfiber rag. I had a ton of high temp rustoleum black around so I used that, hit the leaves with a bunch of coats of. Might not be the best prep or cleanup or even paint for the long term, but its gotta be better than bare and I'll its under the jeep anyway.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1344.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1345.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1346.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1349.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1351.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1352.JPG

[BanditXJ]

I'm jealous of the Wildernest but this:

Turns out the old one fit a longbed toyota truck perfect.



Now I'm just pissed.

[6DoF]

making a push to get it together? or just passing more time with it? we wanna see it runnin dude

[Sir Sam]

I'm jealous of the Wildernest but this:



Now I'm just pissed.

I thought you didn't like toppers?

making a push to get it together? or just passing more time with it? we wanna see it runnin dude

Not nessesarily a push, I've got plenty of other things to do as well. I need to build a pergola on my patio and a fence before our wedding. I'm hopping around between different projects getting something knocked out if it helps meet an end goal for the wedding. Right now getting the axles under the MJ so it can roll and steer if what I'm trying to accomplish.

Plus with it being cold and now snowy outside I'm a little limited on outside work, so I've been working some more on indoor projects.

[6DoF]

solid plan. the last year before we moved i was in "use what i already bought" mode. i had all these parts on my shelf that i needed to use, but kept getting into new projects. so i finally took the time to install little things, or dictate big projects by clearing my shelves.

[Sir Sam]

solid plan. the last year before we moved i was in "use what i already bought" mode. i had all these parts on my shelf that i needed to use, but kept getting into new projects. so i finally took the time to install little things, or dictate big projects by clearing my shelves.

Yup that's been a bit of my mindset, I hung the doors on the MJ just to get them out of the way, and I need to install the newer style latches now just so the doors stay closed.

I've got a VW door in the backyard I need to install because my other one is dented up. I already did that with the slider door for the van, was just in the backyard in the way so I installed it and scrapped the other one.

Anything like that I can get out of the way is helpful.

[Cobound]

Was gonna chat about this last Saturday but didn't get the time...so many projects, I couldn't keep them straight...AND a wedding :eek:

[Sir Sam]

Was gonna chat about this last Saturday but didn't get the time...so many projects, I couldn't keep them straight...AND a wedding :eek:

Luckily I have the stuff I need to do for a wedding and stuff she is doing so it's not too bad. Plus she's preparing way in advance to its breaking a bunch of things up.

[BanditXJ]

I thought you didn't like toppers?



Only a fool would disparage a wildernest.

I'm not wholly against them as it were, just don't view them as a necessity like people out here are wont to do. If I were to stumble on one like that for cheap, though, I'd give it a whirl if for nothing but the chance to play around with it. Sand it down, try my hand at painting, etc.

[Sir Sam]

Only a fool would disparage a wildernest.

I'm not wholly against them as it were, just don't view them as a necessity like people out here are wont to do. If I were to stumble on one like that for cheap, though, I'd give it a whirl if for nothing but the chance to play around with it. Sand it down, try my hand at painting, etc.

I been looking for a short bed topper since it will fit my coworkers MJ, I've come across a few long bed wildernest for reasonible prices $500 or so. Keep an out and you will find options that come up for sale.

We found a $100 short bed topper awhile back, but it was totally missing the tent.

[Cobound]

I wasn't a topper guy either, but considered them a while back and started searching. Mostly for ease of use, potential sleeping quarters if needed. On the cheap was key for me as well, but nothing I found fit that description and they were non existent used for my vehicle...amazingly, one day I came across one that was more than 1/2 off new, so I quickly snagged it.

No regrets. None. Love it.

[6DoF]

if i found a bubble top capper for the GMC cheap i'd buy it. would be more height than my truck rack inside it, still put a rack on it, more dry storage, and better windage when towing the enclosed.

[Cobound]

No way I could get it in my garage, had to take off my Thule bars just to get in...damn 7' doors :rolleyes: :mad:

[6DoF]

i can't wait to install things like 8ft doors

[Sir Sam]

i can't wait to install things like 8ft doors

8 ft doors. Insulated garage with radiant floor heating and gas fired furnace, and an evaporative cooler for the summer.

My garage could use a total makeover, but I got too much stuff in the way for all these other projects.

I just need to install more parts to get these projects taken care of.

[6DoF]

SAM! SAM! SAM! SAM! SAM! ... gooOOOO SAM!

https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/CkayP4OllG84phhuN9_XDvBImrY=/0x0:2480x2055/1200x800/filters:focal(1312x580:1708x976)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/56373659/usa_today_10215356.0.jpg

[Cobound]

Nice, fitting that it rhymes w/ Rams :lol:

[6DoF]

what's getting put on tonight?

[Sir Sam]

what's getting put on tonight?

Shooting for axle and leaf springs under.

[Sir Sam]

So I made a video showing some things I ran into with the spring......
https://youtu.be/4aUsUiwlxrk

I think I'm going to try and push to have some more videos go along with what I'm doing, youtube recently changed their rules so I am now in a push to hit 1000 subscribers, I have a little over 500 currently.

Shameless plug:
For any of you willing to subscribe please to help me out you can do so by clicking on:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtRd0ADTAvGGaPDYU6MrGIQ?sub_confirmation=1

[Sir Sam]

Old springs VS New.

https://youtu.be/9vq6Y7Ka3p8

I wasn't able to get the axle in, turns out I was shipped the wrong perch, so the axle wont be under it until next weekend I would guess.

https://youtu.be/-lbpswKezQs

[Sir Sam]

Got the new perches, got it in last night. Took a video showing the installed state and a few things about it.

Be forwarned its a little long if you are not planning to swap this axle into an MJ:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcPzZFVUUrs

[freerider15]

Hey look at that, the centerpin bolt heads fit through just fine :chug:

[Sir Sam]

Hey look at that, the centerpin bolt heads fit through just fine :chug:

:chug: and thanks for opening up my hole!

[Sir Sam]

I started removing the seat brackets from the XJ donor metal. I made a how to video for removing the spot welds. This process applies to pretty much any spot weld cutting you are likely to ever do for automotive purposes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLpjFQDPA4s

[6DoF]

nice vid! that's the first i've had a chance to watch

no DeWALT plug? good action shots though lol

[Sir Sam]

nice vid! that's the first i've had a chance to watch

no DeWALT plug? good action shots though lol

I did actually make a comment about DeWalt, but I ended up speeding up that section of video, if you hear the little squeky voice thats my plug there, just before the grinder section.

It took me about an hour to do that video, so I had to speed up and cut down quite a bit of footage to make it watchable length, hopefully it shows enough of the process for people to get the idea.

[Nefarious]

You have a very James May type of calmness to you :roflmao:

[6DoF]

I did actually make a comment about DeWalt, but I ended up speeding up that section of video, if you hear the little squeky voice thats my plug there, just before the grinder section.

It took me about an hour to do that video, so I had to speed up and cut down quite a bit of footage to make it watchable length, hopefully it shows enough of the process for people to get the idea.

doesn't mean ya couldn't go normal speed just for the comment! :roflmao:

[Sir Sam]

You have a very James May type of calmness to you :roflmao:

This was actually very calming, normally I end up doing this **** on the ground but I had just cleaned up so the workbench had less crap on it.

Combined with the fact I decided to make a video means I kinda took my time and didn't have to bend over to do it.

I don't think I even swore once during that whole hour........usually I have to be asleep for that to happen.

Now other times, I'll make an enlisted sailor blush when its not going well.


doesn't mean ya couldn't go normal speed just for the comment! :roflmao:

Just a bunch of random "dewalt" thrown in followed by fast speed.

[Sir Sam]

So I cleaned, brushed, flap disked, primed with self etching primer, and painted the hard to find drawtight hitch I pulled at a junkyard in Feb of 2010 and have been storing for eventual use.

And the sucker sits way too low. Dammit.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1418.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1421.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1423.JPG

So I will look at an aftermarket option that has better clearance with an integrated hitch.

[Sir Sam]

I cleared parts out of the cab and got started on cleaning it up, there was a bunch of nasty rust dust around on the floor.

More than half a decade ago I was cutting out the metal support that will be replaced by the seat bracket, I had just finished with a cutoff wheel and went to take a brake, as I pulled my earmuffs and safety glasses off I realized I had a rather large bit of slag that had gotten around my safety glasses, and melted on the INSIDE of my prescription glasses.

I noped the phuck out of grinding more for the day and left everything sitting there.......for years.

There were piles of grinding dust around, a file, my center punch, cutoff wheels, etc that I left sitting there, and those dust piles turned to rust piles, lucky they didnt continue to eat up the floor, but they made a nice fine coat of rust dust that seems to cleanup pretty easy.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1436.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1437.JPG


So I am taking a wire wheel around, cleaning up the dust crap and vacuuming it out.

I need to finish removing both floor supports to weld in the new seat bracket, cleanup the floor, weld in the seat brackets, and then I am going to coat the whole floor area in por15 and then seam seal it.

So I got POR15, seam sealer, more flap disks, cutoff wheels and copper weld through primer coming! After seat brackets I will finish the firewall holes for steering column/wiring, seam seal those, por15 it, and then interior parts can start to go in!

[6DoF]

and then interior parts can start to go in!

there's no motivation like significant milestone motivation! :rock:

except maybe impending baby ... but that's more fear related :roflmao:

[Sir Sam]

Finished installing the Chevy drop shackles. I got about an inch of lift out of them, I have one higher hole on the shackles I could use, but it won't give me much more lift.

This was the set I picked up, I am pleased with the quality for the price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0106NWAJY


http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1440.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1438.JPG

MJ shackle top(which is longer than an XJ shackle)
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1441.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1442.JPG

The width is a little different. I used giant cresent wrench to bend open the frame side shackle box, put the shackle in, and then bolted it tight. If I were a more patient man I would have pulled the bushing out, shaved down the width of the metal sleeve, and then bushing to make it the correct size.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1443.JPG

Likewise the other end is a little large, I picked up a couple of fender washers to take up space and then bolted it tight, again the nut and bolt pulled it closed some.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1444.JPG

Installed in lower position:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1449.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1450.JPG

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1451.JPG

How it sits now:

About 20" between flare bottom and wheel center. Height is OK. Might end up moving the shackle up once springs settle some.

[Cobound]

Dayum...this just keeps getting better!!!

[Sir Sam]

Dayum...this just keeps getting better!!!

Little bit at a time. I think tomorrow I'm going to try and finish cutting out the old support that is in the way of the seat bracket.

I was thinking if things went ok I would be ready for welding sunday afternoon. I was going to ask freerider to come over and help welding on the thin stuff, but he informed me has plans that afternoon (superbowel apparently) so I'm not sure I'll be ready before he is occupied.



Messed up the last part of that update.

Here is where it sits now:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1453.JPG


Before, with old springs, stock shackles, and SUA d35, and a heavy wildernest on it.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_9418.JPG

[Sir Sam]

I finished cutting off the old bracket and I got the new one trimmed to fit.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1463.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1464.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1465.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1466.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1467.JPG

I finished cleaning up the floor with the wire wheel and flap disked the area where the bracket needs to be welded down. I'll hit them with some copper weld through primer before welding, then follow up with seam sealer and POR15.

[Sir Sam]

I opened up a tube of seam sealer, I had the option to buy brush on or caulk tube, so I went with the black caulk tube. I think I might order some of the brush on and see how it works, I'm nut sure the caulk gun method is always the best for what I need to do.

This image has black seam sealer on black por15, so its a little hard to make out, the short is there is a patch panel, por 15 over the area top and bottom, and then seam sealer over the weld area. The seam sealer came out in in long strands from the tube, so I spread it around evenly with a wood paddle to flatten and smooth. It seems to cover pretty well and the consistency and rubber pliability look good long term. Its a urethane product so it should hold up well long term.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1488.JPG




I dug the body harness out of the mess of stuff in the bed, I need to make some modifications in the rear section. The white plugs in the lower right of the image are usually behind the plastic which is under the spare tire carrier. These plug into the turn signals and factory wiring harness for trailer lights.

The MJ uses a different tail light setup than the XJ - its the same as what the XJ wagoneers had. This is more what trailer lights are like, or older vehicles. So the brake and turn are combined into one bulb.

I need to do some rewire work, including what I will do for trailer lights, and shorten the wiring to sit in the cab as those connectors are not weather rated. Right now I am planning to put them in the drivers rear void space behind where the stock rear speaker sits. Then I will tie that in with the factory plugs to the MJ rear harness that exits through a rubber grommet in the floor.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1487.JPG

[Sir Sam]

Freerider came over and helped me burn on the seat brackets. Note the copper weld through primer I put down. It's a conductive primer so that you don't leave something as bare steel once you weld over it.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1506.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1507.JPG

After that I cleaned the floor with Acetone and got to work with the POR15:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1508.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1509.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1510.JPG

[Sir Sam]

This is my next project, its the TJ cluster I am using for my MJ, I had to order some more equipment for this unit. The 02-06 TJ and 02-07 KJ similar years of WJ have no external eeprom, so the method is a little different.



http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1485.JPG



http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1492.JPG



http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1489.JPG

[Cobound]

Noice!

[Sir Sam]

Got the fuse box in place today and started laying out the interior harness's, The dash harness's and engine bay are easy enough to deal with since they pretty much sit in the same place for the MJ as the XJ. However the body harness is a little different, today I placed it in the cab as is and didn't like how it was working out since the harness was meant to work with the 4 door XJ.

I stripped out the rear door wiring for the courtesy light and power windows, as well as the rear overhead light wiring. I still need to pull out the speaker wiring, rear wiper, and defrost wiring. I also then need to figure out how to arrange the remainder of the rear light wiring. the plugs used at the back of the XJ behind the spare tire will reach part way, but are not weatherproof connectors so they really shouldn't be used under the bed as-is.

I stripped the harness wrap bare so I could move some things around, but I am attempting to avoid a million splices in the harness.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1516.JPG

[Sir Sam]

Short video showing the interior harness work:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1IF-AF5pLQ

[Sir Sam]

Longer video showing the engine bay harness work that needs to occur:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX91ttWpfXQ

[Blue XJ]

I also then need to figure out how to arrange the remainder of the rear light wiring. the plugs used at the back of the XJ behind the spare tire will reach part way, but are not weatherproof connectors so they really shouldn't be used under the bed as-is.

[/IMG]

If I'm not mistaken, when I used the XJ harness on my MJ, I had to make a new rear light harness. The MJ uses the same bulb for tail/turn, where as the XJ has separate bulbs. The harnesses won't just connect and work properly.

[xj_man_646]

I'm glad to be seeing progress on this once again :thumbsup:

[Sir Sam]

If I'm not mistaken, when I used the XJ harness on my MJ, I had to make a new rear light harness. The MJ uses the same bulb for tail/turn, where as the XJ has separate bulbs. The harnesses won't just connect and work properly.

Yup. The MJ light behavior is more like trailer lights are. I'm debating how I want to rewire and convert. I might change the light setup to match the XJs more closely. I have a few thoughts I need to flesh out.

[Sir Sam]

Tested the TJ gauge cluster finally!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpO4isRTThs

However I thought the KJ plugs were the style I needed but it turned out they have more pins than the TJ, so I need to find the same connector type but with fewer pins to fit the TJ cluster.

Grrr, back to the junkyards to raid 15 year old Chryslers.

[Sir Sam]

I will need to do some more testing in the future where I read through the OBDII port with a scanner to show what PSI to oil pressure sensor is seeing, and how that translates to the position on the TJ guage cluster. The TJ cluster is reading oil pressure through the PCI bus from the ECU, and then displaying that as an analog value. The question comes up as the the calibration, when it read "half" what PSI was that? When it went higher to 3/4 what PSI was that?

If you noticed the oil pressure gauge is the only one that does not have any units shown. This is because on the 2002+ TJ the oil pressure gauge is basically just an idiot light! The sensor on the newer TJ is a discrete, meaning it is either open or closed. In theory, when off or no pressure the switch is open circuit, and then when the engine is on and oil pressure is "good" it is closed. This way if your oil pressure drops below "good" or if it fails it should go open circuit. What the TJ ECU does is read this open or closed switch and send a value to the cluster. So the TJ cluster reading from the ECU only sees 0 PSI/bad, or X PSI/good. This means that on a stock TJ the oil pressure gauge either shows zero, or middle. Since the gauge is then basically just an idiot light they removed the units of measure.

However since the CRD ECU does read an analog pressure from the oil pressure sender the REAL psi is transmitted over the PCI bus, and since the TJ cluster is reading a real analog value it drives the gauge accordingly. The only thing left for me is to determine exactly what pressure the middle means, and exactly what pressure the high means.

I am working on a way to read the calibration from the processor onboard, which may allow me to change the scaling factor on the gauge. Likely that will be much further along, I'm just happy the Main functions, fuel level, coolant temp, RPM, and presumably speed all read correct.

In final form this will be wired into the normal dash wiring for the cluster for all functions such as turn signals, lights, 4wd indicator, etc, leaving the obdii port completely open like factory.

[Blue XJ]

Yup. The MJ light behavior is more like trailer lights are. I'm debating how I want to rewire and convert. I might change the light setup to match the XJs more closely. I have a few thoughts I need to flesh out.

I believe I just separated them in the MJ tail light, had one bulb for stop and one bulb for turn. It was the easiest way to go at the time.

[Sir Sam]

I believe I just separated them in the MJ tail light, had one bulb for stop and one bulb for turn. It was the easiest way to go at the time.

Ya I'm looking to get 2 dual filament LED bulbs use the dimmer filament for parking lights, the upper brighter for brake, and the lower brighter for turns.

I'll end up running one of those LED strips below the tailgate to give me some extra lights as well.

Thats about the best plan I can come up with right now.

[Sir Sam]

My coworker came over last sunday to use my pressure washer on his newly acquired wildernest to get it cleaned up, I decided it was a good time to open mine and take a look inside the back of the MJ........I'm find all sorts of parts I forgot where back there.


http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1520.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1521.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1522.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1523.JPG

Fun times ahead! Looking forward to having both MJs out and be camping!

[Sir Sam]

I made some progress on the TJ gauge cluster, I cannot seem to program less than 1000 miles, I suppose thats close enough to zero? I was just really looking forward to seeing it run up from zero. I might keep playing with it, I also want to figure out to reprogram the VIN.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1539.JPG

[6DoF]

are you able to manipulate each digit ... but not all of them to zero at the same time?

[Blue XJ]

Ya I'm looking to get 2 dual filament LED bulbs use the dimmer filament for parking lights, the upper brighter for brake, and the lower brighter for turns.

I'll end up running one of those LED strips below the tailgate to give me some extra lights as well.

Thats about the best plan I can come up with right now.

That's how mine was, although I never got the LED strip mounted. :roflmao:

[Sir Sam]

are you able to manipulate each digit ... but not all of them to zero at the same time?

If I try to program 1-3 digits its like it overflows and sets the mileage to like 1.8 million miles.

So 999 seems to have an issue, but 1000 seems ok. I also cannot enter 000001, I can only enter 1.

This is being done with a chinese tool that supports many different vehicles. The tool is reading the BDM port of the HC912 motorola/freescale/nxp cpu. In theory I should be able to write anything including new program code through the BDM port.

More research is required. I soldered some pins into my gauge cluster for development purposes so I can keep playing. I really just want to figure how to zero the cluster and change the VIN. I'm working to re architect the electrical system in the CRD MJ - I want it to be like factory, and part of that is having the VINs correctly programmed.

If I can get the BDM port to read via terminal on a PC then I think I should be able to find the mileage and VIN in HEX and write those values back via the BDM port.


That's how mine was, although I never got the LED strip mounted. :roflmao:

LOL ya, I know how those things go. I really want as much visibilty on the rear - I'm putting lots of effort into this thing and I don't want some jackass to rear end me because the factory lighting kinda sucks.

[Blue XJ]

It sure does, I was told a few times by buddies behind me on the trail that they could barely see my brakelights. I wish someone made replacement tail light boxes like they do for XJ's, I would have swapped them out back then.

[6DoF]

can you make the odometer say BOOBS on start-up??

[Cobound]

:lol:

[awheelterd]

I haven't read everything but why bother with the tj cluster?

[Sir Sam]

I haven't read everything but why bother with the tj cluster?

Newer TJ cluster uses PCI bus instead of CCD bus which is what the CRD ECU uses.

If I want any gauges to work I need one that reads data on the PCI bus.

[Sir Sam]

can you make the odometer say BOOBS on start-up??

I sure can.

[6DoF]

https://cdn.business2community.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/pics-or-didnt-happen.png

[xj_man_646]

I sure can.

You should probably do that :lol:

[Sir Sam]

Close as I can get, it seems to store the last digit somewhere else, like in flash, and then write that somewhere else once it reachs a value, probably to save on eeprom writes. Eeproms typically have a 100k write lifecycle, having it write only once every 10 miles takes the lifescycle to about a million miles.


Screwed with it several ways and its always a little off, goes from 80085 to like 80089. or something.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1546.JPG

[xj_man_646]

Why is the pic upside down? :lol:

[xj_man_646]

Starting at 800800 would at least let BOOB to be there for a little while :lol:

[6DoF]

:lol:

you win sir :chug:

[Sir Sam]

Why is the pic upside down? :lol:

Smart phones throw rotation tags on images, smart phone can deal with them but web browsers handle them differently, its pretty inconsistent and a pita to deal with at times.

If I take a vertical photo, it will be fine, if I take a horizontal phot one direction it will be fine, if I happen to have my phone 180 from "correct" it will appear fine from my phone but the rotation tag won't get read from the EXIF data by most web browsers.

[Sir Sam]

Wiring work continues on the main engine harness:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1551.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1552.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1553.JPG

Auto trans stuff removed:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IMG_1554.JPG

I gotta start sitting down the with the Xj wiring diagrams and the KJ wiring diagrams to see what I can adapt from one to the other, and what I need to add, like glow plug relays. etc.

[BanditXJ]

Getting even somewhat deep into electrical/wiring **** is where I start feeling like fukkin Simple Jack, anything beyond splicing color to color on a stereo install is when I start getting pretty sure I'm gonna start a fire.

[Sir Sam]

Getting even somewhat deep into electrical/wiring **** is where I start feeling like fukkin Simple Jack, anything beyond splicing color to color on a stereo install is when I start getting pretty sure I'm gonna start a fire.

One wire at a time, and having a full reference document are what it takes.

Things seem easier when you push yourself to do something harder, just like lifting heavy weight makes lighter weight seem easier, stretching knowledge is the same way.

[Sir Sam]

Ordered the JCR DIY rear off ebay with a 20% off, $240 shipped!



https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-MJ-R.html



However the delivery shows April, lets see how long it takes, however there is not a particular rush.

[Sir Sam]

I took a video looking at turbo differences, I guess I'll stick with the original turbo:

https://youtu.be/dCqJu-dNSLM

[6DoF]

you mean for the second turbo?

[Sir Sam]

you mean for the second turbo?

huh?

[JEEPJERK]

remote turbo

[6DoF]

dual spiral mufflers?

[Sir Sam]

Ordered the JCR DIY rear off ebay with a 20% off, $240 shipped!



https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-MJ-R.html



However the delivery shows April, lets see how long it takes, however there is not a particular rush.




So I'm finally getting to the bumper part of this project. Got it bent, tacked, test fitted, and now onto the welding, had Justin over to help with the welding since my welder/me suck and I want it to be presentable.



http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1381.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1383.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1385.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1387.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1389.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1391.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1393.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1395.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1397.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1399.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1401.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1409.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1411.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1413.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1415.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1417.jpg

[6DoF]

haha, NICE!! what camera are you using? besides just a FLIR

[Sir Sam]

haha, NICE!! what camera are you using? besides just a FLIR




FLIR E60.......any ideas that would be cool?

[6DoF]

edit: moved to your FLIR thread :lol:

[Sir Sam]

Justin helped me finish the bumper welding yesterday. Just in time too.


Took a video while welding one of the end caps:
https://youtu.be/5BxyG-z_26E

[Sir Sam]

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1521.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1523.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1525.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1527.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1530.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1532.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1534.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1536.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1538.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1540.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1542.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1544.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1546.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1548.jpg

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1550.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1552.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1554.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/IR_1556.jpg