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#41 |
old and boring
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 34,139
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Very similar to what Matt recommended(probably same factory in China....) but I put these in the TJ and have been very happy with them. Nice and bright but still have a good cutoff so I don't get people flashing their high beams at me. They came with the JK pigtail too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5XYW5ML...n_title_1&th=1 |
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#42 |
old and boring
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 34,139
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#43 |
Jeeper wannabe
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I've got about 40 miles on it now. It shifts really nice now. I'm guessing all the weird grease in the shift tower needed to be washed around a bit? Like it's actually really easy to get into reverse.
I'm on the fence about the Oracle tail lights. I feel like for what they cost the side markers should have been illuminated. They also aren't a huge difference between tail and brake for brightness. I've tried a couple headlights and so far I don't like either. I think I've been spoiled by the projectors on my other vehicles. I also want something that doesn't look like I've been shopping on temu. The passenger seat belt buckle/pretensioner was a circus. I had ordered one from Baseline 4x4 used... (spoiler: and it was bad also). So that sent me down the road of tracing wiring when the new one didn't work worse (mine the pretensioner was fine but the buckle was toast). Found that random assholes had stuffed probes that were too large in sockets so I fixed that. Then I tried to find where the wires went... well, the pretensioner goes to the occupant restraint controller under the center console. The one for the seat belt buckle goes to the lower connector in the kick panel. I found that had been abused by bigly probes also, but I just bent the pin and it was fine the whole time. I am not impressed by the mexican company that built the wiring harness. I ordered a new seat belt harness, but didn't use it. So if someone needs a 2011-2018 JK passenger seat belt harness... I have one. Most of the connectors had the stupid bridging tabs, and two of those were messed up also. I removed them. Anyway, that didn't fix anything. Plugged my old one back in, same problem I had when I started. Pretensioner good, buckle indicator bad. So I sat there with a scope for even longer and figured out that I could fool the pretensioner with a 2.2-2.4 ohm resistor and the seatbelt buckle hall effect sensor with a ~3900 ohm resistor. ![]() I cut up the connectors and made a hilljack stack of resistors to fool it so I could drive it around thinking at least the driver's side airbag would work. ![]() So I complained to Baseline4x4... twiced... and they refunded my money like a week later. I think they forget to monitor their inbox. Anyway, so then I ordered another one from them, with a coupon this time saving me like $20, and it came the next day. Finally put it in today... and no more lights. It's nice to have everything working. I dropped the tire pressure down to 26 and 24psi and while it rides nicer now it doesn't return to center as well. Also today, a 100lb soaking wet in a snowmobile suit lady dropped this off for it, I felt kind of bad not helping but I was in the middle of putting polyurethane on my floors: ![]() |
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#44 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 17,122
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dang ... you spent WAY more time on that harness than i would have. i'd have ripped it all out and never looked back, scratched that LED off the cluster
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#45 |
Jeeper wannabe
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I kind of wanted to get everything working before I started messing with it too much. It's supposed to be our towed vehicle so having something be too sketchy is not ideal.
The time consuming part was how the Chrysler clowns decided to switch colors at every connector. As a partially colorblind person, this is just cruel. I have a hard enough time with blue/green/gray and then when they switch them around on each side of the connector it is infuriating. In 50 years when the aliens come to pillage the earth for minerals, they're going to be looking for Jeep JKs to mine for copper. There is so much wire going every which direction it's amazing. And whoever builds the harnesses for them, buries extra wire in the bundle by doubling it back. Nice thing is that they're so sloppy that they don't wrap everything in tape so you don't have to look that hard to figure out what is going on... I added to the wiring mess by adding home runs of 12awg for each speaker and I ran 2 sets of RCAs to the back in case I swap the head unit out someday for something with two subwoofer channels. The difference is I labeled it all since I have a Brady labeler and self-laminating labels for wire. I'm now waiting for my Maximus-3 winch mount and tow loops to show up. Last thing I need for it to be ready to be towed. |
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#46 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 17,122
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fawk i'd love to get a real wire label printer ...
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#47 |
I run this joint
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 136,751
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That winch is baller man, nice!!
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#48 |
Jeeper wannabe
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Brady M710 is what I recommend. It uses the more affordable newer cartridges. The two I have take cartridges that are stupid expensive because it's old school. I mostly use the self-lam ones for wires and then they make some chemical-resistant (for lab use) ones that I also use. Those are really handy. Then some normal 1/2" and 3/4" continuous UV-stable tape.
You can get many other label makers that are cheaper, but the cheaper ones you pretty much always end up using with a laptop because it sucks ass to build the label on it. https://www.bradyid.com/label-printers/wire-cable I'm pretty excited about it. Those VR EVOs I bought are kind of slow at no load and the 8274 I bought is a bit fast and kind of chonk. What really sold me on it was the electric clutch so no one can steal my ultrahook while at the strip mall |
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#49 |
Jeeper wannabe
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I finally drove it to work for once. Promptly found out the rear door windows and locks don't work so that's fun I get to investigate. Door wires are connected so...
When I got to work, I immediately drove another person's NSG370 in a lifted Sahara Unlimited and can confirm the Dorman shift tower is definitely worth getting if you have any complaints about the stock one. Anyway, after driving it... 6th gear is kind of pointless. The speedometer is the same for both the 255x75 and the underinflated 285x70. 5th gear at 80mph is 4000rpm and 6th gear is under 3000. You can accelerate in 6th gear but there isn't enough snot to overcome the barn door aerodynamics. I'd like to see why the dyno sheet is on these motors. I bet it looks like horse **** below about 1800rpm. Looks like gears are cheap for it, but would that make first gear worthless for street driving? ![]() |
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#50 |
AKA: jeepnski
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 17,122
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110% those jeeps need deeeep gears to use 6th anywhere but 80mph down hill.
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#51 |
I run this joint
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 136,751
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I'm running 35s (315s) on the stock 4.10 gears with the 6MT and would love at least 4.56s if for no other reason than making first gear *more* useful around town. If first gear itself was lower, I probably wouldn't feel a need to regear honestly.
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#52 |
Jeeper wannabe
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Right now with the baby 33s (probably closer to 32s at the pressure I have them at) First gear lasts about a full rotation of the tire before I shift into second. I can pretty easily start off in second gear.
I'd probably put 4.88s in it, anything less than that doesn't feel like it's worth it? If it weren't for the fact that my in-laws might use it, I'd probably do 37s, no lift, and 5.13s. Yesterday I drove it to work again, and took my laptop with me for my own curiosity. It's pulling a ton of timing out so I think at the end of this tank I'm going to switch to premium and see if it is better. Right now there is probably old winter gas from November or so in it and it's ****ty winter gas anyway. |
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